Kent Kenya Trip Update #4 - Masai Mara

Flying into the Masai Mara I was amazed how green it is for late October. It's supposed to be brown and barren, but some of the "short" rains came early. Even better, tens of thousands of wildebeest are still here, having delayed their southward trek to Tanzania's Serengeti National Park.

In addition to the wildebeest, the Masai Mara boasts the most animals of any park in Kenya, both in terms of variety and sheer numbers. It remains the must-see park in Kenya, despite some issues with overbuilding and land conservation.

This morning, for instance, we saw a lion pride, tens of thousands of wildebeest, zebra, gazelle, topi, elephant, bat eared fox, eland, hippos, huge crocodiles, and a mother cheetah and cub. We were hoping to witness a river crossing, but the herds did not cooperate as is often the case. There is plenty of evidence of past crossings though, in the form of carcasses and skeletons.

On this trip I stayed at Mara Plains Camp, just outside the main reserve on the Olare Orok Conservcancy. In short, this is Masai-owned land where they have agreed to leave it for the wildlife in return for concession fees from the three safari camps located here. The camps get a great area to conduct safaris and the communities get much needed funding, employment, and assistance with cattle feed during the lean months.

The rooms are very good - call it casual luxury. The food is delicious - just try the butternut soup recipe we'll post in our next blog to see for yourself. The hosts are friendly and accomodating. And it's within an hour's drive of the Mara River to view river crossings if they are happening. All in all a good place.

Photos courtesy Kent Redding

Kent's Kenya Trip Update #3 - Matthews Range & Laikipia

The further north you go in Kenya, the drier and harsher the landscape becomes. But it is also home to great wildlife and interesting cultures like the Samburu, Boran and Turkana.

From Samburu, we traveled to the Matthews Range in Northern Kenya. From Nairobi, Kitich Camp is a few hours flight or an all day and very arduous drive; there are no scheduled flights. This simple but comfortable camp has 6 tents with al fresco bucket showers and long drop toilets. It is set in a valley along a bubbling brown stream. The camp is in a lush forest but the landscape driving in is desolate and dotted with very poor Samburu villages...it feels like the end of the Earth. The only activity is hiking in the forest where you can see birds and elephants. It's definitely not for everyone, but is most appropriate for walkers, birders and those looking to get way off the beaten path.

Loisaba, my next stop, is in the Laikipia area. There is not always so much game here, but it's pretty country and there are lots of activities to choose from including gentle rafting (water levels permitting), horseback and camelback rides, ATV ($100 per hour), walks, mountain biking and more.

Although I am not a big horse person, I really enjoyed my sunset ride yesterday. The horses are well looked after and gentle. They do 1-3 hour rides. We saw zebras, oryx, hartebeest, giraffes and more. Guides say they see lions with frequency. Overall, Loisaba is a good chice for anyone wanting a break from vehicle-based game viewing. They are also doing quite a bit with local communities.

Loisaba Main Lodge has fantastic views toward Mt Kenya and is colonial in style. It has seven rooms, a great pool, plus tennis court, gift shop, etc. Two "sky bed" locations offer guests the opportunity to sleep under the stars (and a moquito net) on beds that roll out onto verandas. The wheels are crucial, as I discovered last night when it rained! They are treehouse style platforms with very steep ladder stairs to get up. They have bucket showers and flush toilets. Loisaba Cottages are very nice, with a great pool and nice view. It's booked on a sole use basis only and sleeps 10 or more but I would say 6-8 comfortably in three chalets plus a loft in the main house.

Next up: The world famous Masai Mara.

Photos courtesy Kitich Camp, Kent Redding and Loisaba Lodge

Kent's Kenya trip update #2

After a visit to Joy's Camp in Shaba, we drove two hours to nearby Samburu National Reserve. I have been to this great park a number of times and it never fails to disappoint. Hit hard by a flash flood in March, (check our March blog archives for that story), the park and most of its camps and lodges have recovered nicely. One of the main bridges is still being repaired making tranfers a bit longer than usual.

Samburu is in the homeland of the Samburu people of north central Kenya. Dressing colorfully like their Masai cousins to the south, they are great hosts and guides. On our first game drive we spotted lions, a small leopard, elephants, gerenuk, Grevy's zebra, Somali ostrich and much more.

