Mahale Mountains National Park - Part 1

Mahale Mountains National Park in western Tanzania consistently ranks as one of the favorite places to visit in Africa amongst the staff here at Africa Adventure Consultants. It is without a doubt one of the most beautiful. This hidden gem is tucked away on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, its crystal clear waters reflecting the mountain range that starts just beyond the beach.

The park is best known for its chimpanzee trekking. It's a stone's throw from Gombe where Jane Goodall did her pioneering research, however it is 30 times larger than tiny Gombe. The chimpanzees are well habituated to human visitors, though with the size of the park you might sometimes have to do some serious hiking before finding them.

At the tail end of my trip to East Africa in December, I was lucky to spend four nights at Greystoke Mahale, which is now on my 'favorites' list, too. It's not an easy place to get to. After about 4 hours flying time from Arusha (depending on number of stops and routing), you'll reach Lake Tanganyika. From there, you'll board a dhow for the 90 minute boat ride to the camp, which on a calm day is a relaxing and visually stunning experience.

During my stay, there were only six total guests at Greystoke. We had varying fitness levels, which came into play when chimpanzee trekking. We were greeted at the airstrip by our guide Kakae, who accompanied us to camp. We had flown through some storm clouds en route, but the sun was out when we landed, and the waters were extremely calm. Lucky for me, as I don't have the strongest 'sea legs'. A multi-course lunch was served on the boat, complete with cold beverages.

Greystoke is set on a sandy beach and looks like a dream camp on a fantasy island. Thatched roof wooden bandas are exotic looking, but perfect for this remote paradise. With only six very private bandas, it feels like the most exclusive of retreats. The bandas as very well appointed with a four poster bed, a porch, a vanity and closet area, and a running water bathroom in the back. As an added bonus, there's a lounge upstairs (and the stairs are pretty unique!).

The bar area is tucked away in vegetation on a rocky outcropping; perfect for watching the spectacular sunsets over the lake. The food and service are the icing on the cake. More on that later! I would not recommend this property for anyone that might have trouble getting around, as it requires navigating sandy beaches and narrow stairs both day and night. Additionally, chimp trekking does require a moderate level of fitness, and can be strenuous, depending on where the chimps are located on the day you are trekking.

As our boat came in to shore, we were greeted by a large number of the staff and made to feel instantly welcome. After we were oriented to the camp's workings, our first afternoon was all relaxation. We had a swim in the placid waters of Lake Tanganyika (the staff will tell you when and where it is safe to swim) and enjoyed thumbing through the primate books in the library overlooking the shores. Dinner was a communal affair and they accommodated my dietary requests, which meant I got fish...from the lake...yum!!

Next up: chimpanzee trekking

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

Events in South Africa - March 2011

EVENTS & FESTIVALS : South Africa, March 2011

Cape Town

Mummenschanz

This extraordinary Swiss theatre troupe, are masters of make-believe and illusion. By using everyday objects and materials, such as cardboard boxes, rolls of toilet paper, refuse bags, etc., they create ingenious costumes and masks, and portray everyday situations. Mummenschanz`s quirky humour and imaginative visual shows are appealing to audiences of all ages and cultures. Baxter Theatre

1 to 13 March 2011

A Handful of Keys

Roelof Colyn and Jonathan Roxmouth at two grand pianos, give a dazzling display of pianistic virtuosity and hilarious impersonation. Music that ranges from the great classic masters Bach and Beethoven, through the kings of soul Ray Charles and Fat Waller and via the queens of showbiz and pop, Elton John, Freddy Mercury and Liberace.Theatre on the Bay.

2 February to 12 March 2011

Andre Rieu Arena Tour

Having topped the tour rankings with his sold out SA Tour last year, the Dutch violinist and conductor will bring another spectacular grand-scale production to our shores featuring his Johann Strauss Orchestra, choir and soloists, plus a number of surprise special guest performances. Held at Grand Arena at Grand West.

11 to 13 March 2011

Cape Argus Cycle Tour

The Cape Argus Pick ‘n Pay Cycle Tour is the largest timed cycling event in the world. Attracting in excess of 35 000 cyclists from around the globe each year. Based in Cape Town, the Cycle Tour represents 109 km of some of the most scenic spots in the world.

13 March 2011

The Cape Town Carnival

The primary objective of the festival is to bring together the diverse people of the City of Cape Town. An annual theme will be interpreted through a variety of dance styles, carnival songs, and festive floats. One of the main judging criteria will be based on the ability to portray the mash-ups of the different cultures and elements.

