Book Review - A Guide to the Birds of East Africa - A Novel

A Guide to the Birds of East Africa by Nicholas Drayson is a thoroughly charming read. It is about a widower named Mr. Malik and his unannounced love of another widower, Rose Mbikwa. They live in Nairobi and met during a weekly educational bird walk of which Rose was the leader.

The story gets interesting when Mr. Malik finally decides to do something about his secret crush; he plans to ask Rose to a ball. Trouble arises when his childhood nemesis makes an appearance and announces his intent to ask Rose to the same event.

Amusement ensues as a wager is made to determine which gentleman be allowed to ask Ms. Mbikwa to the ball. I won't reveal anything else so as to avoid any spoilers. Suffice it to say, it's a very satisfactory story. It paints a vivid picture of Nairobi as well as many other parts of Kenya. It also introduces the reader to a very endearing character in Mr. Malik.

Somewhat in the tradition and feel of the No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency series, but with its own special voice and characters; this book is sure to please.

Poached Guavas

We're keeping it sweet this week with a recipe for poached guava fruit, a Cape Malay recipe adapted from The South African Illustrated Cookbook by Lehla Eldridge.

Poached Guava
Serves 4

1.5c sugar
1.5c water
3 pieces stick cinnamon
5 whole cloves
8 guavas, peeled

Dissolve the sugar in the water with the cinnamon and cloves. Boil for 10 minutes or until a syrup forms. Reduce heat and add the guavas whole to the syrup. Poach gently for 10 minutes, until pink.

This dessert is traditionally served with evaporated milk.

Book Review - When She Was White

When She Was White is the fascinating true story of the life of a woman born and raised in South Africa during apartheid. What makes the story compelling is that Sandra Liang's race was reclassified more than once, resulting in a drastic change in the course of her existence.

Born to white parents and registered as 'white' at her birth, people complained of her physical characteristics during her rural youth, eventually leading to a reclassification as 'coloured' at the age of 10. This prompted the all-white school she attended to kick her out, and she was removed from the world of white privilege as well.

This was devastating for Sandra's family and they fought bitterly to have her race changed back to white. It eventually was, after a change in the law that made descent the determination of race, rather than physical appearance and community acceptance, but by then it was too late.

The story follows Sandra's life via her own recollections and of those who knew her, and unfolds in a tragic tale of the impact of the race classification system in apartheid South Africa. Some of the stories are muddled and conflicting due to the different sources, but the author still manages to weave an interesting albeit somewhat incomplete tale.

When She Was White is a fascinating read for anyone interested in the history of South Africa and the impact that apartheid had on the average family.

H.O.P.E. for an Unreached World

Long time Africa Adventure Consultants client Sandra Washburn serves on the board of directors for a charity involved with community transformation throughout the globe. Her particular work focuses on Uganda. H.O.P.E. for an Unreached World is pursuing 501c3 status, but isn't waiting for it to be finalized to get their feet on the ground working and to make a positive impact.

Sandra leaves for a trip to Uganda to visit the communities that HOPE works within next week. Gulu is located in Northern Uganda, and the district has been the location of much of the insurgent fighting by the Lord's Resistance Army. Over 90% of the district population was displaced, mostly into camps clustered around towns and trading centers. To avoid abduction by the LRA thousands of children used to travel from rural areas to seek refuge in towns every night. There has been relative peace since 2007, so people can now focus on healing and community rebuilding.

Sandra is soliciting donations for some low cost items that can make a big impact. $16 purchases either a basketball (which are in short supply in Uganda!) or a talking watch for the blind. $8 purchases a braille atlas. Either amount makes a big difference.

In the evenings, basketball practice takes place at Karauna Ground (the municipal park). The men’s team are called the Gulu Hawks and are a registered team in division two basketball league. The women's team is in the process of being formally organized. They are considering the name Gulu Pride for their team in honor of the teamwork exhibited by lionesses as they hunt.

There are 26 blind students at Gulu Primary, 18 blind students at Gulu High School and 6 blind students on HOPE scholarships at various secondary schools in Uganda. There are over 40 blind people outside of school-age within the community as well. During past projects, HOPE has had white canes custom made for blind community members, then instructed people in their use. Now they hope to distribute talking watches and atlases to those same community members.

To make a donation (and a difference!) to HOPE, visit their website.

Kashata

Today's recipe is sweet rather than savory. Kashata are popular during the holidays throughout East Africa. Make some as a sweet treat to end a meal this weekend.