Our lodging, Saruni Safari Lodge is located about 45 minutes outside the park on a 220,000 acre Samburu community ranch called Kalama. Sitting atop a granite hilltop, it offers incredible views of the surrounding bushland, and on a clear day, the Matthews range and Mt Kenya.

Saruni is undoubtedly the most luxurious lodge in the area. With just four chalets that accommadate up to 12 guests in total, it is both elegant and comfortable. The rooms are huge and each sports a bathtub, outdoor shower, deck and sitting room. Should you visit, bring your appetite because the food is fantastic. At lunch, I took a second helping of the delicious caneloni not realizing it was just the first course (Saruni is Italian owned). Next, there was a tasty lettuce and avocado salad, snow peas and tomatoes, plus a fantastic warm chicken, carrot and potato salad with peanut sauce. There was sorbet for dessert with choice of tea, coffee or espresso!

From Saruni game drives, night drives, nature walks, and village visits are all avaible. The guiding is good and the hosting excellent. Overall, it's a great place, though not ideal for those with mobility issues as the paths are long and steep with lots of steps and sharp drop-offs.

To plan a visit to Joy's in Shaba, check out our Unforgettable Kenya Safari. We have a special of $500 off per person on Unforgettable Kenya for most 2011 departure dates! To visit Saruni Safari Lodge and take advantage of all its fantastic offerings, call us so that we can plan a customized safari for you.

Photos courtesy Saruni Safari Lodge and Kent Redding

Kent's first report from Kenya

To be certain we can plan the best trip for each of our clients, we at AAC travel to Africa several times each year to visit a variety of accommodations and to get the latest information. Kent is presently in Kenya visiting the top wildlife areas and various lodges. He's had an interesting start to his trip. Without further ado, here's the latest - straight from Kenya!

I have been on safari so many times. I can pack for safari in my sleep. I could practically fly there myself if I needed to. But things were very hectic before leaving this time. Work was hectic. My wife Kelly was out of town and I had our two small boys on my own. My dad had surgery...

Now it's 6:15 a.m. in Lewa Conservancy and the sky is turning shades of orange, pink, yellow and blue and my troubles have washed away. Emerald spotted wood doves are calling, "work har-der, work har-der, work har-der." It's another beautiful African dawn and I am enjoying the strong coffee with hot milk that was delivered to my tent a few minutes ago.

Yesterday was a good safari day. Lewa Downs, as many people still call it, is a 64,000-acre private conservancy just north of Mt Kenya in central Kenya. It is home to the largest concentration of black rhinos in the world and boasts more than 110 rhinos after also counting the white ones. It has three subspecies of giraffe and more than 20 percent of the world's endangered Grevy's zebra. The reserve also has abundant elephants, lion, leopard, plains zebra, buffaloes, and cheetah (our group saw three brothers on a eland kill).

Being a private reserve, guests can enjoy game drives, night drives, horse and camel-back rides and walks. This afternoon, we went on a great game walk through the rolling hills, plains, and valleys of Lewa. We saw elephants, bushbuck, impala, zebra and buffalo, but not too close. We hiked a tall hill for stunning views and a sundowner, then drove back to camp for a piping hot shower and a delicious steak dinner. All in all, it was a good day.

In addition to Lewa safari camp there are other more upscale accommodations - Lewa House, Sirikai, and Lewa Wilderness Trails. For more info on Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, visit their website. You can find a sample Kenya safari itinerary including a Lewa visit here.

Pre-Safari Tips

1. Read your itinerary carefully, paying close attention to the dates before booking your flight! When you reserve your flights, have somebody else double check them, or have us book them for you.
2. Pack a week or so before your safari. That way you won't be rushed and forget anything important like your camera battery. It also gives you time to buy last-minute items.
3. Pack really light. Besides having to comply with baggage weight restrictions you really don't need all that stuff anyway.
4. Check that your passport is valid for six months after your arrival date and that there are several blank pages left.
5. Bring comfortable shoes. I have ditched my sturdy hikers for a pair of comfortable (and stylish!) cross trainers.
6. Bring Ambien or another sleep aid and take it right away if you wake in the middle of the night.
7. Read up on your destination before you go. It will enhance your experince.
8. When flying, ask about upgrades or the availability of better seats. I upgraded to 'enhanced economy' on British Airways from London to Nairobi for about $150 after asking at the transfer desk. It was a "last-minute special."
9. Bring an elastic exercise band. They are small and light, take up very little space in your bag, and enable you to work out in your tent.
10. Bring snacks. They are nice to have on long flights, espeially if the meal is particularly bad. Be sure to finish them before checking in to your first camp however; you don't want to keep food in your tent!