19 March 2011

Cirque de Soleil Saltimbanco

The critically-celebrated international entertainment group Cirque du Soleil will perform for the first time ever in South Africa with its vibrant signature production Saltimbanco. Features breathtaking acrobatics. Full of colour, amusement and amazement, a fun show for the whole family. Grand Arena, Grand West

23 March to 3 April 2011

Poetry in Motion - Ballet

highlights the beauty of ballet, interwoven with music and the spoken word - a production that transports the viewer into the realm of fantasy in movement. The work features a series of dance vignettes to enhance and showcase the Poetry that is ballet! Artscape Opera House.

26 March to 6 April 2011-02-02

Cape Town International Jazz Festival

2 Day Jazz Festival, 40 international and national artists and 5 stages. Cape Town International Convention Centre

25 to 26 March 2011

Johannesburg

Strictly Tap Dance Fever

Direct from its smash UK tour, the adrenalin-driven show takes the audience on a whistle stop roller-coaster ride of the greatest tap dance moments in show business history. Featuring fantastic musical classics mashed with modern day beat. The Mandela at Joburg Theatre

15 February to 6 March 2011

Hobby-X Johannesburg

Leading exhibition of materials, equipment and supplies used for a wide variety of hobbies and crafts. From DIY-home décor to creative hobbies, from adventure and outdoor to fine art, fashion and scholastic. With theatres of activity where you can learn new decorating tricks; demonstrations of exciting new techniques. The Coca Cola Dome, Randburg.

3 to 6 March 2011

Tina Turner – Simply the Best

Rebecca O`Connor first came to international attention as the winner of the prestigious European impersonation competition Stars in their Eyes in 2002. The Tina Turner Tribute Show, SIMPLY THE BEST, toured all of Europe to much success. The Mandela at Joburg Theatre

10 to 20 March 2011

Dreamgirls – The Musical

Full of onstage joy and backstage drama, Dreamgirls is an international award winning smash hit Broadway musical featuring a multi-talented all-South African cast that brings to life the brilliant energy, history and magic that grew out of the music of the 1960`s and 70`s. Teatro at Montecasino

11March to 17 April 2011

EVITA The Musical

The rise and fall of Argentina`s first lady, Eva Peron, is played out in this hit musical. With lyrics by Tim Rice and music by Andrew Lloyd Webber, and featuring the hit song "Don`t Cry for Me Argentina". Pieter Toerien Main Theatre

25 February to 27 March 2011

Streets of Gold – The Musical

An original South African musical, tells a rousing story of the fight for freedom and love in a world choked by corruption and greed. Award winning playwright Alan Swerdlow delivers a provocative and delightful script, fusing elements of film noir, animation, high fashion and gold jewellery design. The Lyric at Gold Reef City Casino

25 March to 3 April 2011

Gardenex Green Living Fair

The biggest gardening and floriculture exhibition in the Southern Hemisphere. The show now incorporating pets, patio decor, pools and outdoor leisure activities.

26 to 28 March 2011

Durban

High Notes and Highlights

Rory Rootenberg, much loved by Durban audiences, returns for two weekends of charm, wit and beautiful music. Celebrating his friendship with his long time Durban pianist Anne Duthie, Rory will thrill with renditions from some of the great musicals, and also some past highlights. Rhumbelow Theatre

11 to 20 March 2011

Trends and Tastes 2011

This year Decorex SA in collaboration with the KSA Kitchen and Bathroom Fair are proud to announce the launch of an all new décor and lifestyle exhibition, Trends and Tastes 2011. Durban Exhibition Centre.

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

18 to 21 March 2011

Gorilla trekking

Have you been gorilla trekking yet? As they say, no time better than the present. However the present is selling out fast! Our latest report from Rwanda has July and August nearly sold out for gorilla permits, and June is on track to sell out as well. If you want to share in this special natural wonder this year, the time to book is now.

We have both private and group departures for Rwanda gorilla trekking. If you have more time, check out our Rwanda and Uganda Gorillas 2011 trip. If you want to really experience all that Rwanda has to offer (including chimpanzee trekking!), our Unforgettable Rwanda will fit the bill.

We also have myriad of trips to Uganda, including our Ultimate Uganda Safari, which gives you a gorilla trekking experience as well as highlights such as Murchison Falls National Park, where The African Queen was filmed. There are thirteen primate species in Uganda and you'll have the chance to see plenty of them on this trip!

Don't forget you can check out You Tube for some of our gorilla footage. You can also read some first hand trip reports here and here.

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

Book review - Cutting for Stone

A few of us in the office recently read 'Cutting for Stone' by Abraham Verghese. The book is a generational epic that starts with a young nurse in Yemen in 1947 and follows her all-to-short life and that of her orphaned twin sons in Ethiopia and America. The story focuses predominantly on the life of one of the twins and how losing both his mother and father in his childhood impacted and shaped the course of his life.

