Best stories from Africa - 2010

To end the year on a hopeful note, from our friends at Africa - The Good News, here is a partial listing of their top stories from Africa for 2010:

2010: The year Africa hosted the world

"Irrespective of the result of the final, the real victor of the 2010 FIFA World Cup is Africa and the South African people," stated a press release from the United Nations in the week following the final match between Spain and the Netherlands hosted at Soccer City in Johannesburg.

In 2010 Africa was, once again, characterised by a mix of triumphs and tragedies. Seventeen African countries celebrated 50 years of independence from colonial rule, to mixed analysis of the progress that's been made. Many African countries made significant progress during the year, while the outlook for some remain far from positive.

The year will, however, probably be remembered as the year that Africa successfully hosted the world and showcased the organisational skills, hospitality and enthusiasm of its people, and the vast potential of the continent. Therefore, as we highlight some of the best good news stories of the year, we have to start with the successes of Africa and South Africa in hosting the world's biggest sporting event.

An African World Cup

South Africa's hosting of the 2010 FIFA World Cup was almost universally seen as a success story, not only for the country, but also for the continent. FIFA President Sepp Blatter gave South Africa a score of 9 out of 10 for organising a successful tournament, as compliments poured in from all over the world. While most compliments went to the host country, Blatter called on the people of South Africa to use the success of the World Cup as an example of what the African continent can achieve.

When South Africa was chosen as host for the 2010 FIFA World Cup, they promised the world a truly African tournament. However, some parts of the media questioned just how African the 2010 World Cup was. Analysis of tourist trends during the tournament showed that almost 40% of World Cup visitors were from Africa, suggesting it was an African World Cup after all. In addition to African soccer enthusiasts, the World Cup final was also attended by at least 15 African heads of state. Some commentators commended the World Cup for highlighting Africa's biggest improvements, such as the vast amount of economic growth and infrastructure development changing the face of the continent.

Kenya votes for a new constitution

South Africa was not the only country to reach a milestone in 2010. Kenya took an important step forward when Kenyans voted in favour of a new constitution that set out a Bill of Rights, created a National Land Commission, and de-centralised political power: a vote many Kenyans saw as paving the way for greater government accountability and a fairer distribution of resources.

In addition to, and in some cases as a result of, the new constitution, Kenya also saw a property boom, a rise in remittances, a record year for tourism and a projected 4.9 % GDP growth in 2010.

Tourism growth

In 2009 Africa was the only continent to see a rise in the number of international tourist arrivals - with travellers increasing by 5% - compared to decrease of 4% worldwide. In 2010 the World Cup in South Africa and increased political stability in Kenya contributed to a growth in tourism on the continent. Other countries to see growth in tourism include Zimbabwe, Angola and Mauritius. Sierra Leone also saw tourists, in small numbers, returning eight years after fighting ended in the western African country.

HIV/Aids and other pandemics

Africa has also gone a long way to improving its image as continent of death and disease. Contributing to a global decline in the rate of new HIV infections, a report from UNAIDS shows that 22 countries in sub-Saharan Africa have reduced new HIV infections by more than 25 percent. The development and improved availability of medical treatment for HIV also lead to a slight improvement in life expectancy in southern Africa.

Going green

While 190 nations are gathered in Cancun, Mexico until 10 December for the 16th Conference of the Parties to the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change, there is a growing awareness of the possible benefits green energy and protecting the environment can bring to Africa.

Some exciting developments from the past year include:

•The launch of a green wall, or transcontinental 7,000-km tree planting project, reaching from Senegal to Djibouti in east Africa;
•New onshore wind farms on four islands in the Cape Verde archipelago, planned to be the first large scale wind project on the continent and the first renewable energy public private partnership in sub-Saharan Africa;
•Huge investor interest in Morocco's $9 billion solar power scheme;
•Research this week showed the number of endangered mountain gorillas in national parks straddling Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo has increased by 26 percent in the last seven years, a sign that conservation efforts are paying off

2011: a brighter future beckons

Another newsletter of the same length could be written about progress and innovation in Africa during the past year, specifically on the difference media and mobile technology is making to the lives of many.

While the World Cup gave the world a glimpse of the potential hidden behind the barrage of negative images from Africa, it is our hope that the year 2011 will offer undeniable evidence of a continent changing, growing and developing for the better. If some of the positive trends continue, we hope to see increased regional integration and trade between African countries, more life-changing innovation, and economic growth channelled by good governance to improve the lives of Africans across the continent.

