The following story comes from our friends at Sand Rivers Selous in Tanzania. All photos courtesy Mark Sheridan Johnson.
Hearing lions roar early we made our way over to one of the lakes that is fed by the Rufiji river called Lake Segese, The lake is part of the huge Rufiji water system, all the water that flows in the Rufiji falls within the country, a truly Tanzanian river. As we approached Lake Segese the roars of the lions became more frantic, we picked up speed to see if we could catch a glimpse of what was happening.
Bounding along the shores, a lioness jumped straight into lake Segese fully submerged she reappeared bursting out of the water, she carried on this way making her way to the other side of the lake, behind her on the lake shore was another five lions in hot pursuit.
Oblivious to our presence, the lions carried on charging round the lakes edge, eyes fixed on the lioness ahead. At the helm was a fully grown female, followed by four of her offspring, the adult female also jumped into the lake to cut a corner and catch up with the female ahead. We kept up as they ran through a small Doum palm thicket, passing that the female who jumped into the lake was now cornered. Her only option was a fallen tree that was half in the water, out of desperation she took the chance and made her way hastily along the branches to the end and turned around, teeth showing and snarling.
We pulled up and switched the engine off, the noise was incredible all five lions were roaring, the matriarch and a young male decided to follow her up the fallen tree which was over hanging the water, the female at the end was visibly wounded, deep puncture marks were streaming blood. Taking care the lions edged their way toward the end of the tree, the noise was deafening snarls and roaring.
The attackers were unable to get a good enough grip on the log. They retreated back onto the lakes edge, marking their territory and roaring, finding a shady spot the attacking pride lay down keeping their eyes fixed on the lioness in the tree. Sometime passed, the sun was gradually rising and the lioness was in direct sunlight, her wound was still bleeding and she was in an uncomfortable position over water with five lions trying to get her.
Over the next couple of hours the pride of five tried several times to reach her at the end of the tree, each time they failed retreating back to the shade to watch her patiently. We all decided it was time for breakfast now, so we made our way over to lake Tagalala for a lovely bush breakfast.
An hour later we returned to find them all in the same positions.
As we approached the lioness took the opportunity to make a run for it, she nimbly made her way to the shore, then as fast as lightening dashed off towards lake Tagalala, turning around we found the five lions were in hot pursuit again, we tried to keep up! Finally reaching the pride, where they had stopped, we thought she must have escaped, looking up into a large Wing bean tree, there she was, right up near the top. Five lions at the bottom, another standoff! After watching for a while we decided to head back to the camp for lunch; what an exciting morning!
The female must have been caught wandering or hunting in this prides territory, the prides which are controlled by a matriarch often fight each other over territorial boundaries. In the afternoon there was no sign of any of the lions, we believe she eventually escaped her attackers.
Twelve kind, curious, and adventure-seeking Americans and Canadians + four Tanzanian schools + three game parks + two nights camping in the bush = one truly amazing, once-in-a-lifetime safari.
AfricAid and Africa Adventure Consultant’s first guided trip to Tanzania concluded a few short weeks ago. Participants witnessed AfricAid’s programs first-hand and got to experience Tanzanian culture through school and home visits. And, of course, it included the classic safari experience. The group visited Tarangire, Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti. In one day, they saw thirty lions and one leopard – and that’s just the cats.
The trip provided a very unique opportunity to see life-changing programs close-up and to enter Tanzanian schools and homes. The group visited two primary schools: Upendo and Losinoni, and two secondary schools: Muungano and Arusha Secondary. This was a blend of public and private, and urban and rural schools. Still, one thing was constant; there are thousands of bright, spirited, beautiful children who simply want to learn and make their lives and communities better. Children and travelers engaged in a postcard activity where each shared stories and pictures of their homes and lives at Losinoni, and sang, played, and asked questions to learn about one another at Upendo. Multiple home visits, including a visit to a traditional Maasai home, afforded the opportunity the better understand the culture in an authentic, unfiltered way.
The game park visits were extraordinary and offered the chance to see some of the famed wildebeest migration, as well as hundreds of other animals from the tiny dik dik to the mighty lion. Venturing out among a field of elephants is truly a life-changing, awe-inducing moment.