It took a few pages to capture my attention, but once it did it was difficult to put down. It gives the reader a vivid picture of Addis Ababa; the sights and sounds are brought alive throughout the story. It is the perfect backdrop to this engaging story and sets the stage for many of its most dramatic moments.

With love, betrayal and healing, it's a novel that will hold the reader in its grip and its effect will linger well after the last page.

Book image courtesy Amazon.com

The Last Lions

An amazing nature film about wild lions is coming to the Boulder International Film Festival (BIFF), which is taking place Feb 17-20, 2011, and we invite you all to attend.

"The Last Lions," is a spectacular feature documentary with breathtaking cinematography from National Geographic (and narrated by Jeremy Irons) about a wild lion and her cubs in Botswana. The film will play on Saturday, February 19, 2011 at 10:00 a.m. at the Boulder Theater. Check out the trailer here. You can also read a synopsis of the film and buy tickets online here. "The Last Lions" is a Call 2 Action film, meaning there will be a short Q & A session after the movie.

Tickets are available via the Boulder Theater box office, and seating is limited. Tickets are $12/adults, $10/students/seniors, and special pricing is available for groups of 10 or more. Contact the Boulder Theater box office for group pricing information.

Also of note about BIFF this year: Oliver Stone and James Franco will be there!


Info courtesy Boulder International Film Festival. Photo courtesy Gretchen Healey

Zambia from the air

Zambia is a very special place. The birthplace of the walking safari is heaving with wildlife but not with people. It's off the beaten track. It has the famous (Zambezi River), the infamous (Victoria Falls) and the off-the-map (Kafue, North and South Luangwa).

We have a special opportunity for you to take to the skies in style. Gaze out over the seemingly never-ending scenic splendor and fly eye-to-eye with eagles while watching herds of wildlife and flocks of endangered Wattled and Crowned Cranes far below.

Africa Adventure Consultants and Wilderness Safaris are thrilled to offer an exceptional hot air ballooning experience in the Kafue National Park - one of Zambia’s prime and largest wildlife destinations.

Stay for three nights in one of three stunning camps on the Busanga Plains – Shumba, Kapinga or Busanga Bush Camps – and be treated to this breathtaking experience FREE OF CHARGE - which concludes with a champagne breakfast under a grove of fig trees! Call us to plan your customized Zambian adventure!

*Offer valid from August 1 to October 31, 2011

Photos courtesy Wilderness Safaris and Gretchen Healey

Pafuri Camp Update - Male Lion Conflict

We wanted to share a very exciting sighting from our partners at Wilderness Safaris and Pafuri Camp in South Africa with you.

Pafuri Camp guests enjoyed an amazing experience recently. It was a battle on a grand scale between two male lions. One of the males is the six-year-old adult, a territorial male who has dominated the area for the past three years. He is also the father of the younger male (about three years old) who is his oldest offspring and the first cub sired during his 'reign'.

The dispute was over one of the females that was on heat, and ended with the sub-adult male inflicting some intensive blows and ultimately getting the prize of the female - this time. If these two males stay together they could become an impressive coalition and very good for the lion dynamics of the area as a whole.

It is not unknown for fathers and sons to form coalitions although it by no means the norm and we anticipate that this will not be the last conflict of this nature that we observe between the two.

Some other good news on the lion side is that the sister of this younger male had her first litter in August 2010 and has two cubs of her own. The cubs are alive and healthy, both doing very well. This female and her cubs are seen quite often now - these lions and the sub-adult male already mentioned are frequently seen quite close to Pafuri Camp itself, this point forming the centre of the range given that the cubs do not range as widely as the adults are able to.

There was also another pride of females seen two weeks ago with two very small cubs, so that's three more lions on the concession at the moment! Overall, some incredible lion viewing opportunities at Pafuri Camp right now.

Want to visit Pafuri? Call us and we will customize a Southern Africa safari for you!

Photos and sighting courtesy Sean Carter and Wilderness Safaris

Curried Corn

Corn has been adopted by Africa and become a staple all over the continent. This easy side dish combines Africa's love of corn with East Africa's love of spices. It's especially great because it can be made with fresh or frozen corn.