2010 news story recap courtesy Africa - The Good News. Check their site for the full listing of 2010's best stories.

Photos courtesy Africa - The Good News, Kent Redding, Gretchen Healey

Kigali to Buhoma - Gretchen's trip report #2

Rwanda was the second stop on my most recent African journey. A quick flight of just over an hour from Nairobi, Kigali is the vibrant capital city spread out over several hills and located in the center of the country. Its population is nearing a million residents, yet is one of the cleanest African capital cities I have visited, and has a very welcoming feel to it. Kigalis central location also means you can get to most other areas in Rwanda within a day with its notably good roads.

I stayed in the recently renovated Kigali Serena. They are putting the finishing touches on the renovation, however the bulk of the work is complete. The new rooms are smartly furnished with little luxuries like large, sunken baths, flat screen tv's and some are extra large with sitting areas and balconies. There is a great workout facility and a very nice outdoor pool. There are two dining options; a more formal buffet restaurant as well as a more casual open air restaurant next to the pool. The food was excellent at both. There was live entertainment poolside one evening during my visit, which provided a nice atmosphere.

From Kigali, I travelled overland to Buhoma in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda. The roads are good throughout Rwanda and the border crossing into Uganda is very easy. From the main road turnoff towards Buhoma the roads deteriorate, however. This journey isn't required to be done via vehicle; we can also arrange flights to an airstrip only an hour's drive from Buhoma. That said, the drive is very beautiful and interesting; there are people out and about everywhere (including on market day in the photo here) and on the more rural roads nearly everyone greeted the vehicle with a smile, a wave or a shout.

Along the roadside, you will see people and intensive subsistence agriculture. Crops such as banana, sorghum, millet and beans dominate the hillsides, and people are working in the fields or transporting goods along the roads. Driving will take you from these agricultural areas one moment and into the 25,000-year-old rainforest the next where you might see animals such as the black-and-white Colobus monkey or forest elephant. You'll pass through villages and see more common creatures such as cows, dogs and chickens. Eventually, you will reach Buhoma and the Bwindi park headquarters.

During my time in Buhoma, I stayed at Gorilla Forest Camp. This camp is situated within the park boundary and will get you to the headquarters with little fuss on the morning of your trekking. The camp has only 8 tents, each with lots of elbow room. The tents have comfortable beds, verandahs, and full en-suite bathrooms with both shower and huge soaking tubs which are kitted out with candleabra if you are
inclined to have a hot bath after a hard day of trekking. The common area is close by and consists of a lively bar/lounge area as well as a dining area. The camp is known to sometimes have the occasional forest visitor, so you might get a lucky sighting staying here.

I double checked my bag for my trekking accessories; I brought long pants, a long sleeved shirt, a hat, gaiters and sturdy gloves for the trek, and I was glad for each of them, though I didn't discover all of the reasons for each of them until the next day.

Next installment: Gorilla trekking to find the 'H' group and a local community visit

Photos courtesy Serena Hotels and Gretchen Healey

Nairobi - Gretchen's East Africa trip report #1

It's not often that a person designs a trip to include a layover on purpose, but I've always believed that it's worth making the most of any stop. On my most recent visit to East Africa, I had an overnight layover in Nairobi and arranged it so that I could visit a few of the highlights.

Upon a very late arrival, I was greeted at the airport and transferred to my hotel, the Ole-Sereni. It's only a few minutes ride from Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, which was welcome after a long journey.

The hotel sits on Nairobi National Park, the only national park in the world with a suburban location. The standard rooms are cosy but well appointed with a view of the city. Ole-Sereni also offers deluxe and club rooms as well as suites, with options that face the national park. After a good sleep, I enjoyed watching giraffes feeding in the park from my breakfast table on the hotel terrace. This hotel is a good choice for a late arrival into the city for a brief stay.

I only had a half day to explore, so chose two things I knew I would enjoy; the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust and the Giraffe Center. This was followed by lunch near a famous landmark before heading back to the aiport for my flight to Kigali.

My first stop was the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, which I timed so that I could witness the baby elephants having their breakfast with a bit of playtime afterward. We were escorted to an area with a muddy watering hole and the elephants arrived with their caretakers. The staff gave an excellent talk about the history of the center, its mission and the plight of orphaned animals. We learned about the individual elephants and enjoyed watching them be bottle fed; it's really something to see! They then proceeded to romp around in the mud, cooling themselves and playing games (including soccer!) with one another.

The good news story here is that all of the animals at the Trust (there are more than elephants) are being rehabilitated and will one day be released back into the wild.

