40-something-year-old Kent's Top 10 Safari Experiences (this trip)

1. Watching Grady (5) and Tate (4) discover Africa.
2. Grady being mobbed by 100 Maasai school children in Loliondo and his smile as they all touched his skin and hair.
3. Tate yelling, "There's an animal!" every time he made a spot on games drives. This was usually followed by "Can I stand up?"
4. Tate's excitement at being able to sit on top of the Landcruiser.
5. Having beers on the deck at Tarangire Safari Lodge as elephants trumpeted in the valley below.
6. Watching young gorillas wrestle in the bushes in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda.
7. Having the sun finally peek out, allowing views of Kibo while hiking Mt Kilimanjaro.
8. One perfect day in the Serengeti, catching the pioneering herds of the great migration.
9. Stargazing (celestial not celebritial) in Zanzibar with Kelly.
10. Throwing rocks with the boys and Sombe the tracker.

5 1/2-Year-Old Grady's Top 10 Africa Experinces

1. Playing soccer at the school.
2. Hyenas chasing young lion in Ngorongoro Crater.
3. Mommy buffalo chasing hyenas who had her calf's carcass.
4. Cheetah.
5. Shooting a bow and arrow.
6. Making rock knives.
7. Throwing rocks.
8. Orange Fanta.
9. Daddy lions.
10. Swimming at Tarangire Safari Lodge.

4-year-old Tate's Ten Favorite Safari Experiences

1. Daddy lions
2. Cheetah
3. Shooting the bow and arrow that Sombe and Malley made for us.
4. Visiting the elementary school in Mjingu.
5. Finding shells in Zanzibar.
6. Discovering orange Fanta.
7. Finding animals on safari.
8. Roasting marshmallows over the fire.
9. Elissa, our first guide.
10. Throwing rocks with Sombe.

Zanzibar - the Spice Island

Zanzibar, the Spice Island, truly lives up to its name. As soon as you exit the airplane you are hit with a waft of rich heat that is both shocking and inviting.

After transferring to the airport we enjoyed a swim in the cool pool at Stone Town's Zanzibar Serena Inn. We visited the open air market and enjoyed a nice dinner. Stone Town is at once exotic, inviting and a little intimidating after a safari bu well worth a visit.

Next day, we shopped the winding alleyways of Stone Town then drove on the relatively newly paved roads to the northeast coast of the island. Shooting Star provided a down-to-earth and welcoming reception for us and while the family enjoyed the beach and pool, I visited many hotels in this area.

Today, Kelly and Bibi (grandma) took an EXCELLENT snorkel trip to Mnemba Atoll where they saw hundreds of varieties of fish. I stayed back with the boys to play on the beach and swim in the pool. When the tide is out, swimming is difficult but the tide pools reveal a great variety of marine life.

Tonight, we relaxed by the pool and finished the evening hunting for crabs and gazing at the stars. Look out for 5-year-old Grady's Top 10 Tanzania experiences list tomorrow.

One Perfect Day in the Serengeti

From Nduara Camp in Loliondo, we drove into Serengeti National Park. Within minutes our guide, Ken, spotted a young male lion on his own. He had probably been kicked out of his pride by older males and was fending for himself. This morning, he was having no luck finding breakfast.

Further into the park, Ken spotted a cheetah from a great distance so we drove closer and watched as he surveyed the plains for prey before disappearing into the tall grass. Later we saw hundreds, then thousands, of wildebeest and zebras. They were the head of the great migration, soon to be followed by a million more working their way northward toward Kenya's Masai Mara. Awaiting them were at least to big male lions perched Lion King style on top of a kopje. Surely there were many more predators around.

After a delicious picnic lunch under the shade of an acacia tree we circled back to see more herds of zebra and wildebeest along with a smattering of eland, Thompson gazelle and buffaloes. Following the Grumeti River back towards its source, we found our young lion hunkering in a bush being stared down by 20-plus giraffe and hundreds of zebra. He was going to have a hard time.