As we concluded this year’s trip, we’re already planning for next year. There’s certainly something in the air in Africa. The smell of smoke from cooking fires and fragrant flowers mix with sounds of calling birds and the occasional distant drum. Yes, there’s something magic in Tanzania and it’s not just in the air; it’s in the people. We hope each and every one of you can join us soon and experience it for yourself. Our 2012 safari will take place in June of next year and will be a family-friendly trip. For more information on AfricAid and Africa Adventure Consultant’s 2012 trip, please contact us.
Guest blog courtesy Elizabeth Abeshire (AfricAid). Photos courtesy Elizabeth Abeshire and Ashley Schulyer.
Today's recipe is sweet rather than savory. Kashata are popular during the holidays throughout East Africa. Make some as a sweet treat to end a meal this weekend.
2/3 c sugar 1/2 tsp cinnamon 2 c grated coconut or 1/2 lb unsalted peanuts, finely chopped
1. In a heavy skillet, heat the sugar until it melts (10-15 min), stirring constantly. The sugar will become dark brown and syrupy as it melts. 2. Add the cinnamon and the coconut or peanuts. 3. Cook for 2 minutes, or until the sugar turns light brown. 4. Remove from heat and let cool. 5. When mix is cool enough to handle, form 1-inch balls and place on wax paper until set.
I had this dish the first time I visited Tanzania. I was skeptical when I was told I would be having banana and meat stew for lunch, but I'm a firm believer in trying everything once. This recipe will make you try it once, twice, then three times, then again...
1lb beef (preferably grass fed), cut into cubes 2c water 2 onions, sliced 2 tomatoes, peeled and sliced 2 tbsp oil 2 medium green plantains, or 4 small green bananas; washed peeled, sliced and placed in a bowl with cold water (I'd use the plantains unless you're getting your bananas from Africa!) 1c coconut milk salt and pepper to taste
Place the meat and water in a pot and simmer for an hour. Saute the onion and tomato in hot oil in a large skillet until the onions soften and take on some color. Add cooked meat, plantains and coconut milk. If the coconut milk does not cover the meat, add some of the meat stock. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer gently until bananas are cooked and the meat is tender. If you are using regular bananas, add them 15-20 minutes before the meat is done.
Kathy Wojcik has joined the safari specialist staff at Africa Adventure Consultants. With 25 years of experience as a leisure and cruise travel consultant with American Express Travel, she brings to AAC a wealth of experience and passion for her work. She has traveled to 65 countries including Kenya, Tanzania, Botswana and Zimbabwe.
On her most recent safari, Kathy visited Amboseli, Lewa Conservancy and Masai Mara where she was thrilled to encounter many species of animals and birds—the big cats being a special favorite. She enjoyed her first camel ride at Lewa—she recommends wearing padded biking shorts if you have them!
Kathy also is an avid outdoorsperson, enjoying many of Colorado’s hiking trails, and loves tending to her organic flower and vegetable gardens. She welcomes your inquiries and will be happy to discuss your preferred travel destinations.
This blissfully big park has abundant game which you can see in a vehicle or on foot. If you're intrepid you can also fly camp for an additional fee (weather dependent!). This involves sleeping away from camp on a bedroll with a mosquito net; nothing much between you and the stars. You'll have all the comforts of camp - the great cuisine, hot bucket showers, the works; but you'll get a deeper and more intimate bush experience. It's not for the faint of heart, but it's very memorable.
I did both traditional safari as well as a walking safari. Walking in Katavi is not on par with Zambia; I did not see nearly as many animals, but I enjoyed it just the same. My guide Phillip was incredibly knowledgable and made the walk very interesting. We saw elephants, antelope (there's lots of Topi in Katavi), giraffe and birds. I also got some tracking tips, and learned where not to stand when near a warthog den!
Because I visited in the green season (about three weeks into the rains), the game was more dispersed than in the dry season. Katavi is most famous for its abundant crocs and hippos. When its dry they can be seen in the thousands. Green season or no, I saw lots of hippos and crocs, as well as more giraffes than I have ever seen anywhere, antelopes, monkeys, buffaloes, and more birds than I can recall. I also saw a few unusual looking animals, such as a broken-necked giraffe and a hippo with his teeth growing more like warthog tusks (both pictured here). Unusual and interesting.
The magic of the green season (other than really attractive pricing) is that the animals are very relaxed. There is food and water for all. I saw monkeys using a young tree as a see-saw to play, hippos each with their own private pools (some on their backs while lolling in the mud), giraffe drinking all over the place (it's the riskiest spot for them to be in), and nobody looked hungry.