Next stop was the Giraffe Center. This center is an important breeding center for the endangered Rothschild giraffe and is run by the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife. Its purpose is to create awareness and to provide education aimed at encouraging its guests to appreciate and conserve Kenya's precious biodiversity. While visiting, there are several activities on offer including hand-feeding or even having a kiss from the Rothschild giraffes, which is really quite an experience!

If the giraffe is your favorite animal, you might consider staying at the excellent Giraffe Manor next door. You might just find a giraffe outside your window in the morning!

I ended my all too brief visit to Nairobi with lunch on the lawns of the Karen Blixen Coffee Garden. It's near the attractions I visited in the Nairobi suburb of Karen, and just down the way from the Karen Blixen Museum. The food is excellent; I thoroughly enjoyed my hand-thrown pizza with a cold Tusker.

I look forward to a longer visit next time; there is a lot to do and see in Nairobi. It was good to whet my appetite for the future.

Photos and video - Gretchen and Phil Healey

African Roast Rib of Beef with Cumin

Thinking of putting an African twist on your holiday menu? Try this recipe for roast beef from Ngala Safari Lodge in Ngala Private Game Reserve, which is situated within Kruger National Park in South Africa.

The world-famous Kruger National Park is South Africa’s largest game reserve and one of the finest wildlife sanctuaries on the planet. It has nearly two million hectares (almost five million acres) of unfenced African wilderness, in which more mammal species roam free than in any other game reserve. Kruger offers visitors fantastic Big Five sightings, endangered game such as the African wild dog. It is also a paradise for birders with 500 species. You'll want to call us to start planning a visit after you've made your African Roast Beef!

African Roast Rib of Beef with Cumin

Roast Beef

1x4kg rib of beef - on the bone

45 ml cumin seeds

45 ml sea salt

Roasted Beetroot

2kg beetroot - small to medium sized

15 ml caraway seeds

10 ml vegetable oil

125 ml sherry vinegar

5 ml brown sugar

To roast the beef:

Allow the beef to stand, covered, at room temperature for two hours before cooking. Preheat oven to 220C. Rub beef all over with the cumin and a generous amount of salt. Please the meat bone side down on a roasting tray and place in the oven. Roast for 10 minutes. Turn oven down to 160C and start timing: 2 hours 20 min for medium rare; 2 hours 40 minutes for medium and 3 hours for well done. Once the beef is cooked to your liking, remove it from the oven and allow it to rest in a warm place for at least 20 minutes. Serve with roasted beetroot.

To roast the beetroot:

Wash beetroot and trim, leaving 5cm of stalk. Place in boiling salted water and cook until almost done. Drain, cool, and roll skins off with fingers. Toss with caraway seeds, oil, sherry vinegar and brown sugar. Place in a roasting tray and roast in a preheated 180C oven for 20 minutes (while the beef is resting). Serve with pan juices.

Serves 12

Seychelles International Carnival of Victoria!

It is an initiative that echoes the fact that since the days of its first settlement, Seychelles has always been a rich melting pot of people from the far reaches of the planet. In 2011, Seychelles is set to become the stage for representatives of the world’s most prestigious carnivals.

The Seychelles International Carnival of Victoria will be held over a three-day period in March 2011, when it will become a focal point for representatives from the world’s most famous carnivals who will be invited to the islands to take part in this exciting international event.

Promising to be the focus of international as well as local attention, the Seychelles International Carnival of Victoria will feature a procession of colourful floats representing the various participants’ national carnivals, as well as a raft of other dedicated activities all of which will fall under the Carnival’s theme.

The event is sure to be a crowd-pleaser, as it brings the lively ambiance of international carnival time to the islands, but it's hardly the only reason to visit. Traditionally associated with the most beautiful beaches on the planet, the Seychelles islands are at the top of the world’s list of romantic destinations. Only 5 hours from Johannesburg and 3 hours from Nairobi, the Seychelles offer superb sailing, diving, snorkeling, excellent fishing, nature trails and of course, great beaches. Call us to plan your customized visit to Seychelles for a romantic retreat or for the Carnival!

Photos courtesy Seychelles.Travel

Wildlife update from Chada Katavi

We had a very exciting update from our partners at Chada Katavi camp in Western Tanzania. They've had lots of elephant activity in camp in recent months much to the delight of guests. This week, they had an even more exciting in-camp visit from some local lions. Here's the latest scoop directly from the camp managers!