We arrived back at camp literally minutes before the clouds broke open releasing a torrential downpour which pounded our yurt and then said its goodbye by revealing a beautiful double rainbow. After drinks by the campfire we enjoyed a delicious dinner then fell asleep to the sounds of hyenas whooping and a nearby Maasai boma's singing celebration. It was a perfect Tanzania day.

Notes from Kent in the Serengeti

As we head toward the last two days of our safari, I'm feeling like I'd like more time here in the Serengeti! We'll have to make the most of it. For the past two days, we've been at Klein's Camp just outside Serengeti National Park near the Kenya border. This area has gently rolling hills and small mountains interspersed with broad plains. At this time of year, everything is green and beautiful.

This concession is leased from the local communities so just outside the Klein's Camp boundaries there are many Maasai villages, meaning there are a lot of cows, goats and sheep being herded by young men and boys dressed in bright red shukas. As we drove on the bumpy road toward one village, the air was filled with the unmistakable sweet scent of cow dung and smoke. Yesterday, we visited one Maasai boma where an extended family including the father, two grown sons and their numerous wife’s and children lived. The huts here tend to be square rather than round like they are in other Maasai areas. Inside, the dark hut, the air is smoky from the small, ever-present fire in the middle. A young calf, just 2 days old, wanders near the cow-skin bed as we listen to a description of the jobs of the wives. We looked at some overpriced Maasai jewelry and decided to pass, then visited a local clinic where medical services are getting started. The highlight of our visit was the local school where about 700 kids learn in a handful of crowded classrooms. The children's excitement at seeing our sons Grady and Tate was off the charts. At one point there were at least 75 kids swarming around Grady to try and touch his skin and hair. He was a really good sport, exclaiming that he had a lot of new friends and they all wanted to touch him. Tate was more shy and hung back with our guide Malley, but later he bonded with our tracker Sombe while throwing rocks and shooting bows and arrows. He also really liked shooing the birds away from our morning coffee and cookies and catching various bugs in his bug catcher.

Despite our concerns, the boys have continued to be really well behaved and they have each had only sporadic breakdowns or crying spells. Spending time at the swimming pool each afternoon has helped burn off some energy, and they have also enjoyed a higher than average number of treats and snacks. Next, we head to Nduaro Camp, down the road, then on to Zanzibar.

Kent & family in Tanzania

We're driving along the road from Arusha to the town of Mto Wa Mbu near Lake Manyara Tanzania. Maasai dressed in red shukas pull their bikes to the side of the road when our driver, Elissa, beeps his horn. The last few days have been very busy but fun.

After spending a couple wet nights on Kilimanjaro, I went up to Nairobi to pick up the family. We sat in terrible traffic on our way to the city but had a nice stay at Nairobi Serena Hotel. My advice: leave yourself plenty of time if you need to get to town. We flew a new airline Fly540 to Kilimanjaro which was good.

In Arusha, we had a lovely stay at Arusha Coffee Lodge. Thanks to Elewana for hosting us. The rooms are really large and the public areas are comfortable. Best of all they had a pool and a playground that the boys really enjoyed, and a kids menu with choices like lollipop chicken. Traffic in Arusha is bad too and they now have one stoplight but otherwise things looked much the same from years past.

Tarangire National Park, our first safari stop, was green and beautiful despite below normal rainfall which will likely cause hardships this dry season for both wildlife and people. Within 30 minutes, we saw waterbuck, impala, warthog and vervet monkeys, which the boys call sugar monkeys because of their habit of stealing sugar off the tables. Later we saw banded mongoose, Verreaux's eagle owl, ostrich and giraffes, and a big heard of buffaloes, one of whom mock charged the car. Best of all were the elephants. In two days we must have seen 400 to 500 elephants from tiny babies to huge bulls looking for romance with one of the cows. Of course, the many baobab trees created an exotic setting for photos. Thanks to Jon and Annette Simoson for hosting us at Tarangire Safari Lodge where the adults enjoyed the view and kids enjoyed the pool. In addition to tents for two guests, they also have family chalets sleeping three. Olivers Camp, now in its second season, at its new location in the center of the park, was also looking good.