Curried Corn
Adapted from The Africa Cookbook: Tastes of a Continent
by Jessica B. Harr
Serves 6-8

1 tbsp butter
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 tsp hot curry powder
5 cups corn kernels, fresh or defrosted if frozen
1/2 tsp cornstarch
1 cup coconut milk
2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped
(could sub canned, diced tomatoes if out of season)
salt and pepper to taste

Melt butter in a heavy saucepan over medium heat until foaming. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are very lightly browned. Add curry powder, stirring to ensure onions and garlic are well coated. Add corn and continue cooking. Combine cornstarch and coconut milk in a small bowl and add to the saucepan along with the remaining ingredients, stirring well to distribute the liquid evenly. Lower heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for 7 minutes, or until the coconut milk is almost all absorbed.

Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge Opens

Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge has opened and they are welcoming their first guests. In celebration of the opening of the iconic hilltop game lodge in Zambia’s South Luangwa, we are pleased to offer three nights for the price of two. This historic property is open year round. In addition, the lodge accepts children of all ages – making it the ideal destination for the family holiday of a lifetime! It has one interconnecting suite and two triple rooms that are perfect for families. This special opening offer is valid for travel from 1 February–15 June 2011 and for new bookings from 15 January 2011. Call us to book now.

Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge was originally built for Kenneth Kaunda, the former Zambian president, in the 1970s and the original colonial style has been retained in the furnishings. A long veranda stretches outside the dining room, from which guests are afforded views down the valley to the Luangwa itself. When possible, dinner is served outside. On cooler nights, roaring fires take the chill out of the air. The roar of lions or the saw of leopards can often be heard from the wooded valleys that surround the lodge.

Each of the ten elegant suites at Sanctuary Chichele comprise of four-poster beds, air conditioning, and private veranda. In keeping with the rest of Chichele, the suites are decorated in an understated colonial style with a fully appointed en-suite bathroom. Large French windows offer a light, airy feel to the suites, opening onto your private terraces -the ideal vantage point to relax and enjoy the wildlife.

Game viewing at South Luangwa is considered to be some of the best in the world. It is a notably good place to see leopards, particularly in the dry season when they have less cover in which to hide. From Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge, guests have the particular privilege of being able to go on night game drives when it is possible to see all sorts of animals that are seldom seen by day - like leopard, hyena and bush baby. Plains game, such as antelope and zebra, are not scared by the lights so guests are able to get very close to animals for fabulous photographs. The early evening is the best possible time to see diurnal animals and a little later is the best time for nocturnal wildlife, so a game drive combined with sundowners gives guests the best of both worlds.

There are also wonderful opportunities in the area for walking safaris. Guided walks are conducted by a professional guide and an armed parks scout. It is on foot that Sanctuary’s guides can show travellers some of the most fascinating signs of the bush, many of which are hard to spot from a vehicle. Out in the bush with an armed game scout and a guide, travellers can follow animal tracks along sandy paths. It’s not just the big animals that are fascinating – termites, dung beetles and chameleons all have their stories to tell too. The park hosts many herds of the endemic Thornicroft giraffe which can always be found in the prolific Mopane woodland on the valley floor.

Call us so we may work with you to craft a customized Zambian adventure that includes a visit to Chichele Presidential Lodge and all the wonders that Zambia has to offer.

Off the Beaten Path: Mfangano Island Camp - community development

We also wanted to share the 'other' side of Mfangano Island Camp from our friends at Governor's; what they do for the environment and the local community. Read on...

Community Development

The local communities and especially the kids on Mfangano Island have proved extremely bubbly and welcoming to guests on cultural walks. Their charm has worked wonders, with many guests generously donating to various charitable projects. A big thanks must go out to Erk Thomsen from Germany who is has invested so generously that he is now famous on the island!

Currently we have 3 great community projects on the go:

Solar Electricity

Our neighbouring village of Nyakweri now boasts a good primary school with over 300 pupils largely down to the Camp and our charitable guests. In addition to 4 classrooms, our latest project which is currently underway is to introduce solar powered lighting and electricity to the school. This is a first of a kind project in the area and should help to allow students requiring extra tuition to do so at night without the expense incurred by their parents currently of fueling gas lights. Teachers will also be able to use radio and other multimedia to help in everyday classes, broadening the perspective of this isolated community.

Nyakweri Clinic

Late 2010 we managed to secure financing to build a government operated clinic in Nyakweri Village. The construction for this is commencing in the week ahead. The new clinic will provide nursing and drug prescription to this community, who have so far had unfortunate deaths with critically ill or injured individuals which would otherwise be preventable with easy medical access.

TIPS School (www.tipsinternational.wordpress.com)

Erk Thomsen was so taken by this small (74 kids) community run school that he decided to become its patron. The school (in Yokia) provides very affordable and valuable education for Kids aged 2yrs - 14yrs and helps to freely educate orphaned children. The school is also developing a programme to help economically disadvantaged widows to become self-sufficient.