Kenya Family Adventure!

Kent is off to Kenya this week, so while we await stories of his exciting adventures, a deeper look at one of our Kenya trips is in order.

On our Kenya Deluxe Family Safari, you can enjoy a first-class adventure with your family. You will visit two fantastic wilderness areas in Kenya; the world renound Masai Mara, as well as the lesser known, more exclusive Lewa Conservancy. There are exceptional wildlife viewing opportunities on this trip, as well as cultural activities. Additionally, you can partake in walking and horseback adventures. The focus isn't only on the activities, however. The accommodations and the food will keep you happy, too!

Your first stop after Nairobi will be in the Lewa Conservancy where you will met by your private guide at the airport and taken to your lodge. Lewa Wilderness is one of Kenya's oldest private safari experiences. The family home accommodates up to 18 guests in comfortable thatched cottages with ensuite bathrooms and verandas. The food is wholesome, ranch style and organically grown. For forty years guests have been visiting this remarkable region to be part of an adventure like no other.

Lewa sits in the shadow of Africa's second highest mountain resulting in a perfect climate, with warm days and cool nights. The plains and valleys are full of unique and endangered animals, and the people at Lewa Wilderness are delighted to play a part in their survival. They have a unique partnership with local communities and there are a wide range of activities and adventures to discover in both comfort and style. When you aren't enjoying game drives, horseback riding, walking safaris or a visit to the furniture workshop, you can spend time by the pool or playing tennis on the clay courts.

After your stay at Lewa, you will fly to the Masai Mara. Imagine your own house in the bush, right in the very heart of one of Africa’s most famous and game rich areas...a bush home that is ideal for a couple, family or group, where the wildlife comes right to the waterhole outside of your front door and you decide how you would like to pass your day.

Acacia House fits the bill and offers flexibility, exclusivity and, even better - the freedom to personally design your own day-to-day safari itinerary in the Masai Mara while enjoying the seclusion of your very own private lodgings. Your unique adventure is complimented by the detailed personal service and unequalled wildlife expertise. Acacia House is fully catered and guided by some of the most talented guides in Africa.

This adventure will allow you to have a unique safari experience in Kenya, whether with your family, a small group, or as a couple. We can customize this or any other itinerary to suit your needs. Call us if you'd like to plan your own family adventure!

Photos courtesy Kent Redding and Nomadic Encounters

Autumn pumpkin recipe from Phinda in South Africa

Phinda Private Game Reserve chefs have lots of tempting treats on offer, and this one is perfect for autumn! This is their version of pumpkin soup, a very common recipe in Southern Africa.

Pumpkin Soup Every Which Way

Start with pumpkin, peeled and cubed, then simmered until soft in a good chicken stock with leeks and a couple of potatoes. Puree when all vegetables are cooked through, then serve hot or cold, depending on the season. For fun and variety, you can add any or a combination of the following:

apples, pears, orange zest and juice, ground cinnamon,

ground cumin, ground coriander, a touch of chilli, fresh

ginger or a splash of basalmic vinegar

If you would like to visit Phinda, we are currently offering a fantastic special where you can stay 4 nights at Phinda or seven other tremendous South African safari lodges located in the some of the country’s premier game reserves, and indulge in the scenic beauty of Cape Town with 3 nights at The Taj Cape Town, and get one night free at each.

With this terrific special, you can indulge in ...

Thrilling twice-daily game drives that delve into the African bush in search of the Big Five and other exciting wildlife encounters

Spectacular views of the infamous Table Mountain with a guaranteed mountain facing room at The Taj Cape Town

An indulgent, complementary 45-minute Indian head or foot massage at The Taj Cape Town's Jiva Grand Spa

Complimentary transport to the bustling V&A Waterfront, with its wide selection of attractions, during your stay in Cape Town.

This exceptional offer is valid for travel from 15 October 2010 to 30 September 2011, but hurry as space is limited! Call us now to check availability, learn more about the lodges and to help plan your South African adventure!

September Mara Game Report - part 2

September Game Report, Masai Mara, Governors' Camp - Part 2

As promised - here is our predator update for the Maasai Mara, courtsey of Governors' Camp.