Since I started writing this, we have already made it past Lake Manyara to the agricultural Mecca of Karatu for lunch at Gibbs Farm. Lunch at Gibbs Farm was delicious and the gardens look beautiful as always. The rooms are looking especially nice since they have expanded them. They boys enjoyed seeing the calves and piglets, although Tate was surprised to learn that in a year or so they could be what's for dinner! Next up: Ngorongoro Crater.

Kilimanjaro news from Kent

I have just descended from Mt Kilimanjaro after three invigorating and sometimes very rainy days. My recent trek reminded me both how beautiful Kilimanjaro is and how wet it can be during the rainy season!

We arrived at Kilimanjaro from Longido near the Kenya border. We took the "short cut" that our guide Mbise wanted to try, which after a few wrong turns probably took about the same amount of time as the long cut but it was fun. After signing in I tried on my Kili rental gear (waterproof pants and coat, rain poncho, fleece, gloves, sleeping bag, etc.) All are first rate and I can highly recommend renting as it's much better than lugging it all the way from the US.

Kili was once again a beautiful if not temperamental host. Sun broke through fog and clouds, which roll gently up and down the slopes all day long. Occasionally Kibo, the top cone, deigned to reveal herself just long enough for a picture from our base on the Shira Plateau. Guides Kaen Kapange and Muna "MC" Msafiri explained that Shira was the oldest and tallest of Kilimanjaro's three peaks before collapsing. The crater was then filled with lava from eruptions on Kibo, creating a relatively flat plateau which now serves as the starting point for our Lemosho or Forest Route climbs.

After several hours trekking, my climbing partner, Anne, and I enjoyed a delicious dinner of spaghetti bolognese and more. My tent was very comfortable and I appreciated my warm sleeping bag and fleece liner. Come morning time, a porter opened my tent zipper bearing warm coffee and hot water for washing up. As we readied to leave, guide Kapange asked if I would be wearing my rain pants and gators. No I wouldn't. It looked sunny. (Note to self: When a Tanzanian asks you if you'd like to wear your rain gear they really mean "put on your rain gear you dumb tourist!". Needless to say, it rained all day and night and I was cold and miserable for hours. The hiking was good exercise.

This morning dawned sunny and bright and I enjoyed fantastic views of Kibo. The pace was fast and spirits were bright. I quickly forgot the negative thoughts of the previous day (what the hell am I doing here?) And enjoyed the scenery. After a farewell lunch we drove to KIA Lodge where I enjoyed their warm hospitality and an even warmer and very long shower. Now it's back to Nairobi for the third of five visits to lovely (not) Jomo Kenyatta International Airport to meet the family. Let the fun begin!

Gorillas and more from Rwanda

Gorilla trekking was the highlight of my visit to Rwanda. I joined three other visitors in trekking for Group 13, a family of 26 led by the stately Silverback Agashya.

Gorilla trekking begins with an early morning check-in at Volcanoes National Park headquarters in Kinigi. Visitors are divided into groups based on which gorilla group they have been assigned to. Those of us trekking for Group 13 then drove about 30 minutes up the hill, then walked another 30 minutes through family gardens planted with beans, potatoes and maize. When we reached the 4-foot stone wall that marks the parks border we were told the gorillas were very close. In fact, we could even see a juvenile peeking out from the upper branches of a small tree. At first we were told the gorillas would be coming out to snatch a few snacks from the locals' gardens but they did not appear so we hopped the wall and walked a mere 30 yards to where a female and youngster sat eating leaves. It was so easy that it was actually disappointing! I had been looking forward to at least a brisk hike in the forest. (Apologies to all who suffered on our marathon gorilla trekking in 2006.)

Disappointment was soon forgotten as we found new members of the group including fat bellied females, rambunctious adolescents, tiny babies and finally the Silverback. He gave us a look, took account of his group, then lay down for a rest, moving only when wrestling youngsters bumped into him. More group members moved in providing new chances for photos and before long it was time to go.