2/3 c sugar
1/2 tsp cinnamon
2 c grated coconut or 1/2 lb unsalted peanuts, finely chopped

1. In a heavy skillet, heat the sugar until it melts (10-15 min), stirring constantly. The sugar will become dark brown and syrupy as it melts.
2. Add the cinnamon and the coconut or peanuts.
3. Cook for 2 minutes, or until the sugar turns light brown.
4. Remove from heat and let cool.
5. When mix is cool enough to handle, form 1-inch balls and place on wax paper until set.

Makes about 20 balls.

Recipe adapted from 'Cooking the East African Way' by Bertha Vinig Montgomery and Constance Nabwire

Book Review - From Microsoft to Malawi

This book is one of the stars of the Peace Corps genre of stories (there are scores of Peace Corps books out there, quite a few of which focus on assignments in Africa). Michael Buckler leaves his comfortable, corporate life for the Peace Corps after a personal shake up prompts him to pursue a calling with deeper meaning. What he discovers is that he not only has much to offer, but much to learn. This 'diary' of his two year assignment to a village in rural Malawi paints a vivid portrait of the country and its people, as well as the struggle a Westerner faces during such an incredible lifestyle change.

A wonderful bonus of purchasing this book is that the proceeds will fund the educations of three boys he met and tutored during his time in country.

It's a quick and enjoyable read that will keep you captivated by its simple storytelling style, and by getting to know the wonderful people that Buckler meets and develops relationships with along with way.

April Mara Game Report - part 2

Part 2 of the Mara game report from our partners at Governor's Camp in Kenya. Call us to plan your visit to this special area!

Rhinos, as usual, have remained the more elusive of the Big Five. Even so, two males and a female with a three month old calf were seen fairly regularly between Chemorita and Paradise.

Cheetahs were also less visible last month due to the movement of the bigger predators. The three brothers were seen in the Salinga area towards the middle of the month, after which they moved into the Paradise area. A young female was on Topi Plain for some time.

The big herd of buffalo that seems ever present at the western base of Rhino Ridge was still very prominent last month. They too have many youngsters at foot. These grand beasts are often over-looked but can offer hours of entertainment should one take the time to sit and watch them. There is a definite method to their movements and their actions that bears observation. Their interaction with various bird species can be of especially great interest.

The "little critters" remained captivating last month. Birding has been good as the avian migrants are still around, but are soon to leave. One of our guests left Kenya having seen 203 species in 10 days. No mean feat considering he only visited Lake Nakuru National Park and the Masai Mara! Of course we are all waiting for the rains to come and the wildebeest that are sure to follow. We had to be very careful where we put our feet last month as there were huge collections and processions of "siafu" (safari ants), a sure sign that this is on the way. Once again nature moves through its processes as it has since time immemorial, seemingly with no big method but definitely with a plan and an end goal. All one has to do is quietly observe and all becomes clear.

Photos courtesy of Samantha McLellan

Book Review - Casting With a Fragile Thread

Casting With a Fragile Thread is one of the best examples of a non fiction Zimbabwean coming-of-age story on shelves today. This is the story of three sisters growing up during the end of the colonialism age in Zimbabwe, as told by the eldest girl. It examines race and inequality in a frank manner, and explores the concept of 'home' not just as a place, but a feeling. Wendy Kann weaves a compelling, real-life tale of her childhood (and adulthood) that will keep you up past your bedtime.

April Mara Game Report - part 1

From our partners at Governor's Camp in the Masai Mara comes this review of game activity during April.

Once again we experienced dry weather during the first week or so of the month - it just didn't seem to want to rain! There would very often be a big build-up of clouds all along the western and north-western horizon which would raise our hopes, but the first decent, soaking rains only came fairly late in the month.

Last month's spate of rain (where it rained heavily for about four days) meant there was (and still is) lots of water in the marshes and luggas, which attracted a big collection of herbivores, especially zebra, wildebeest and elephant, in these areas.

The Marsh Pride has been seen regularly around Bila Shaka and has fed there almost every night. It is amazing to see fifteen lions all together around a kill! The lioness with her four three month old cubs was seen a number of times around Musiara Swamp. They are still fit and healthy and seem to be making progress in, to them, what must seem like a harsh world. These poor little fellows were really thirsty one day and had the unfortunate experience of all falling into the murky water! One cub was covered in mud and mewled incessantly like a distressed child!