Since everyone is getting tired of hearing about the elephants in Chada camp all the time, we decided to spice things up a bit. And since the animals haven’t yet figured out that we are trying to run a camp and host our safari guests in this little woodland overlooking the plains, they sometimes don’t let us get much sleep at night.

As if the incessant whooping of hyenas, prattling of the bushbabies and rumbling of the elephants wasn’t enough, the hippos and lions came to camp and had a major brawl the other night. It started at 2 a.m. with lions roaring. Then everyone heard the hippos snorting and hooting, and from then on there wasn’t much sleeping going on.

By 2:30, things were quieting down, until there was a very loud clatter which sounded remarkably similar to the time someone dropped a tray of cups, saucers and pots upon coming face to face with an elephant while delivering a dawn wake-up call to tent 4. But this was not wake-up call time. mean, if someone really wants to get up at 2:30 a.m. that’s fine; after all, we try to be very accommodating here at Chada.

Big clatter heard by the whole camp, then some growling and grunting. Hippos and lions, fighting. We assumed that the tall shelves holding our wine glasses, snifters and tumblers had just been knocked over by a fleeing hippo through the dining tent wall. Then our radio began to call my name, “Mark, Mark, Mark.” We were already awake, and Kristen said, “Alfred is calling you,” Alfred is our fearless night guard. Every morning I ask him the same question, “How did you sleep?” He laughs, every morning, and shakes his head and says, “I didn’t sleep.”

Alfred, whats happening?” “Lions are trying to kill a hippo at the mess tent". We tried to go back to sleep, but twice more we heard loud banging noises, like wood being thrown around. Assuming that would be our lovely tables in the mess, we were seriously wondering what we would find at dawn. At 5:15, the radio goes again, this time a housekeeper was asking Alfred to come with a better torch because he can hear lions but can’t see anything. We dressed and headed out into the darkness, walking slowly and shining well ahead, stopping briefly to look at a beautiful cat snake crossing the path with it’s iridescent head glowing blue-green in the torch light. Then Kristen heard that classic fast heavy panting of a well-fed lion off to our right. I called Alfred and asked if all the lions were at the mess tent. He said there was one near tent 4 also. I answered that WE were by tent 4.

The housekeeper, Tano, had been heading to room 5 and heard it, then Alfred had come and they saw it in their torchlight. Thanks for the heads up! We moved away and went the long way to the kitchen. Issuing radios and good torches to the housekeepers, we sent one housekeeper back to the staff quarters to ask Maripet to come up so we could issue him a rifle, then we started checking the area to see where the lions were. Most were at the mess tent, where we could now tell they had killed something and were feeding. It was still too dark to see, but the sounds of their growling at each other and crunching and gnawing were plain to hear.

Maripet and I went to have a look at tents 4 and 5 at first light. Tent 5’s wake-up call was already late, and we didn’t want any impatient guests stumbling out to find a coffee. Maripet asked me to switch off my torch so he could see better in the dawn grey, and when I did, he pointed into the bushes between tents 4 and 5 and we saw a male lion walking away toward tent 5. We went back, got the housekeepers, and walked together to tent 4. When we told Charles and Marie Lou in tent 4 that there were lions in camp, he started laughing and she said, “Oh really?” This being their 28th year on safari, they knew what was going on throughout the night.

Telling them we’d be back at 6:30 to escort them to their game drive cars, we headed for tent 5. Again Maripet pointed into the bush and the male lion was walking away again, not pleased to be near humans on foot. A similar routine at tent 5, with an apology for the late delivery of the wake-up call, which elicited some sleepy laughter from Miloud and Pierre. Being told to wait for our return to escort them to their landrover, Pierre said, “Oui, oui. Don’t worry, I don’t go outside this tent!” Meanwhile, now knowing the lions were at the mess tent feeding, Kristen and Alfred went to tent 1 with a similar message for Alessandra and Antonella, “We’ll come back and escort you to your game drive cars.” They were pleasantly surprised when their guide, Emmanuel, showed up at their tent door with his landrover.

At 6:30, we could finally see what was going on at the mess. One side of the tent was pulled down, and five lionesses were feeding on a smallish hippo, right against the tent. Knowing how nervous lions are at seeing us on foot, and by contrast how relaxed they are in the presence of our open landrovers, the guides brought the landies around behind the kitchen and we did the same with the guests. The last thing we wanted was to have a sleepless night and no payoff at the end, so the rule of the morning was: no one must be seen walking anywhere beyond the kitchen within view of the lions. So in what we believe might be the shortest game drives in the history of Chada Katavi, we drove our landrovers 100 metres to the mess tent, switched off the engines and sat disbelieving as we took in the scene. Eventually the male showed up too, having skirted the tents and come back to the kill, so there were six lions sitting outside our damaged mess, feasting.

