June - Botswana Game Report - Zarafa Camp

This recent game report comes from our friends at Zarafa Camp.

Well winter is upon Northern Botswana. The overnight lows are dipping to 5C but fortunately, and typically, midday temperatures rise to a very comfortable mid-twenties touching 30 degree Celsius. Even as the flood waters continue to push into the area, the dry season has begun; there hasn't been a single drop of rain during June. Ironically, it’s during the dry season that the most free standing water is found.

The flow of water in the Okavango Delta system as well as the Linyanti Swamp system due to massive rains in Angola earlier in the year is resulting in higher than usual water levels in the Zibadianja Lagoon, Selinda Spillway and Savuti Channel. Yet winter continues and the “dry” season unfolds with many trees losing their leaves, vegetation being grazed and dying back revealing game sightings not often encountered during the wetter summer months which are characterized by much dense green vegetation.

With free standing water in the surrounding waterholes all but dried up, the concentration of game along the Zibadianja Lagoon and adjoining waterways is phenomenal.

There are large breeding herds of elephants (Loxodonta africana) moving in and out of the tree-line here to drink from the lagoon regularly. They have even come through camp, drinking in view of our deck pools which was an absolute spectacle for guests.

By far the highlight is the denning of the wild dog (Lycaon pictus) pack. The estimate is that on the 12th of June 2011, puppies were born in the same den used last year. There have been some awesome encounters with the dogs while they have hunted as far over as Zarafa Camp and have been moving around the edge of the lagoon and even seen on Joubert Island crossing shallow water towards their den.

At present the den site is closed to vehicles to give the dog puppies some time to settle. In the very near future though, guests will be able to have scheduled visits to the den and this will provide a once in a lifetime experience watching them rear their young puppies and all the super interactions between the members of the pack during this time. The adult pack have been hunting around camp frequently to the point where a young male impala (aepyceros melampus) was chased into the lagoon in front of the deck and stayed put in the water until long after sunset.

Photos Great Plains Conservation

June Mara Game Report

This report comes courtesy of our friends at Mara Plains Camp in Kenya. It is written by Dereck Joubert (of 'Last Lions' fame!).

I don’t usually add to the camp dispatches here because we like to see that coming from the guides and experts at our camps, but I’ve just been in Mara Plains for a few days pacing out new tent positions for our new camp which we will be building there in 2012 as well as looking for a site for a new mobile camp.

May and June are traditionally very quite travel months to the Masai Mara and as I walked around the camp I found myself stopping all the time and just shaking my head. This must be the best time of the year in the Masai Mara.

Thousands upon thousands of zebra filtered through and around the camp sometimes getting confused for a moment amongst the tents! As many, if not more, wildebeest kicked up so much noise that it felt like traffic. These wildebeest are different to the usual migration from the Serengeti but come down from Loita Plains where the route to Loita and back is narrowing desperately by fenced off wheat farms. The result is a longer, more extreme northern migration ending up in and around Mara Plains.

Two nights ago, lions killed a zebra right near camp. Within minutes the first hyena charged through camp, tail up and ready for battle. Twenty or more hyenas swooped in on the lions and displaced them in minutes, but the lions rallied and won their kill back again. The Mara hyenas are bigger than those we know so well from Botswana, and they gathered their confidence and attacked again winning the kill, but just for a moment and the lions growled and hissed and clawed their meal back in a final thrust of aggression. This is real Africa, with real drama, and all happening with no one around.

In and out of the reserve in two days we saw two other vehicles.

I’m collecting my cameras and heading back up as soon as possible. Anyone wanting to see the most spectacular wildlife in Africa, without the clutter of other vehicles should do the same. I’m a new fan of May and June at Mara Plains!

Report courtesy Mara Plains and Dereck Joubert

Recipe: Spicy Tomato & Lentil Soup

This recipe comes to us from our friends at Leopard Mountain Game Lodge in South Africa.