The core part of the Marsh Pride of lions have been happily lazing around the Musiara Marsh area this month. The pride is basically divided in two; the two males Romeo and Claude and four females, three of which are with young having three cubs each. The fourth female was sighted mating with both males at the start of the month, Romeo dominating as Claude the older lion is not in great condition. The sub-adult group are spending their time up near Mbila Shaka and on occasion come down to the marsh. There are five males and four females together with a lioness, Lispy. Lispy towards the end of the month came into season and ventured down to the marsh and picked out Romeo, a good choice, and commenced mating. The Marsh Pride have been hunting at night. The sub-adult males took down the old buffalo bull outside of Governors' Camp which was a fair accomplishment even though he was in retirement and a little worse for wear. One of the more spectacular sightings seen below the marsh bridge was all of the sub-adults trapping a large male waterbuck in the water. The waterbuck held his own, facing off any attempts that were made toward it by the lions surrounding him. This started at dawn and went until well after lunch when the waterbuck bolted once the lions lost interest and lay watching.



The Ridge Pride is still doing well, staying up on the ridge where the wildebeest have been. They too had an interesting development; whilst on a walk the three lionesses and four cubs came across a mother cheetah and her two adult cubs which they promptly chased for a while. In their excitement they had not noticed the kill which the cheetahs had to leave in a hurry, but wandered on. They then spotted a hyena which had just killed a young wildebeest and chased him of his meal and settled into their easily won prize.


The Paradise Pride is in great shape. Dominating a territory that encompasses the main crossing areas means they have food coming to them instead of having to pursue their prey. However they choose to hunt at night and relax during the day, very rarely is this pride seen hunting during the day. The pride across the Mara river from them is very different. Often seen at the crossings hiding up in the croton bushes, they ambush the unsuspecting hoards of animals that have just tired themselves out swimming through the rapids. On one occasion a single lioness killed five wildebeest.

Notch has been seen on both sides of the river with his two prides, where his five sons have split and are seen east of the river up in the Croton bushes.

We have mostly seen the three cheetah boys this month who are not short of female admirers as other cheetahs have moved on.



There has been one female cheetah and her two nearly fully grown cubs near double crossing, she did come to Rhino ridge but was chased off by the Ridge Pride. This is probably why she spends her time further away.

One other female cheetah has been seen near the Talek River, once walking right by Olive the leopard.

Olive is still as relaxed as ever, giving guests amazing views of her near the Talek River in the Croton bushes. Her two cubs have moved on, leopards are not very tolerant of their cubs once they come of age, there are very rarely any free meals once they leave home. The two cubs are sticking together for the moment, they need to build up their confidence before they secure territories of their own.

The young male leopard from Olives' previous litter is in a neighbouring territory, he has been spotted a few times, once dragging a fresh wildebeest kill across the ground into cover.



The Il Moran leopard near Governors' has rarely been seen as the Marsh Pride is so incumbent and she has retreated to the forest. A male leopard was sighted along the forest near the Little Governors crossing. Whilst waiting for a crossing one of our vehicles saw a female leopard being chased out of the adjacent bushes by baboons creating mayhem amongst the mounting herds of wildebeest. Once everything had calmed down, what presumably was an older cub ran out in pursuit of its mother and stirred the wildebeest into another state.

There are a couple of jackal dens up on the plains in old termite mounds, the youngsters are nearly fully grown but still dependant on their parents. At one site hyenas tried to dig out the young whilst the adults were running in and nipping at their behinds, the hyena soon ran off.

We also had two sightings of caracal in September which was very lucky, one mother had cubs too.

With high season well underway the camps have been as busy as ever. We have also had wonderful sightings of game in camp with elephants putting in regular visits to all camps, much to the delight of guests. Elephant families have been making a habit of turning up at Little Governors' Camp at lunchtime leaving camp staff to escort guests to a safe distance away to view these magnificent animals as they pass through camp!

If you'd like to visit Kenya, or Governors' Camp and all of its amazing wildlife, call us to start planning your trip!