Want some excitement of your own? You can visit Chada Katavi on our Wildest Tanania safari or we can customize a safari for you. Call us to investigate your options.

Photos and report courtesy Nomad Tanzania

Swahili - lesson six

The lesson you've been waiting for - Swahili names for animals you'll see on safari! Some of these you will no doubt recognize as they have been made popular in movies and pop culture. Others may be new to you. Work on them and you'll be at the head of the class while on safari!

Nyani Baboon

Nyati Buffalo

Duma Cheetah

Mamba Crocodile

Tembo Elephant

Twiga Giraffe

Koboko Hippo

Fisi Hyena

Chui Leopard

Simba Lion

Nyani Monkey

Nungunungu Porcupine

Mbuni Ostrich

Kifaru Rhino

Nyoka Snake

Ngiri Warthog

Nyumbu Wildebeest

Punda Milia Zebra

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

Kim’s East Africa Trip – Report #2

Tarangire National Park was rich with wildlife and charm. We met Frederick and Hashim, our trusty Tanzanian driver guides for the next seven days, at the Kuro Airstrip and headed in our pop-top 4x4 Land Cruisers into the bush on an hour game drive to Swala Camp. Along the thicket of acacia trees, we were greeted by elephant, Cape buffalo, zebra, giraffe, warthog, kudu, waterbuck, impala, and even a tiny tortoise. We were also unpleasantly greeted by the ever-dreaded tsetse flies, which are more prevalent in wooded areas. The best way to combat these pesky flies is to be pro-active – apply bug spray in advance (some people think it works), wear long pants and long sleeves, and avoid dark colors (black & navy blue which attracts the flies). Swala Camp can also be reached by road from Arusha – about a two hour drive to the park gate and then another 2.5 to 3 hour game drive into camp. We comfortably settled in at the luxury, 12-tented camp, nestled among a canopy of acacia trees before hopping into Swala’s 7-seater open air vehicles for an exhilarating night drive. After refreshing sundowners on a bluff, we continued our exploration for nocturnal activity and luckily spotted bush babies, zebras and one tiny chameleon perched on a branch. Back at camp, we were wined and dined (Swala is all-inclusive) by the friendly staff with gourmet food, a table set under the stars and the gentle chorus of a lion roaring in the very close distance!

Waking in hopes that the serenading lions were not too far away (fingers crossed we would spot them), we started our morning game drive through Tarangire, admiring the stunning scenery. Tarangire is not only known for its hefty herds of elephants but also for the striking baobab trees which stand tall along the horizon. There was also quite a bit of vulture activity as these scavengers were sharing a carcass with some Marabou storks. Along with the mighty baobabs, an abundance of resident game made for brilliant photos as we headed north. Other properties in the area include Tarangire Sopa Lodge (75 rooms, big pool & 10 minutes to a balloon launch site) and Tarangire Safari Lodge (35 tents, 5 bungalows & 15 minutes to the park gate). In my opinion, Tarangire Safari Lodge has the best views in the park, overlooking the Tarangire River. The camp is situated high on a bluff so that each tent and the outdoor lounge/boma look out over the river – you could spend all day on your verandah watching as the animals come and go to this dominant water source. Higher end choices include Oliver’s Camp (8 luxury tents offering specialty walking safaris) and Tarangire Treetops (20 suites, on a private game reserve bordering Tarangire NP).

En route to the Ngorongoro Highlands, our scenery changed from the local wildlife to the local culture. As the land became more lush and green, we observed the agricultural way of life. Local markets with colorful fruits and vegetables lined the road, and more bicycles, now toting bundles of green bananas, pedaled along. Mto Wa Mbu village, just minutes from Lake Manyara, is the perfect spot to enjoy a cultural visit during your safari. You can then continue on a game drive through Lake Manyara National Park to see the soda lake, pink flamingos and, with luck, tree-climbing lions. Some lodging options in the area include the Lake Manyara Serena (67 rooms & 5 minutes from the LM airstrip), Kirurumu Tented Lodge (23 tented rooms & stunning views of Lake Manyara). In Karatu, near the Ngorongoro Conservation Area border, choices include Gibb’s Farm (20 cottages, located on the slopes of a working farm), Plantation Lodge (16 rooms with flowering gardens & the intimacy of a owner-run lodge), and very luxurious, The Manor at Ngorongoro (5-star property nestled high up on a coffee plantation, 18 standard rooms & 1 stable cottage with private chef & butler). We ended our day at the Ngorongoro Farm House, which is a well-appointed lodge with 51 rooms, sustainable vegetable garden, wildly landscaped gardens and decent food. We rested well in preparation for our following big day in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

Pangolin!