Elephants were in camp every day, and something was always nearby at night. My most memorable evening was spent by the fire after dinner. The chorus started with the hippos making their usual nighttime noise followed by a hyena 'whoo-ooo'-ing. The sing-song capped off with lions roaring as they came up the road. All in all, a pretty satisfying end to my day!
As I departed, the elephants came to see me off. Katavi is a camp I'm going to get back to as soon as I can; it's a really special place.
Don't forget you can see more video of our travels on our You Tube channel!
Next: Mahale Mountains National Park and chimpanzees!
Katavi National Park is remote - really remote. From Arusha, it takes about 4 hours, plus a refueling stop in Tabora, to get there. My plane was nearly private - just one other passenger who was on her way to Mahale Mountains National Park (my next stop after Katavi). She was from Italy and was nearly as excited as I was to be headed to some of the most remote areas in Tanzania.
After finally landing at the airstrip near park headquarters, I was met by my guide Phillip. The airstrip close to Chada Katavi is being resurfaced and should be done next season (around July 2011) if all goes to plan. This meant a long-ish game drive back to camp, but also allowed me to see more of the park than I might have otherwise.
Phillip had the vehicle kitted out with all the comforts including fly whisks for the tsetses and cold beverages. There is a bit of mopane woodland to traverse through, which is where the blasted tsetses can be found, but the fly whisks really are handy. It's also interesting scenery; not a lot of animals, but a few interesting things like technicolor lizards and bird life, as well as some human settlements which are very basic. The human activity included charcoal kilns and small trading centers, as well as agriculture.
We stopped for a bush picnic on the edge of the plain en route. It was incredibly peaceful watching giraffe and topi in the distance and gave me a chance to chat further with my guide. It turns out that for the duration of my stay, there were only a total of four guests in Tanzania's third largest park! We did manage to see the other guests once during a game drive, but that was it for seeing any other humans outside of camp!
We got back to camp in the afternoon with time for a cool drink, a shower and a short nap. I was warmly greeted by Mark and Kristen the camp managers. My tent was large and comfortable with a very big bed, a veranda overlooking the plain and a basic but very functional bathroom setup.
Katavi is rustic - no doubt about it, but it is a glimpse back to the glory days of safari. A guest will want for nothing here; the food and service are wonderful. You have power, a library full of interesting books, a campfire to while away the evenings, walking and driving safaris - it's a terrific package. But if you want an ultra luxury experience (or a shower that lasts more than a few minutes), this is not the camp for you. Bathrooms are, as I said, perfectly functional. They recently installed chemical toilets (to replace long drop toilets), and hot water is delivered in the mornings, as well as waiting for you after game drives and in the evenings at bedtime. Hot (bucket) showers are al fresco and are quite nice to get the day's dust off. If you wish, you can arrange for extra water for a slightly longer shower.
The camp is spread out and each tent feels very private. The maximum number of guests is 12 (six total tents), so you really get an intimate bush experience when you stay here.
There are some other guests that frequent the camp on a nearly daily basis - elephants. A large elephant family has found that they enjoy visiting the camp and its tamarind trees. It is a quiet oasis and they have made it part of their routine. The first time they visited during my stay, I was walking out from my tent and Phillip called out that I should stay put. I did as he said and then watched wide-eyed as the elephants materialized out of the woods and moved towards the library tent. They had no interest in me; I got to enjoy an uninterrupted and magical 10 minutes watching them move through camp.
Once they were past the library, I moved to the library and got another long view of the eles - this time from the comfort of a couch! As I said, this was a daily occurrence and often from different venues. It was one of the most special experiences I had in Katavi.
Next: Game activities in Katavi & nighttime lions!
Before the next installment of Gretchen's trip reports, here is an introduction to the next destination that will be covered. In the (slightly edited/condensed) words of the camp managers themselves (thank you Mark and Kristen!).
It's a good day in Chada Katavi, slightly overcast, winds out of some direction or other, chance of rain a strong maybe, chances of sunshine about the same, and chances of us winning a writing award, nil. From today onward, "Chada" will be how we refer to the camp where we live and host safari guests, and "Katavi" will mean we're talking about the national park in which Chada camp is nestled.