Spicy Tomato & Lentil Soup
SERVES 6

Ingredients
1 onion
4 garlic cloves
2 tsp fresh chopped curry leaves (optional)
1 chilli
4 tsp fresh chopped coriander (cilantro)
1 tbsp garam masala
1/2 tbsp curry poweder
1 tsp turmeric
1 tsp cumin
2 c cooked lentils
5 tomatoes (deseeded & chopped)
4 c water

Fry onion, garlic, chilli, curry leaves & coriander with a little salt. Once cooked add the remaining spices and cook on a low heat for about 30 seconds. Add lentils & cook for a minute or two. Add tomatoes, cook until they start to break down. Add water and simmer for 15 minutes. Taste for seasoning and adjust as desired.

Serve with minted yoghurt and chopped coriander (cilantro)

Minted yoghurt for garnish

1/2 c Greek yoghurt
1 tbsp mint leaves
1/2 tsp cumin
1 tsp lemon juice
salt to taste

Mix together and adjust seasoning

Safari Q+A

Why do reptiles sun themselves?

Reptiles are classified as ectothermic, which means that they are unable to regulate their body temperature internally and are therefore dependent on environmental heat sources. On safari, we frequently see reptiles sunning themselves. Reptiles will move in and out of sunny spots, retreating to shade to keep their body at a constant temperature.

Photo courtesy Gretchen Healey

South Africa Events Calendar

Bringing you the latest goings on in South Africa this winter season.

Cape Town

JULY

Danscape 2011

This annual showcase of dance allows the young up and coming Jazzart dancers and choreographers the chance to perform in a professional environment. A number of young artists and companies who have never before featured on this platform will perform. Artscape Theatre.

7 to 10 July 2011

Kylie Minogue Aphrodite-Les Folies

Aphrodite was released in July 2010 and became Kylie`s fifth #1 album in the UK, hitting the top spot a full 22 years to the week since her debut album Kylie entered the chart. Grand Arena / Grand West

13 and 14 July 2011

The Nutcracker - Ballet

Imperial Russian Ballet - The Nutcracker: Following their 2009 sell-out season of Carmina Burana by Carl Orff, the Imperial Russian Ballet Company returns to South Africa to perform The Nutcracker. They are joined by South African children from ballet schools. Artscape Theatre

14 to 16 July 2011

Indigenous Orchestra Ensemble

Is an eclectic mix of indigenous to mainstream South African contemporary music and jazz, accompanied by brass instruments, keyboard, Imbira, traditional instruments and dancers. It is narrated through storytelling, which tells the tale of how indigenous instruments were introduced in our communities. Artscape Theatre.

28 to 30 July 2011

AUGUST

James Blunt – Some Kind of Trouble Tour

This 5-time Grammy award nominee has many hits which include You’re Beautiful, Goodbye My Lover and 1973. Blunt has been compared to the likes of Damien Rice and David Grey. He has sold over 15 million albums world-wide. Grand Arena at Grand West Casino.

30 August 2011

Swan Lake Ballet

The greatest of all classical ballets ever choreographed, this masterpiece embodies mystery and romance portrayed in sublime, ethereal movement. Tchaikovsky’s score transports the viewer and inspires the dancers in their portrayal of this tale of love’s triumph over evil. Artscape Opera House.

19 to 26 August 2011

Cape Town Fashion Week,

Africa’s largest gathering of fashion talent, has grown into one of the premiere “new world” fashion weeks providing an international platform for designers from across sub-Saharan Africa. The thirteen collections will showcase emerging designers along with industry heavyweights. Cape Town International Convention Centre.

11 to 14 August 2011

Johannesburg

JULY

Parlotones Dragonflies and Astronauts

This rock theatre production is complete with storyline, sets and characters revolving around the greatest hits of The Parlotones. On the 16th of July the show will be broadcast live from The Teatro at Montecasino in 3D. The transmission - a world first - will be beamed via satellite to 3D outlets around the globe. Teatro at Montecasino.

13 to 17 July 2011

The International Ballet Gala

Showcases a galaxy of ballet stars, in showpieces from legendary ballets such as Swan Lake, The Sleeping Beauty and The Nutcracker. Glittering performances by international ballet stars. Teatro at Montecasino.