Photo credits:
Waterbuck and lion standoff courtesy of Daryl Black
Three cheetah brothers courtesy of Samuel Kiplangat
Leopard courtesy of John Knott
Jackal pups courtesy of Alex Millar

September Mara Game Report

September Game Report, Masai Mara, Governors' Camp - Part 1

Weather and the plains

September saw a fair amount of unseasonal rainfall through the month, filling up the Musiara Marsh. The water came gushing under the bridge to the airstrip and on to the Mara River. The Mara River has been consistently high, mostly due to rain at its watershed in the Mau forest. The temperatures have been very pleasant, rising to a maximum of 30 Celsius around mid day. After gorgeous mornings, it has mostly become overcast in the afternoons and raining on the odd day.







Storm over the Mara courtesy of John knott

The grassland plains have been mowed down by the migration, leaving a bright green thick mat with the unpalatable dried stalks left standing, giving the impression of dry grass from a distance.

The Wildebeest Migration

We have had one of the best migrations seasons ever! Dense concentrations of wildebeest and zebra have covered the plains. The herds have tended to group together at night, spreading out as the day progresses to dot the grassland. Similarly to the end of August hundreds of thousands of animals were to be seen from Governors camps looking out onto Rhino Ridge and to the east. Mid month they started moving around and over the ridge but returned again to The Marsh. The river crossings have been plentiful in September, from a few zebras to a few thousand wildebeest. The fat, ancient crocodiles still take the odd animal as they cross the Mara River, but are mostly content to watch from the sand banks as they have had their full. The river is littered with carcasses from panicked animals drowning because of the large numbers, high water and difficult exits. This is in stark contrast to last year's crossings where they mostly skipped across the river as it was so low, the crocodiles had to work hard for their meal then.


Wildebeest migration herd disturbed
by leopard courtesy Justin Grammaticas

Elephant and giraffe have avoiding the masses of wildebeest and zebra, with the occasional elephant family coming to the forest every few days or so. They are to be mostly found up in the acacia woodland areas at this time, where they are feeding. The large buffalo herd with their young still frequent the marsh and return up onto the ridge, the bachelor males looking from a distance resigned to the fact they are not wanted. With the bursts of rain and the promise of more, and the charge of greenery in the Mara many of the antelope herds have been mating. The males were seen rutting and asserting their territories, once the lines have been drawn and lesser males placated, they then get on with the business at hand. Gestation periods range mostly according to the size of an antelope, the smaller gazelles and impala approximately 6 months whilst the larger waterbuck and topi 7 - 8 months. This instinctual timing coincides with the seasonal rains that commence toward the end of March, giving the young new lush grass to graze on and taller grasses to hide in.










Elephant family courtesy Justin Grammaticas

Beautiful wild flowers have started springing up amongst the shorter grass, 'tissue paper' flowers Cycnium tubulosum, fireball lilies Scadoxus multilorus bringing a contrast of red to the plains as well as the pyjama lily Crinum macowanii with its white and purple stripes.

Dung beetles of all colours and sizes are busying themselves attempting to clear up what the wildebeest have dropped. Termites take this mammoth job on too.

'Flying ants' termite reproductives have taken to the sky to pair up and start new colony's. Timed with the rains so the earth is soft they dig down to start a new kingdom. They are a delicious meal to a lot of animals as they are packed proteins to sustain themselves whilst they create workers - birds, aardvark, aardwolf, bat-eared fox, mongoose and more all eat them.

The resident baboons are spending a lot of their time along the roads as the runoff from the rain has produced thick new nutritious shoots which they are feeding on. They will sit for hours near the roads providing great entertainment.

Game Report courtesy Governors' Camp. Stay tuned for part two, with updates on the area's big cats! If you'd like to visit Governors' Camp and all of its amazing wildlife, call us to start planning your trip!

Sauti za Busara Music Festival

Thinking of a visit to Tanzania? If you visit in February and plan a relaxing stop in Stone Town, you might be able to catch the Sauti za Busara Music Festival. The 2011 festival dates are the 9-13th of February, and you will see Stone Town come alive with the sounds of African music. 40 musical groups from throughout Africa will play during the festival, and you can also enjoy the carnival street parade, as well as 'Busara Xtra' fringe activities.

The festival is billed as 'the frendliest festival on Planet Earth'. You can check out festival details here. Don't forget to consider a safari on the mainland while you're there. Tanzania has so much to offer, from traditional camping safaris to luxurious journeys, as well as beautiful beaches and pristine wilderness areas, and when you visit, you will see some of the most amazing wildlife on earth. Call us to talk about options and to start planning your visit!