Everyone that has been on safari knows that the most elusive animal isn't one of the big five, or even one of the 'little five'. It's the pangolin. That's why this game report from Kapinga Camp in the Busanga Plains of Zambia is so special!

As part of my continued lion research here on the Busanga Plains, it means that I spend many hours in the field. Although it can get tiring, and conditions are sometimes quite tough, it is also very rewarding...

Sitting with the Papyrus Pride of lions a few evenings ago, I noticed that one of the lions was staring intently in one direction. I had a look with my binoculars and nearly fell out of the vehicle! To my utter amazement, there was a pangolin moving through the grass! First one I've ever seen, and that in daylight!

I drove closer to about 15m away, and the pangolin proceeded to walk straight towards the vehicle until he was behind the front wheel. He was very relaxed so I got out of the vehicle to take more pictures. The pangolin suddenly realised that he had company, and perhaps feeling threatened rolled into a ball and really displayed his spiny scales. I quickly retreated, and then he snuck off into the longer grass again. Absolutely awesome experience and one of my best since being here!

Pangolins are found in Asia and Africa, but there is only one species to be found in south-central Africa - the Temminck's or ground pangolin. It is covered with hard scales of the nail protein keratin, feeds on termites, and is secretive, nocturnal, small and endangered.

Sightings are therefore rare and when they do occur, there is much excitement - the Busanga Plains seems to be producing infrequent sightings of these special mammals and a better chance than most in seeing them.

Report and photos courtesy Neil Midlane & Wilderness Safaris

Kim’s East Africa Trip – Report #1

I just returned on Sunday from an amazing 15-day trip through Kenya, Tanzania and Zanzibar – my first trip with Africa Adventure Consultants. Being back in East Africa was better than I expected. How can you ever fully prepare yourself for the grandeur of the African plains, the majesty of animals roaming free, and the warmth and color of the local cultures? Yet again, I was left breathless, in awe. Above all, I think that the African skies are my favorite of anywhere in the world. My oldest sister, Kelly, was my original inspiration for traveling to Africa, and when I was with her in the Limpopo region of South Africa in 2004, she made me listen to the sunset. Traveling in East Africa during the short rains offered some of the most dramatic skies I’ve ever seen. And thanks to my sister, I remembered to listen to the setting African sun as it burned orange, pink and purple across the silent savannahs. And thanks to a very busy travel schedule, I greeted each new day with spectacular sunrises.

After a short rest at the Mayfair Hotel in Nairobi, we headed in two minibuses (a.k.a. an African matatu) with Henry and George (our Kenyan guides) to Amboseli National Park, known for its huge herds of large-tusked elephants and unparalleled views of Mt. Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa. The African minibuses are clean and comfortable, have 4WD to allow for harsh road conditions, and a pop-up roof for better wildlife viewing; however, if at all possible, I highly recommended upgrading to an open-air, 4x4 Land Rover for your safari experience. We stayed at Satao Elerai Safari Camp, located on a private conservancy about an hour south of the gate to Amboseli NP. The camp has 9 luxury, mountain facing tents and 5 luxurious, lodge-style suites (the tents are a must!). Although it is a bit far from the park entrance, the advantages of being in a private conservancy include bush sundowners, night game drives and game walks. The staff was friendly, the food was tasty and the views of Mt. Kilimanjaro from the 9 tents should have been stunning (if only Mt. Kili had come out from behind the clouds!).

Other lodging options in the area include Amboseli Sopa Lodge (83 rooms, located outside of the park) and the Amboseli Serena Lodge (92 rooms, located inside the park). A few more intimate tented camps are Tortilis Camp, or farther out, ol Donyo Lodge.

Wildlife is less abundant during November and December, as well as in March and April due the rains. Although we did spot giant elephant, ostrich, giraffe, hyena, vervet monkeys, baboon, wildebeest, Thomson gazelles and an abundance of birds, it is actually better to visit this elephant haven during the dry season in January, February, and July through October. We exited the park and an hour later along bumpy, gravel roads, we reached the Namanga border to Tanzania – bidding Kenya farewell for now, purchasing our Tanzania visas, and hopping into our pop-top, 4x4 Land Rovers, all in a matter of 20 minutes. The two hour drive to Arusha was a combination of paved and dirt roads, as the road construction in East Africa seems endless, but thankfully, the roads were also lined with colorful villages, bicycles toting 2 to 3 passengers along with stacks of wood, and women miraculously balancing buckets of water on their heads.