7 to 10 July 2011

Trio Fibonnaci

Relax with JMS and enjoy the world’s musical masterpieces, brought to you by exciting international and local artists of the highest caliber. Linder Auditorium.

30 July 2011

Mediatech Africa

Mediatech Africa showcases cutting edge technologies and services from industry leaders in television and broadcast, sound and audio, lighting and staging, animation, communication and related fields. Coca Cola Dome – Randburg

20 to 22 July 2011

National Antiques & Decorative Arts Faire

Local and international exhibitors showcase their collections. There will be a wide range of furniture from the Victorian, Georgian, Edwardian and Art Nouveau collections. There will be jewellery, glassware, porcelain as well as prints, maps, coins, military memorabilia and books on display. Sandton Convention Centre.

22 to 24 July 2011

AUGUST

James Blunt – Some Kind of Trouble Tour

This 5-time Grammy award nominee has many hits which include You’re Beautiful, Goodbye My Lover and 1973. Blunt has been compared to the likes of Damien Rice and David Grey. He has sold over 15 million albums world-wide. Coca Cola Dome.

26 August 2011

Rain - A Tribute to the Beatles

Direct from Broadway; listed as number 17 in Pollstar’s top world tours this adoring Beatles tribute band will take you back to a time when all you needed was love and a little help from your friends. Teatro at Montecasino.

23 August to 11 September

Johan Botha Gala Concert

For a one-night-only gala performance, Johan Botha returns to Gauteng where he studied and made his stage debut (as Max in Weber’s Der Freischutz in Roodepoort in 1989). Conducted by Sebastian Lang-Lessing and including glorious Romantic repertoire by Verdi, Puccini, Leoncavallo and Lehar, this concert is a rare opportunity to hear one of the world’s foremost singers live on stage. Teatro at Montecasino.

20 August 2011

Old Mutal Jazz at the Theatre

A monthly jazz experience, happening at Nelson Mandela Square’s Old Mutual Theatre, it brings Jazz lovers the very best of SA Jazz talent in an intimate Theatre setting.

7 August 2011

Standard Bank Joy of Jazz

Celebrating its 12th anniversary in 2011 The Standard Bank Joy of Jazz has a fantastic line up of top international and local artists. This year international aritists hail from America, Sweden, Spain and the Netherlands and will be joined by top performers from South Africa and the African Diaspora. Newtown.

25 to 27 August 2011

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

Recipe: Marinated Olives and Feta

There is no shortage of South African cookbooks available. Today, I've taken a recipe from Braai in Style by Lannice Snyman. The recipe is for a very simple starter. This recipe makes a large batch; you can keep it in the fridge as it will be good for several weeks. You can easily halve the recipe if you prefer. Serve at room temperature as a snack, or scatter the mixture over a salad.

You can find the most fantastic feta cheese in South Africa. I eat it to excess every time I visit. It's thick and creamy and not nearly as salty as what I find in the markets here in the States. Be sure to sample some on your own trip to South Africa! Only use block feta in this recipe, not pre crumbled. While it might not be as good as the feta in South Africa, if you use quality ingredients throughout the recipe, the flavors will shine.

2 1/4c green olives
2 1/4c black olives
1 3/4c block feta cheese, cut into large squares
4 cloves garlic, skinned and halved
1 tbsp whole coriander, lightly crushed
2 fresh red or green chillies, hoalved and seeded
fresh rosemary sprigs
olive oil

Drain olives and place in a bowl with the cheese, garlic, coriander, chillies and rosemary. Toss gently to mix. Put the mixture into a large jar and fill to the brim with olive oil. Seal and refrigerate until serving.

Makes 3.3 lbs

AfricAid's Tanzania

Twelve kind, curious, and adventure-seeking Americans and Canadians + four Tanzanian schools + three game parks + two nights camping in the bush = one truly amazing, once-in-a-lifetime safari.

AfricAid and Africa Adventure Consultant’s first guided trip to Tanzania concluded a few short weeks ago. Participants witnessed AfricAid’s programs first-hand and got to experience Tanzanian culture through school and home visits. And, of course, it included the classic safari experience. The group visited Tarangire, Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti. In one day, they saw thirty lions and one leopard – and that’s just the cats.