Simply stated: when in Chada, if you walk for days in any direction, seeing another human is not an expected outcome. What you will see are animals. Animals by the savanna-load, so to speak. Herds of buffalo, pods of hippo, prides of lions, flocks of vultures, journeys of giraffe, melodies of larks, blah blah blah. Some people spend hours trying to figure out what a bunch of zebras should be called. We call them a beautiful gathering of wild, striped horses, faster than most other animals out here, except some types of antelope and, of course, the cheetah!
We spend our working hours being civilized, studying wildife behaviour, patterns, seasonal migrations... We have dinner parties with our guests in a big tent, with some rather fine dining, if we do say so ourselves... We take people on professionally guided walks and drives and our local guides' knowledge is staggering... Sometimes our guests do some staggering of their own...
Tomorrow we are expecting 6 guests, that means our camp will be exactly half full. Yes, we are tiny. Not only are we tiny, but the camp is too. 6 big tents on decks with outdoor showers. The tents are, I just told you, big, so there is space inside for beds, tables, old fashoned wardrobes...it's really not too bad.
Only the insane drive here, so no offense to those few of you who have driven in this season, but the way to get here is to fly. Even by air, people step off the plane, turn in a bewildered circle, and then sprint to the nearest bush to 'check the tires'. These little planes don't have toilets and the flight is long. The drive here takes 4 days from Arusha. 4 days! Having worked in southern Sudan, Kenya, Burundi and Uganda before, we really thought we were living in the middle of nowhere. Maybe we were, but if that was the middle of nowhere, this is another planet.
I can attest to the remoteness, the animals, the dining, the guides' knowledge...and more. Look to my next trip report for all of the details on this amazing spot.
After reluctantly leaving Clouds Lodge, I headed back to Kigali and an afternoon city tour. Kigali is a vibrant, clean and organized city. Taking a half day city tour allowed me to see and learn more about it.
By far, the most moving part of the city tour was my visit to the Genocide Memorial. Rwanda experienced a tragic genocide in 1994 and the Kigali Genocide Memorial is one of many memorials throughout the country that stand as a reminder of the genocide with the intent of preventing it from ever happening again. While touring the memorial is definitely a sobering experience, it provides a deep understanding of what happened in 1994, as well as giving insight into other genocides around the world. If you are in Rwanda, you will not know the country as well without this learning experience.
I once again stayed at the Kigali Serena for my final night in Rwanda. See my earlier trip blog for details on this excellent property. After a good meal and a great, but all-to-short sleep I was off to the airport for my very early flight to Arusha. As I was on a charter flight, we had a few stops along the way, including in Mwanza on Lake Victoria so that we could clear customs.
Arusha is a bustling city and the starting point for most safari activities in Tanzania. There are myriad lodging options from basic to luxurious and most travelers going on safari will spend at least one night here. This trip I stayed at Rivertrees Country Inn in Usa River, about 25 minutes outside of Arusha. If you are joining us on Africaid's Tanzania safari this May, you will have a chance to stay at this delightful property.
I stayed in a cottage on the river. All of the rooms are very nicely appointed, however the two cottages have added privacy and nice touches such as day beds, outdoor showers and pretty patios facing the river. The property rambles along the riverside and is a quiet respite from the city. There is a pool, a bar and restaurant as well as common areas with books, games, cozy gathering spots, and if you must - Internet access. The guest computer has a nice view of Kilimanjaro on a clear day. I'd recommend getting up early to see it before it clouds over!
The food was abundant and excellent, and the staff and owner were very welcoming. Most especially, I needed to recharge a bit after the excitement of the prior week. Rivertrees allowed me to do just that - a quiet spot with lots of nooks to relax in; both indoors and out.
While in town, I also visited the newly reopend Mt. Meru Hotel. It had only been open for two weeks when I visited, however with the polished service and the professionalism of the staff, you would never know it had just opened!
The hotel is elegant and luxurious. There are a variety of room types for the needs of every traveler, and all are very well appointed. Things like flat screen TV's are standard, and little luxuries like upgraded toiletries, robes and slippers are found throughout. The views are excellent; the front of the hotel faces Mt. Meru, while the back overlooks the amazing pool facilities and a beautiful golf course.
There are two restaurants as well as a coffee shop, and a sleek cigar and Cognac lounge. They claim to have the largest selection of wines, cognacs and spirits in East Africa. You'll have to visit to find out for yourself!