After brushing the dust off our clothes, we made a quick visit to the Arusha Coffee Lodge, which is the perfect spot for relaxation either pre or post safari or before catching a flight. All of the 18 standard rooms and 12 suites offer posturepedic mattresses, choice of hard or soft pillows, and an indoor fireplace (just to name a few amenities) all tucked along the well groomed grounds of a coffee plantation. We enjoyed a delicious BBQ lunch at the Shanga River Lodge and a quick stop in their divine gift shop, which supports disabled Tanzanians, before boarding our 12-seater, Air Excel Cessna for a scenic (yet bumpy) 20 minute flight to the heart of Tarangire National Park. From here, our true wildlife safari began.

Photos courtesy Kim Dodson

Breakfast Rusks

Rusks are dry biscuits traditionally eaten by South Africans and dunked in their early morning tea or coffee. They were introduced by the Dutch as a long-lasting alternative to bread. Before departing on your morning game drive, you are offered a light breakfast to sustain you until your morning tea break or your late morning brunch. Rusks are something you might enjoy on your tea break in the bush.

Rusks

Makes 36

Adapted from 'The African Kitchen' by Josie Stow and Jan Baldwin

Ingredients

9 c self-rising flour

4 tsp baking powder

2 tsp salt

2 1/4 sticks butter, chopped

3 c light brown sugar

2 c sunflower seeds

3 c All-Bran cereal, crushed

A handful of raisins or dried currants

1 tbsp aniseed

2 1/4 c buttermilk

1/2 c sunflower or canola oil

2 eggs, beaten

Special Equipment

Shallow baking dishes

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 350

2. Mix together self-rising flour, baking powder, sald and butter until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs.

3. Add the sugar, sunflower seeds, crushed cereal, dried fruit and aniseed.

4. In a bowl, mix together the buttermilk, oil and eggs.

5. Add the milk mixture to the flour mixture and stir to form a dough.

6. User your hands to shape the dough into 36 balls and place them closely together in two rows on each baking dish.

7. Bake for 1 hour or until a skewer inserted in the dough comes out clean and the base sounds hollow when tapped.

8. Remove the dishes and set aside to cool on a wire rack.

9. Separate the rusks and leave them to dry out completely in a very low oven (250 degrees)

10. Allow rusks to cool before storing in an airtight container.

Serve with tea or coffee during your midmorning game drive break!

Photo courtesy Gretchen Healey

Swahili - lesson five

Today we're getting started on words and phrases you might use on safari. Take note and practice well. Your guide will be impressed!

Ni salama Kwenda kwa miguu huko? Is it safe to walk there?

Ni umbali gani kwenda...? How far is it to...?

Ni kitu gani kile...? What kind of ... is that?

Mnyama/ndege/mauwa/mti animal/bird/flower/tree

mlima/milimani mountain/mountain range

iwa lake

mbuga savannah

jia track

hifadhi ya mazingira nature reserve

mbingu sky

nyota star

jua sun

mvua rain

Next lesson will cover Swahili names for animals you will likely see on safari. Stay tuned!

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

Botswana game report

Today we have some recent game reports from Wilderness Safaris, one of our partners in Botswana.

On a recent game drive from DumaTau Camp in northern Botswana we came across the Savuti Pride of lions, which consists of two sub-adult males, both approximately two years old, and an adult female which is their mother. While watching the pride, one of the young males started chewing on an acacia thorn tree branch.

Young lions are inquisitive by nature and have been observed playing with and chewing many things such as fallen branches, twigs, tortoise shells and even elephant dung. Lions of all ages have also on occasion seen eating grass thought to be ingested as an aid to help settle upset stomachs.

What made this sighting particularly unusual is that it is uncommon to see a lion chewing on a branch covered in thorns. As the photograph clearly shows, the youngster was clearly finding a mouth full of thorns distinctly unappetising!

And from Tubu Hide we have this report:

The hide on Hunda Island is proving to be alluring to our resident leopards. At the beginning of this year there was a special sighting of a big male leopard relaxing on the hide. Several months later it has happened again!

As guests were driving up to the hide they stopped to look at a Hamerkop bird nest when a guest spotted one of Tubu's young leopards up on the hide. He was strutting his stuff, claiming to be the prince of the hide.