The trip provided a very unique opportunity to see life-changing programs close-up and to enter Tanzanian schools and homes. The group visited two primary schools: Upendo and Losinoni, and two secondary schools: Muungano and Arusha Secondary. This was a blend of public and private, and urban and rural schools. Still, one thing was constant; there are thousands of bright, spirited, beautiful children who simply want to learn and make their lives and communities better. Children and travelers engaged in a postcard activity where each shared stories and pictures of their homes and lives at Losinoni, and sang, played, and asked questions to learn about one another at Upendo. Multiple home visits, including a visit to a traditional Maasai home, afforded the opportunity the better understand the culture in an authentic, unfiltered way.

The game park visits were extraordinary and offered the chance to see some of the famed wildebeest migration, as well as hundreds of other animals from the tiny dik dik to the mighty lion. Venturing out among a field of elephants is truly a life-changing, awe-inducing moment.

As we concluded this year’s trip, we’re already planning for next year. There’s certainly something in the air in Africa. The smell of smoke from cooking fires and fragrant flowers mix with sounds of calling birds and the occasional distant drum. Yes, there’s something magic in Tanzania and it’s not just in the air; it’s in the people. We hope each and every one of you can join us soon and experience it for yourself. Our 2012 safari will take place in June of next year and will be a family-friendly trip. For more information on AfricAid and Africa Adventure Consultant’s 2012 trip, please contact us.

Guest blog courtesy Elizabeth Abeshire (AfricAid). Photos courtesy Elizabeth Abeshire and Ashley Schulyer.

Recipe: Cheese Crisps

This recipe comes from one of my favorite South African cookbooks, Cape Town Food by award winning cookbook author Phillipa Cheifitz. The cooking methods used are very approachable, and the photography throughout the book is very nice - both of the food and of Cape Town. The recipes in this book never disappoint, and often they're the talk of the party.

This recipe is a great snack for the cocktail hour. You'll be surprised how quickly they'll disappear!

Cheese Crisps
Adapted from Cape Town Food by Phillipa Cheifitz


1/2 c gruyere cheese, grated
4 tbsp soft butter
1/2 c cake flour
pinch cayenne pepper
salt, to taste

Mix all ingredients together to form a dough. Roll into a sausage shape and wrap in greaseproof paper. Freeze until firm enough to slice.

Slice very thinly and bake at 375 degrees for 5 minutes or until golden, but watch carefully as they can easily burn. Allow to cool slightly, then lift carefull onto a wire rack. Store in an airtight container until serving.

Gretchen's Trip Report - part 2

The next destination in my journey was Chobe National Park in Botswana. You can fly into either Kasane (Botswana), Livingstone (Zambia) or Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe) to get to Chobe. Flights to Livingstone and Victoria Falls tend to be more economical than to Kasane.

I flew into Livingstone and was greeted then transported to Chobe via the Kazangula border crossing. This is a river crossing; you are dropped by one guide and vehicle on one side and met by another guide and vehicle on the other. I love African border crossings (though I don't think that's a universal feeling amongst all travelers). They are most often very busy and some level of commerce is always present, as well as people, vehicles and animals. They are always interesting to pass through, and Kazangula just popped to the top of my list of favorites.

After being met on the Botswana side, we finished the border crossing and made the short transfer to Sanctuary's Chobe Chilwero Lodge. The lodge is perched on top of a bluff overlooking the Chobe river. It's very luxurious and intimate, with only 15 guest cottages. Each cottage is spacious with both indoor and outdoor showers, freestanding bathtub, luxurious bedding and a sitting area. Because of its location, it also has power for little luxuries like an in room mini-fridge (no wait for a cool beer on a hot afternoon!) and air-conditioning. In keeping with little luxuries, there is a private garden out back with seating and relaxing hammock, as well as seating out front overlooking the Chobe river.