Mt. Meru hotel also has a world class spa with 'guaranteed relaxation'. If you need to wrap up a bit of business or check in on what's going on at home, they have state-of-the-art conferencing facilities. Internet speed and availability appears to be above average here.
I would recommend this hotel for travelers that want a bit of luxury before heading off to or coming back from the bush. It would work well for couples as well as families. If you're staying elsewhere in Arusha and just need a cool down, they also have pool access available for a fee.
We had a very exciting update from our partners at Chada Katavi camp in Western Tanzania. They've had lots of elephant activity in camp in recent months much to the delight of guests. This week, they had an even more exciting in-camp visit from some local lions. Here's the latest scoop directly from the camp managers!
Since everyone is getting tired of hearing about the elephants in Chada camp all the time, we decided to spice things up a bit. And since the animals haven’t yet figured out that we are trying to run a camp and host our safari guests in this little woodland overlooking the plains, they sometimes don’t let us get much sleep at night.
As if the incessant whooping of hyenas, prattling of the bushbabies and rumbling of the elephants wasn’t enough, the hippos and lions came to camp and had a major brawl the other night. It started at 2 a.m. with lions roaring. Then everyone heard the hippos snorting and hooting, and from then on there wasn’t much sleeping going on.
By 2:30, things were quieting down, until there was a very loud clatter which sounded remarkably similar to the time someone dropped a tray of cups, saucers and pots upon coming face to face with an elephant while delivering a dawn wake-up call to tent 4. But this was not wake-up call time. mean, if someone really wants to get up at 2:30 a.m. that’s fine; after all, we try to be very accommodating here at Chada.
Big clatter heard by the whole camp, then some growling and grunting. Hippos and lions, fighting. We assumed that the tall shelves holding our wine glasses, snifters and tumblers had just been knocked over by a fleeing hippo through the dining tent wall. Then our radio began to call my name, “Mark, Mark, Mark.” We were already awake, and Kristen said, “Alfred is calling you,” Alfred is our fearless night guard. Every morning I ask him the same question, “How did you sleep?” He laughs, every morning, and shakes his head and says, “I didn’t sleep.”
Alfred, whats happening?” “Lions are trying to kill a hippo at the mess tent". We tried to go back to sleep, but twice more we heard loud banging noises, like wood being thrown around. Assuming that would be our lovely tables in the mess, we were seriously wondering what we would find at dawn. At 5:15, the radio goes again, this time a housekeeper was asking Alfred to come with a better torch because he can hear lions but can’t see anything. We dressed and headed out into the darkness, walking slowly and shining well ahead, stopping briefly to look at a beautiful cat snake crossing the path with it’s iridescent head glowing blue-green in the torch light. Then Kristen heard that classic fast heavy panting of a well-fed lion off to our right. I called Alfred and asked if all the lions were at the mess tent. He said there was one near tent 4 also. I answered that WE were by tent 4.
The housekeeper, Tano, had been heading to room 5 and heard it, then Alfred had come and they saw it in their torchlight. Thanks for the heads up! We moved away and went the long way to the kitchen. Issuing radios and good torches to the housekeepers, we sent one housekeeper back to the staff quarters to ask Maripet to come up so we could issue him a rifle, then we started checking the area to see where the lions were. Most were at the mess tent, where we could now tell they had killed something and were feeding. It was still too dark to see, but the sounds of their growling at each other and crunching and gnawing were plain to hear.
Maripet and I went to have a look at tents 4 and 5 at first light. Tent 5’s wake-up call was already late, and we didn’t want any impatient guests stumbling out to find a coffee. Maripet asked me to switch off my torch so he could see better in the dawn grey, and when I did, he pointed into the bushes between tents 4 and 5 and we saw a male lion walking away toward tent 5. We went back, got the housekeepers, and walked together to tent 4. When we told Charles and Marie Lou in tent 4 that there were lions in camp, he started laughing and she said, “Oh really?” This being their 28th year on safari, they knew what was going on throughout the night.