A feeding programme started in October 2010 where kids get fed a free lunch every day, where previously many children just went hungry. Last week 100 school bags and uniforms were distributed to the pupils for the first time. Currently we are deciding on a contractor to build a classroom for the year 5's. We are also securing a supply of books and syllabuses for the kids and teachers as well as other teaching materials and even additional teachers. The kids have also been given a football to kick about! To witness the turnaround in progress is astonishing. Where less than a year ago there were nothing but a few syllabuses shared between teachers for 7 classes and not a dictionary in the entire school! The classrooms are nothing but tin shacks with rubble floors. 30 new desks have also been supplied. It really is a miracle, and we hope to see it progress into a definitive success story in community development and co-operation!

Photos courtesy Governor's Camp

Off the Beaten Path: Mfangano Island Camp - birds, otters & monkeys

From our friends at Governor's Camps, here is the continued story of Mfangano Island Camp, a little slice of paradise on Lake Victoria.

Birds:

December highlights included frequent sightings of a transient guest in camp believed to be a 'Black-Chested Snake Eagle'; which provided fluttering gems of excitement, being seen swooping a few metres above ground level in the Northern side of the camp for a three week period. The resident African Pied Wagtail duo successfully hatched their second chick in 2010 on the 18th of December in their favourite nesting site, our 120 HP boat Atutu. We hope to accommodate them again in the New Year! The small migrant population of Open-Billed Storks' also migrated to Mfangano in late December. As ever the egg-eating snakes on the island have been taking full advantage of breeding birds and just yesterday a 5ft Green Mamba was seen snaking its way in to a weaver bird colony at an elevated residence of more than seven meters.

Otters & Monkeys:

Native Vervet Monkeys have tripled their numbers in the last year and don't seem to be stopping there. This is giving the farming community a real headache as they battle to protect their farms from sunrise to sunset during the upcoming growing season. Within Camp approximately 75% of all adult females are carrying young infants. These mothers troop around in a crèche with the month old babies clinging closely to their bellies. Whilst the last batch of 4/5 month old youngsters are now fully independent and foraging on their own and bounding between trees with boundless energy. Surprisingly, a large male monkey in the 30+ strong troop in the northern side of the camp has been seen carrying an infant around in maternal fashion. This is not something we have seen before and we assume the mother has died and the baby is cared for by this relative and suckled by nursing female(s) of the family.

Otters have been seen in abundance over the last few months with all guests being fortunate enough to see these graceful creatures. We were even fortunate enough to witness a loved up couple mating and courting in the shallows on a stretch of heavily bouldered shoreline with a backdrop of steep sloped and unblemished forest on the eastern side of Wakula Village.



Coming up: Community Development at Mfangano Island

Photos courtesy Kaila Millar

Off the Beaten Path: Mfangano Island Camp

An ideal retreat from the hustle and bustle of modern life, Mfangano Island Camp is an oasis of tranquility, lapped by the waters of Lake Victoria and shaded by giant fig trees. Lawns hug the waterline, flowerbeds and rock gardens surround the camp. Enormous boulders sit at the water’s edge, a perch for cormorants or giant monitor lizards to sun themselves. Each room features a private veranda and sun beds. The food is as fresh as can be, fished from the lake (hopefully by you!) or picked fresh from the island’s vegetable gardens and orchards. We are featuring excerpts from 'Life on the Lakes' from our friends at the Governor's Camp collection this week in the Safari Journal Blog.

Camp & Island Life

The Drought:

Mfangano Island experienced a very long dry season as from July 2010 up until the end of December. The anticipated rains of October never materialised and the island was only saved by a relatively small spattering of rainfall from the end of December to early January, where mists shrouded the horizons. Thankfully the Island's dependence on just one yearly crop and fishing meant that the Suba were not crippled by this localised drought, instead the residents are now cultivating the land ready for the rainy season (mid March - May).

Fishing:

January has seen bountiful catches of 'Omena' (the bitter East African whitebait), which is a Luo and Suba tribe staple. This is a good sign for the Lake's well being, as are the daily Otter sightings which have provided an entertaining sight for all our lucky guests!

Late 2010 saw good fishing from the Camp. We managed to record a 39kg Perch in October by Mr. Tim Mountfort from South Africa. In November Mr. John Delgado from the States caught a 20kg fish which also made it to our board of fame. The largest caught in December was 9kgs caught by Mr. Andrews from California. We look forward to some more good fishing in 2011 and anticipate getting more names on the record board!

Next post: birds, otters and monkeys

Photos courtesy Kaila Millar