It was quite special; however it was only the start of the sighting. The young leopard watched the safari vehicle pull up a little closer and then decided to investigate the vehicle. The guide stopped and as they watched, the leopard came down from the hide and slowly walked towards the game viewer checking out one side before coming in front and to the driver's tire. He rubbed up against it and posed for a nice picture before heading off.

It was quite ironic as this hide was constructed to observe wildlife from it, not in or on it! The guests were left sitting with their mouths wide open, but this special sighting didn't stop there. As they followed the young leopard, he lead them to his mother and sister. The mother was out of breath from taking down an impala, and our youngster proceeded to feed with the family.

To visit Duma Tau or Tubu Tree, call us to start planning your Botswana safari!

Samp

Samp is a common ingredient in Xhosa cooking. Samp is cracked hominy and hominy are dried corn kernels. In South Africa, samp and beans (umngqusho) is one of the traditional dishes of the Xhosa people, and was reported to be one of Nelson Mandela’s favorite meals growing up.

You can serve cooked samp and beans with sautéed or fried onions, with butter, or with any sauce of your choosing. If you are unable to find samp, you could substitue hominy that you crack yourself. Try putting it in a plastic ziploc, and cracking it with a rolling pin, or heavy skillet.

You can of course make many other dishes featuring samp. Try the following salad, which would make an excellent side dish for a grilled steak, or a nice vegetarian entree on its own.

Samp Salad

100g lettuce
2 celery stalks
1/2 small pineapple
1/2 cucumber
1/2 Granny Smith apple
50g Cheddar Cheese
2c cooked, rinsed samp
salt and pepper to taste

Dressing

1/4c plain yogurt
1tsp fine sugar
squeeze lemon juice

Slice celery thinly. Cut apple, cucumber and pineapple into cubes. Combine all ingredients in a large bowl.

Stir dressing ingredients together, then mix in with the salad ingredients. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled.

Swahili - lesson four

Have you been practicing your Swahili? We've had three lessons so far. We have focused on greetings, basic expressions and making friends. Today, we will add a few more expressions and phrases that you might find useful in your travels.

Nina furaha. I'm happy.

Nina njaa. I'm hungry.

Nini kiu. I'm thirsty.

Nisaidie tafadhali? Can you help me?

Nimechoka. I'm tired.

Ni maridadi. It's beautiful.

Hii bei gani? How much is this?

Nikupatie kinywaji? Can I get you a drink?

Ni joto/baridi. It's hot/cold.

Natumai tutakutana tena. I hope we'll meet again.

Safari njema! Have a good trip!

Mbona unachecka? Why are you laughing?

Kivi kiswahili changu kibaya hivyo? Is my Swahili that bad?

That's all for today. Stay tuned for lesson five where we will look at some words and phrases that will come in most handy while on safari.

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

Holiday gift ideas

Stumped about what to get your loved ones this holiday season? We have some ideas for you!

Guidebooks are always a good bet for the traveller. If they already have a guidebook for their upcoming trip, you might try some fiction that takes place in the country they are visiting. For history buffs, there are lots of great books available on African history.

TravelSmith always has excellent safari gear on offer, as well as the latest gadgets and gizmos, even for the pickiest traveller. Mention key code FH9001 for 10% off, courtesy of Africa Adventure Consultants. Magellan's and ExOfficio are also great resources for safari clothes and travel gear.

For the 8-10 year old set, Somebody Like Me is the perfect gift. Written by Ashley Shuyler of Africaid and Prisca Lesakire, an Africaid scholar, this book tells the story of two young women who grew up on different continents, in different cultures. Not only will the kids enjoy it, a portion of the proceeds will benefit Africaid and its programs for girls' education in Tanzania.

A microloan is a great way to honor someone and to make a difference at the same time. To support education in Africa, you could consider a donation to our partner organization AfricAid. Alternatively, you can help 'end the book famine' in Africa with a donation to Books for Africa. Another way to change a life would be to give the gift of a camel (or a 'share' of a camel) to a Maasai family in Tanzania through the Heifer organization.

A new camera is always a welcome surprise for any traveller. We especially like the Panasonic DMC-FZ35 for its 18x optical zoom. It also does a nice job of basic video and has a very reasonable price tag. For the more serious photographer, we have a camera recommendations blog you can check out for some great ideas on what to bring with you on safari.

And finally...a safari. No doubt about it, this would be the 'ultimate' gift, and something that would be remembered for a lifetime. You know you can call us so we can work together to build the perfect trip for that special someone.

Good luck with your shopping and best wishes this holiday season!