Telling them we’d be back at 6:30 to escort them to their game drive cars, we headed for tent 5. Again Maripet pointed into the bush and the male lion was walking away again, not pleased to be near humans on foot. A similar routine at tent 5, with an apology for the late delivery of the wake-up call, which elicited some sleepy laughter from Miloud and Pierre. Being told to wait for our return to escort them to their landrover, Pierre said, “Oui, oui. Don’t worry, I don’t go outside this tent!” Meanwhile, now knowing the lions were at the mess tent feeding, Kristen and Alfred went to tent 1 with a similar message for Alessandra and Antonella, “We’ll come back and escort you to your game drive cars.” They were pleasantly surprised when their guide, Emmanuel, showed up at their tent door with his landrover.
At 6:30, we could finally see what was going on at the mess. One side of the tent was pulled down, and five lionesses were feeding on a smallish hippo, right against the tent. Knowing how nervous lions are at seeing us on foot, and by contrast how relaxed they are in the presence of our open landrovers, the guides brought the landies around behind the kitchen and we did the same with the guests. The last thing we wanted was to have a sleepless night and no payoff at the end, so the rule of the morning was: no one must be seen walking anywhere beyond the kitchen within view of the lions. So in what we believe might be the shortest game drives in the history of Chada Katavi, we drove our landrovers 100 metres to the mess tent, switched off the engines and sat disbelieving as we took in the scene. Eventually the male showed up too, having skirted the tents and come back to the kill, so there were six lions sitting outside our damaged mess, feasting.
Want some excitement of your own? You can visit Chada Katavi on our Wildest Tanania safari or we can customize a safari for you. Call us to investigate your options.
The lesson you've been waiting for - Swahili names for animals you'll see on safari! Some of these you will no doubt recognize as they have been made popular in movies and pop culture. Others may be new to you. Work on them and you'll be at the head of the class while on safari!
Tarangire National Park was rich with wildlife and charm. We met Frederick and Hashim, our trusty Tanzanian driver guides for the next seven days, at the Kuro Airstrip and headed in our pop-top 4x4 Land Cruisers into the bush on an hour game drive to Swala Camp. Along the thicket of acacia trees, we were greeted by elephant, Cape buffalo, zebra, giraffe, warthog, kudu, waterbuck, impala, and even a tiny tortoise. We were also unpleasantly greeted by the ever-dreaded tsetse flies, which are more prevalent in wooded areas. The best way to combat these pesky flies is to be pro-active – apply bug spray in advance (some people think it works), wear long pants and long sleeves, and avoid dark colors (black & navy blue which attracts the flies). Swala Camp can also be reached by road from Arusha – about a two hour drive to the park gate and then another 2.5 to 3 hour game drive into camp. We comfortably settled in at the luxury, 12-tented camp, nestled among a canopy of acacia trees before hopping into Swala’s 7-seater open air vehicles for an exhilarating night drive. After refreshing sundowners on a bluff, we continued our exploration for nocturnal activity and luckily spotted bush babies, zebras and one tiny chameleon perched on a branch. Back at camp, we were wined and dined (Swala is all-inclusive) by the friendly staff with gourmet food, a table set under the stars and the gentle chorus of a lion roaring in the very close distance!
Waking in hopes that the serenading lions were not too far away (fingers crossed we would spot them), we started our morning game drive through Tarangire, admiring the stunning scenery. Tarangire is not only known for its hefty herds of elephants but also for the striking baobab trees which stand tall along the horizon. There was also quite a bit of vulture activity as these scavengers were sharing a carcass with some Marabou storks. Along with the mighty baobabs, an abundance of resident game made for brilliant photos as we headed north. Other properties in the area include Tarangire Sopa Lodge (75 rooms, big pool & 10 minutes to a balloon launch site) and Tarangire Safari Lodge (35 tents, 5 bungalows & 15 minutes to the park gate). In my opinion, Tarangire Safari Lodge has the best views in the park, overlooking the Tarangire River. The camp is situated high on a bluff so that each tent and the outdoor lounge/boma look out over the river – you could spend all day on your verandah watching as the animals come and go to this dominant water source. Higher end choices include Oliver’s Camp (8 luxury tents offering specialty walking safaris) and Tarangire Treetops (20 suites, on a private game reserve bordering Tarangire NP).