There is a pool on the grounds for those hot days when you need a cool dip. The main area is airy, spacious and comfortable, with lots of indoor and outdoor seating; afternoon tea on the lawn is particularly lovely. There is wi-fi and cell phone reception if you must, or if you want to post a quick email home to let everyone know you arrived and that everything is wonderful, there's a guest computer available for use. The connection speeds are tolerable, but it's not broadband. There's a nice curio shop with all sorts of interesting things to take home to your family and a few supplies like batteries and such in case you forgot yours.

The food is exceptional - this was the case at all of Sanctuary's camps and lodges. Breakfast is a buffet followed by cooked options if you wish. Lunch is a buffet as well, with wonderful light choices, including a variety of healthy options. Dinner is plated and multi course. Additionally, you have a choice of entrees, and of course any dietary restrictions can be accommodated. When you travel, let us know in advance if there is anything you can't or don't wish to eat so we can make your wishes known early. At Chobe Chilwero, you have the option of dining inside or out, though barring terrible weather, I find dining outside in Africa to be wonderful and special any time of day.

Activities at the camp include game drives in Chobe National Park and sundowner cruises on the river. If you find either of these strenuous or just want to treat yourself, Chobe Chilwero has an amazing full service spa offering everything from couple's treatments for your romantic trip, body treatments, hydrotherapy and more. Book your treatment in the tree house for an extra special experience. I can attest to the credentials of the spa staff; I was lucky enough to have an absolutely amazing massage during my stay.

While you're waiting for the next report, don't forget to keep an eye on our Facebook page for trip photos, more trip report information and links to You Tube videos from our travels!

Next up: game drives and sundowner cruises in Chobe National Park - living the safari life!

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

Sanctuary Zebra Plains camp opens

We are excited to announce that Sanctuary Zebra Plains, Sanctuary Retreats first luxury walking safari camp in Zambia’s fabled South Luangwa, is now open! This is a fantastic bush adventure by foot as you experience the sights, sounds and smells of the bush while enjoying personalised service, fine dining and the most luxurious tented accommodation.

Garth Hovell, one of Africa’s most highly respected guides and explorers with twenty years of experience, will host guests at Sanctuary Zebra Plains and lead two walks each day. Even after twelve years of guiding walking safaris, for Garth there is simply no match for the adrenaline rush of a walking safari: “On foot your senses are heightened by all that surrounds you to give you the ultimate safari high.”

I had the pleasure of going on a walking safari with Garth last month at Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge in the South Luangwa and it was one of the best walking safaris I've ever enjoyed. Garth is an amazing guide and is incredibly passionate about his work, which he demonstrates on every walk. You'll hear more about that walk in an upcoming trip report.

We're equally excited to bring you this special opening offer. If you book a stay for two at Sanctuary Zebra Plains, the second guest’s stay is half price – a savings of up to $825. Valid for new bookings with travel between June 1 and October 31, 2011.

Zebra Plains is a seasonal camp operating from June to October each year. The camp has been designed to leave the lowest possible carbon footprint and will be packed up completely between seasons leaving no trace that it was ever there.

There are set departures on Mondays and Thursdays, with a three night stay. We recommend combining a Zebra Plains walking safari with a stay at Sanctuary Puku Ridge Camp or the newly renovated Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge. We are currently offering three nights for the price of two at the Presidential Lodge. These permanent properties in the South Luangwa both offer morning and evening game drives so that you have a diverse safari experience.

Call us for more details or to plan your safari!

Photos courtesy Sanctuary Zebra Plains

Recipe: Summer Refresh drink

I went to a tea tasting last weekend at a shop with over 150 varieties of tea; dozens of which were variations of the fantastic South African Rooibos (pronounced 'roy-bus'). Even better, I found a new cookbook in the shop with recipes based on Rooibos tea as a cooking ingredient.

The book, A Touch of Rooibos, has over 100 different recipes from 14 of South Africa's top chefs. The cookbook gives you a quick study of each chef as well as some tips on cooking with Rooibos, then heads in to delicious territory with soups, salads, mains, desserts, drinks and more. Rooibos tea is very easy to find these days; check your grocery store tea aisle and I bet you'll find some.