After lunch at the newly opened Gorilla Mountain View Lodge, I visited the nearby cultural village to see some dancing and crafts, we visited the well perched Virunga Lodge before staying the night at the spectacular and expensive Sabinyo Silverback's Lodge.

Today after breakfast we made the 2.5-hour drive back to Kigali where I visited the Genocide Museum. It's difficult to convey the emotional impact of a visit to this excellent museum. It does a fantastic job of explaining the root causes and development of what ultimately became one of Africa’s greatest tragedies. I consider it a must-see on any visit to Rwanda.

I arrived two hours before my flight to Nairobi--good thing as it took off 30 minutes early! Now I'm once again cooling my heals in Nairobi Airport on my way to Tanzania. Arusha here I come.

Safari in South Africa

Lyndsay here, I wanted to post a brief update for everyone from South Africa. I am currently at the amazing INDABA travel show in Durban, South Africa. This is a great time for me to meet with many of our associates in Africa and get updates on all the latest developments here. We are looking forward to some exciting opportunities for the rest of 2009 and into 2010. Now is certainly the time to travel to Africa.

Previous to my stay in Durban, I was in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve near Kruger National Park. I spent one night at a great little lodge called Savannah - an excellent value offer luxurious tented rooms and suites. The guides were phenomenal, with extensive training in zoology and biology. Some highlights included wild dog, a female leopard with 5 month-old-cub, excellent elephant, rhino and lion sightings. I was really impressed! In addition, the service, food and atmosphere at Savannah were all great - excellent cuisine, genuine hospitality and phenomenal wildlife. What more could we want on safari?

Next, I ventured to Royal Malewane. What an incredibly luxurious spot! This lodge is amazing and they haven't missed one detail. With such luxury comes a price tag, but this would be an excellent splurge for a honeymoon or special anniversary trip. The wildlife was also impressive there with sightings of both black and white rhino and a female cheetah with three cubs and a recent impala kill. Some exciting stuff! Juan, our guide, was one of the best. The lodge owners have also recently opened their private bush home to groups and families looking to book it on an exclusive basis when they are not there visiting. This is a great option for families looking to host a reunion or wedding in the utmost luxury. It would be hard to beat! We will be able to arrange this for our clients on special request.

I'll be at INDABA in South Africa for the next few days before heading into Botswana's Okavango Delta and Chobe National Park. I hope to be able to send more updates soon!

Ten Observations from Rwanda

1. This country is really hilly.
2. It can be sunny and cloudy at the same time. In a related note, I can feel happy and sad at the same time here.
3. Tea plantations are beautiful but I like Rwandan coffee better.
4. Most Rwandans are really skinny. Could be all the walking up steep hills.
5. Half the mountain gorilla population resides in Rwanda. 70 percent of them are habituated to humans for tourism or research.
6. Primus and Mutzig are the two Rwandan beers. Both are good.
7. Mountain gorillas love to eat bamboo shoots.
8. Mountain gorillas fart a lot.
9. I'm not sure if there is any correlation between numbers 7 and 8.
10. 800,000 people lost their lives in the 94 genocide and the country is working hard to deal with the past and move forward.

Top 10 tips for travel in Rwanda

1. Order your coffee, beer, lunch, dinner, etc. well before you actually want it. We're on Africa time here.

2. Brush up on your high school French. Many people speak English here but a little French goes a long way.

3. Learn a few words of Kinyarwanda. For example, bite (bih-teh) means hello.

4. Hit the Stairmaster before you come. I'm not exaggerating too much when I say I haven't seen a flat spot in the entire country. My guide Alex claims there is open savannah in the East.

5. Bring some sturdy hiking boots. Trekking chimps and gorillas and general hiking can be very slick and slippery.

6. Keep cameras, passports and other valuables in a zip lock bag to avoid damage from moisture.

7. Bring your raincoat. Even in the dry season, showers can make things uncomfortable if you don't have one.

8. Bring your cell phone: Cell coverage is really excellent here if you have the right bandwidth (Check with your service provider). If you have a crackberry like me, then bring it and you'll be able to email and surf the net (for a price). And that's good because very few hotels have internet. (See pic - at this nice hotel I was excited to see the internet room but inside there were no computers!)