En route to the Ngorongoro Highlands, our scenery changed from the local wildlife to the local culture. As the land became more lush and green, we observed the agricultural way of life. Local markets with colorful fruits and vegetables lined the road, and more bicycles, now toting bundles of green bananas, pedaled along. Mto Wa Mbu village, just minutes from Lake Manyara, is the perfect spot to enjoy a cultural visit during your safari. You can then continue on a game drive through Lake Manyara National Park to see the soda lake, pink flamingos and, with luck, tree-climbing lions. Some lodging options in the area include the Lake Manyara Serena (67 rooms & 5 minutes from the LM airstrip), Kirurumu Tented Lodge (23 tented rooms & stunning views of Lake Manyara). In Karatu, near the Ngorongoro Conservation Area border, choices include Gibb’s Farm (20 cottages, located on the slopes of a working farm), Plantation Lodge (16 rooms with flowering gardens & the intimacy of a owner-run lodge), and very luxurious, The Manor at Ngorongoro (5-star property nestled high up on a coffee plantation, 18 standard rooms & 1 stable cottage with private chef & butler). We ended our day at the Ngorongoro Farm House, which is a well-appointed lodge with 51 rooms, sustainable vegetable garden, wildly landscaped gardens and decent food. We rested well in preparation for our following big day in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.
I just returned on Sunday from an amazing 15-day trip through Kenya, Tanzania and Zanzibar – my first trip with Africa Adventure Consultants. Being back in East Africa was better than I expected. How can you ever fully prepare yourself for the grandeur of the African plains, the majesty of animals roaming free, and the warmth and color of the local cultures? Yet again, I was left breathless, in awe. Above all, I think that the African skies are my favorite of anywhere in the world. My oldest sister, Kelly, was my original inspiration for traveling to Africa, and when I was with her in the Limpopo region of South Africa in 2004, she made me listen to the sunset. Traveling in East Africa during the short rains offered some of the most dramatic skies I’ve ever seen. And thanks to my sister, I remembered to listen to the setting African sun as it burned orange, pink and purple across the silent savannahs. And thanks to a very busy travel schedule, I greeted each new day with spectacular sunrises.
After a short rest at the Mayfair Hotel in Nairobi, we headed in two minibuses (a.k.a. an African matatu) with Henry and George (our Kenyan guides) to Amboseli National Park, known for its huge herds of large-tusked elephants and unparalleled views of Mt. Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa. The African minibuses are clean and comfortable, have 4WD to allow for harsh road conditions, and a pop-up roof for better wildlife viewing; however, if at all possible, I highly recommended upgrading to an open-air, 4x4 Land Rover for your safari experience. We stayed at Satao Elerai Safari Camp, located on a private conservancy about an hour south of the gate to Amboseli NP. The camp has 9 luxury, mountain facing tents and 5 luxurious, lodge-style suites (the tents are a must!). Although it is a bit far from the park entrance, the advantages of being in a private conservancy include bush sundowners, night game drives and game walks. The staff was friendly, the food was tasty and the views of Mt. Kilimanjaro from the 9 tents should have been stunning (if only Mt. Kili had come out from behind the clouds!).
Other lodging options in the area include Amboseli Sopa Lodge (83 rooms, located outside of the park) and the Amboseli Serena Lodge (92 rooms, located inside the park). A few more intimate tented camps are Tortilis Camp, or farther out, ol Donyo Lodge.
Wildlife is less abundant during November and December, as well as in March and April due the rains. Although we did spot giant elephant, ostrich, giraffe, hyena, vervet monkeys, baboon, wildebeest, Thomson gazelles and an abundance of birds, it is actually better to visit this elephant haven during the dry season in January, February, and July through October. We exited the park and an hour later along bumpy, gravel roads, we reached the Namanga border to Tanzania – bidding Kenya farewell for now, purchasing our Tanzania visas, and hopping into our pop-top, 4x4 Land Rovers, all in a matter of 20 minutes. The two hour drive to Arusha was a combination of paved and dirt roads, as the road construction in East Africa seems endless, but thankfully, the roads were also lined with colorful villages, bicycles toting 2 to 3 passengers along with stacks of wood, and women miraculously balancing buckets of water on their heads.
After brushing the dust off our clothes, we made a quick visit to the Arusha Coffee Lodge, which is the perfect spot for relaxation either pre or post safari or before catching a flight. All of the 18 standard rooms and 12 suites offer posturepedic mattresses, choice of hard or soft pillows, and an indoor fireplace (just to name a few amenities) all tucked along the well groomed grounds of a coffee plantation. We enjoyed a delicious BBQ lunch at the Shanga River Lodge and a quick stop in their divine gift shop, which supports disabled Tanzanians, before boarding our 12-seater, Air Excel Cessna for a scenic (yet bumpy) 20 minute flight to the heart of Tarangire National Park. From here, our true wildlife safari began.