I chose a drink recipe to share with you today. It comes from a fantastic lodge in the mountains of the Cederberg region that is well worth a visit and a special place to stay. The valleys are dotted with citrus groves and there is hiking nearby as well as mysterious and beautiful San rock art. The highest vineyard in South Africa can be found in this region as well. If you'd like to learn more about Bushman's Kloof lodge or include it in your own South Africa itinerary just give us a call. On with our refreshing recipe...


Summer Refresh
Recipe by Bushmans Kloof from A Touch of Rooibos
Makes 20 glasses

4 cups cold, strong Rooibos
4 cups orange juice
4 cups lemonade, chilled
2 cups soda water, chilled
1 lemon, sliced
fresh mint leaves
crushed ice

1. Mix the Rooibos and orange juice. Place in the refrigerator to chill.
2. To serve, half fill a tall glass with the Rooibos mixture. Top up with the chilled lemonade and soda water to taste.
3. Garnish with lemon slices and mint. Serve with crushed ice.

Voila! Enjoy this summertime treat. No doubt, it would be nice to sip during an African sunset.

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

Gretchen's Trip Report - part 1

As you know, several of us in the office recently spent time in Africa to see what's new, what's improved and what's happening. I had the pleasure of a quick but very interesting trip to South Africa, Botswana and Zambia.

I flew South African Airways from Washington, DC to Johannesburg. This flight stops in Dakar, Senegal en route. It's a quick and painless stop, but can be frustrating on a long journey to spend an hour somewhere you aren't staying. If you want to take a nonstop flight, the JFK (New York) to Johannesburg flight became nonstop on May 1st. I personally feel like it's better to get it all done in one fell swoop, but we'll leave that to seat availability and your discretion on your own journey!

Upon arrival in Johannesburg, I was met and greeted at the airport and escorted to the Gautrain station. Get it? Johannesburg is in Gauteng province, hence the Gautrain!

I hardly needed the escort, as the way to the train is very clearly signposted, but it's always nice to be greeted upon arrival. Joburg airport is amongst the best in the world; it has decent places to eat, great airport lounges for frequent fliers and shopping galore. I know a number of people that build a little extra time into their journeys just for the shopping!

Getting my Gautrain ticket was easy. There are automated kiosks as well as a manned booth. I opted for the latter and got a 'return' (two-way) ticket to Sandton, a desirable area of the city where my hotel was located. I entered the station with my 'Gold Card' (ticket) and awaited the train. The station was immaculately clean, well lit and staffed with security. The train runs frequently (every 12 minutes during peak hours), so you never have to wait long.

When the train arrived, I alighted and took a seat. The train was as spotless as the station and was comfortable. The ride to Sandton takes fewer than 15 minutes; a fraction of how long it might take by car depending on the traffic. The Sandton station is clean and well lit as well, and easy to navigate. I took the elevator and found myself on the street opposite my hotel; the Radisson Blu Gautrain.

The rooms at the Radisson are spacious and modern and will fulfill your needs for a short city stay. For dining, you will find the 'All Day Restaurant' in the hotel serving up very good food (including some traditional African dishes), with a nice wine list and views of the surrounding area. The breakfast buffet is staggering; it's a heck of a way to kick off your morning.

The hotel also has a bar, as well as a sundeck with a pool and an outdoor bar. If these aren't enough for you, there are a few restaurants within the building on street level, though I did not have the opportunity to dine at any of them as my stay was short. Finally, the hotel also has free wi-fi (and decidedly expensive computers for you to use if you don't have your own; about $7 for 15 minutes access) and good workout facilities.

I would submit that taking the train to the city after an 18+ hour journey is not for everyone; sometimes you just want to fall in the back of a vehicle and be whisked to where you're going. Definitely weigh this before deciding whether the Gautrain is right for you and your trip. The benefit is that it's a budget friendly way to get into Sandton. The drawbacks are that it requires some maneuvering after a very long and tiring journey, and only goes to two places (as of this writing), so the lodging options are very limited.

My return journey to OR Tambo the following morning was just as easy and uneventful. From there, I was off to Botswana and Zambia. More on that next week!

Gautrain station photo courtesy Gretchen Healey

Hotel photos courtesy Radisson Blu Gautrain