9. Don't bring your cell phone. Yes, I did write #8 but I also remember traveling in Africa before there was much cell service and being out of touch made the adventure even greater.

10. Gorilla trek as many times as possible-every $500 permit is worth every penny.

Chimp trekking a success!

In addition to being the cleanest African country I've seen, Rwanda must also get the award for the most nimble farmers. These people can grow crops on the steepest terrain I've ever seen. Bananas, cassava, beans, peas, maize and more are planted, tended and harvested seemingly at a 70 degree angle with little if any terracing.

They call Rwanda the land of a thousand hills but really it's more like 100,000. It’s difficult to describe their beauty and seemingly even harder to capture it on film. Suffice to say that if you tried to design a more perfect mosaic of green hues, you could not.

My trip has been greatly enhanced by my guide, Alex. Born in a Tutsi refugee camp in Uganda in 1960, he was one of the first to return to Kigali after the genocide ended in 1994. He's been a postal worker, hotel work, and pineapple exporter, and is now an enthusiastic and entertaining ambassador for the new Rwanda.

Today’s chimp trekking was very nice. It was steep and slippery and I did get an unplanned foot wash when I fell into a stream, but overall it was beautiful and fun to see and hear the chimps. It was also very relaxing-like meditation-to be in the forest.

This afternoon we had a bumpy ride north along the shores of Lake Kivu…which is really stunning. In one town it was market day and we saw large canoe style boats ferrying Congolese back to their country after unofficial trade visits. Now I'm enjoying a Primus beer as a lightning show is beginning across the lake in Congo.

Kent in Nairobi

So far so good on flights - as long as I forget about the service on United! Swiss Air from Zurich to Nairobi was much better with a choice of movies, free drinks, decent food and friendlier flight attendants.

I'm trying to Tweet regularly (www.twitter.com/kentredding) so we'll see if that can continue while in Rwanda, gorilla trekking, on Kilimanjaro and on safari in Tanzania and in Zanzibar.

In preparation for our family safari, I've been looking for kid's activities. Zurich Airport has a really nice playroom in terminal E. Amazingly, Jomo Kenyatta International here in Nairobi also has a children's playroom! It is locked but the girl behind the counter says she'll open it up for $5 per kid! I guess it's not for average Kenyan families.

I thought they were upgrading the airport here but the concourse looks the same as it has for years. Still hot, crowded, and lively in a chaotic way. As usual the Kenya Airways transfer desk is a mess-today there was staff running around but only two who seemed to be able to help anyone. My newly purchased Red Carpet Club membership is no good here. At the "first class" lounge, of which two Star Alliance members are listed, only a crisp Andrew Jackson (year 2000 or newer of course) will get you entry. I was going to pay it since they have air conditioning but their one computer was down so I found the nearby Java House Cafe (near Gate 14) has AC too so that is where I'm sitting right now enjoying my Tusker beer.

Off to Africa!

I (Lyndsay) am just making last-minute additions and subtracts to my luggage and getting ready to board my flight to South Africa (via JFK and London Heathrow on Virgin Atlantic) early tomorrow morning. My first stop is a private concession outside of Kruger National Park in South Africa, where I spend two nights at different lodges. I'll explore the area, enjoy game drives and maybe even check out the spa! From the wilderness, I head to Durban for a massive trade show called INDABA. There, I will meet with many of our associates in Africa and gather the most recent updates on lodges, parks and camps all over Africa. From Durban I venture deep into the wilds of Southern Africa as I explore Botswana's Okavango Delta, Chobe and the Victoria Falls (Zambian side).

I'm hoping to check in along the way and update everyone with the latest news on Southern Africa. Assuming all goes well, Kent will be updating us, too, from his family safari in East Africa. Also, Sarah Fazendin of the Fazendin Portfolio, will be posting updates from her trip to off-the-beaten-path Malawi. Stay tuned--there will be lots of great safari updates to come!