Have you been practicing your Swahili? We've had three lessons so far. We have focused on greetings, basic expressions and making friends. Today, we will add a few more expressions and phrases that you might find useful in your travels.
Nina furaha. I'm happy.
Nina njaa. I'm hungry.
Nini kiu. I'm thirsty. Nisaidie tafadhali? Can you help me?
Nimechoka. I'm tired.
Ni maridadi. It's beautiful. Hii bei gani? How much is this?
Nikupatie kinywaji? Can I get you a drink?
Ni joto/baridi. It's hot/cold.
Natumai tutakutana tena. I hope we'll meet again.
Safari njema! Have a good trip!
Mbona unachecka? Why are you laughing?
Kivi kiswahili changu kibaya hivyo? Is my Swahili that bad?
That's all for today. Stay tuned for lesson five where we will look at some words and phrases that will come in most handy while on safari.
Our third foray into the Swahili language will concentrate on interactions with other people and making friends. After this lesson, you will be able to introduce yourself and learn a bit more about others.
Jina langu ni... My name is...
Nimefurahi kukutana nawe! Pleased to meet you!
Hujambo? (or Habari gani?) How are you?
Sijambo, wewe? Fine, thanks. And you?
Mnastarehe? Are you enjoying your stay?
Ndiyo, ninapapenda sana. Yes, I like it very much.
Unatoka wapi? Where do you come from?
Mimi ni... I'm...
Mmarekani American
Raiya wa Uingereza British
Mkanada Canadian
Leo kuzuri! What a lovely day!
Asante, nimefurahi sana jioni hii. Thank you, it's been a wonderful evening.
Continuing on with useful words and phrases for your trip to East Africa, today we will focus on some more basic expressions. We will focus on questions and some practical phrases for conversing with your new language skills.
Wapi? - where?
Vipi? - how?
Lini? - when?
Nini? - what?
Kwa nini? - why?
Nani? - who?
Iko wapi...? - where is?
Umbali gani? - how far?
Muda gani? - how long?
Bei gani? - how much?
Sema pole pole, tafadhali? - Could you speak more slowly?
Sema tena tafadhali? - Could you repeat that?
Vipi unatamka? - How do you pronounce this?
Nifasirie hii, tafadhali? - Can you translate this for me?
Sifahamu - I don't understand
Nafahamu - I understand
Note that most Swahili words are pronounced phonetically. One word above that might give you pause is 'hii'; which is pronounced hee-ee. Give these words and phrases some practice before our next lesson. If you haven't planned your trip yet, give us a call and we'll work with you to customize a safari to Kenya, Uganda or Tanzania, so you can get some real world practice!
Hearing lions roar early we made our way over to one of the lakes that is fed by the Rufiji river called Lake Segese, The lake is part of the huge Rufiji water system, all the water that flows in the Rufiji falls within the country, a truly Tanzanian river. As we approached Lake Segese the roars of the lions became more frantic, we picked up speed to see if we could catch a glimpse of what was happening.
Oblivious to our presence, the lions carried on charging round the lakes edge, eyes fixed on the lioness ahead. At the helm was a fully grown female, followed by four of her offspring, the adult female also jumped into the lake to cut a corner and catch up with the female ahead. We kept up as they ran through a small Doum palm thicket, passing that the female who jumped into the lake was now cornered. Her only option was a fallen tree that was half in the water, out of desperation she took the chance and made her way hastily along the branches to the end and turned around, teeth showing and snarling.
end of the tree, the noise was deafening snarls and roaring.
uple of hours the pride of five tried several times to reach her at the end of the tree, each time they failed retreating back to the shade to watch her patiently. We all decided it was time for breakfast now, so we made our way over to lake Tagalala for a lovely bush breakfast.
d we found the five lions were in hot pursuit again, we tried to keep up! Finally reaching the pride, where they had stopped, we thought she must have escaped, looking up into a large Wing bean tree, there she was, right up near the top. Five lions at the bottom, another standoff! After watching for a while we decided to head back to the camp for lunch; what an exciting morning!