The Paradise Pride has been seen mostly around the crossing below Serena Lodge, but on some days as far a-field as Chemorita. Notch and one male seem to have the urge to patrol more than the other males and these two have been seen between Rhino Ridge and Salinga on a number of occasions. One particular game drive vehicle was treated to the spectacle of about 16 hyenas trying to chase 6 lions off a warthog kill on the far southern reaches of Rhino Ridge. The lions were having none of it, but the noise and interaction was quite fantastic to experience!

Leopards were seen fairly regularly last month, in fact as often as three times a week. A mother with two cubs was seen around Paradise quite often and on one day five leopards were seen together. These were the same three as mentioned above with two males. Watch this space in just over three month's time. The existing cubs are close to the age where they would leave their mother, so perhaps more youngsters are on their way! Of further interest was another female leopard with a cub of three months old in the "Base" area.



Photos courtesy Katie McLellan and Samwel Kiplangat

Chicken Sosaties

It's verging on braai (barbecue) season, and every time the weather is remotely nice, we're using the grill. No one seems more serious or more passionate about grilling than South Africans; it's deeply rooted in their culture. Today, I'm sharing a recipe from a friend for 'Chicken Sosaties', or chicken skewers. This dish is more typically made with lamb, but this version requires less time to marinate and still provides a bold flavored dish. It's a simple, but tasty and rewarding dish. Enjoy!

1.5 lbs boneless, skinless chicken breast
2 tbsp olive oil
4 yellow or white onions, thinly sliced
1 tbsp hot curry powder
1 tsp coriander seeds
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp brown sugar
1 c freshly squeezed lemon juice
Wooden skewers for grilling

Cut the chicken into 3/4 inch cubes and place in a deep bowl. Heat the oil in a saucepan and fry the onions until they are lightly browned. Add remaining ingredients and cook for 2 minutes over low heat, stirring constantly until the sugar is dissolved. Allow the marinade to cool, then pour over the chicken. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for 24 hours.

Soak wooden skewers for 1 hour or more. Heat your grill to medium. Remove chicken from marinade and drain excess liquid. Place chicken on the skewers, then grill for 10 minutes, turning once, until the chicken is cooked through. A classic accompaniment would be Mrs. Ball's chutney, but any chutney will do. A crisp, lemony arugula salad is nice alongside.

Serves 4

Book Review - African Air

This stunning book of photography should be on every Africa-lover's coffee table. National Geographic photographer George Steinmetz captures fourteen different African countries on film in a way few have seen them; from the air. He captures a variety of images - throbbing urban scenes, views of wildlife, rivers carving the land into new shapes - but he seems especially captivated by the desert, which he frames in a majestic way.

Starting with the story of how Steinmetz discovered Africa and fell in love with it, the book will capture the reader's imagination as well as their visual passion. Vignettes about his adventures are dotted throughout the images, giving them more backdrop and meaning. Most of all, the reader will be granted a new perspective on this beautiful continent. Beware - it may further drive the desire to travel!

Leopard - Hyena clash: Savuti Camp

From our friends at Wilderness Safaris, we bring you this exciting game report from Savuti Camp in the Linyanti Concession in Botswana.

The healthy flows of water in the Linyanti River over the past few years have been good for the local hippo population. And where animals live, so too they die, and when an adult hippo succumbed just a few hundred metres from the river, its demise signalled a free-for-all amongst some of the resident carnivores. For the first day and a half, a clan of spotted hyaena dominated the carcass, tearing it open from the belly, and eating a large portion of the meat. The next day, the hyaenas, having fed to saturation point, moved a short distance away.

Some of them lay down in nearby pools of water to cool off, and others made their way to the river to drink. Some simply lay in the shade of bushes, digesting their easy meal. Their absence allowed another carnivore's access to the remnants of the hippo, in the form of a young male leopard. When we arrived at the sighting the leopard was struggling mightily to try and bite his way through the very tough skin of the hippo's leg. It looked to us as if he was trying to sever the leg and make off with it. The skin was too tough though, and the leopard continued to methodically work off small bits of meat, and gulp them down.

Later that afternoon, as the sun was setting, the first hyaena returned. The hyaena approached the carcass directly opposite the leopard, and began to eat, but the leopard was having none of it, and after threatening the hyaena for several seconds, he made a sudden, snarling rush at his bigger adversary.

When male leopards and hyaena clash, it is not always clear which animal is dominant. On many occasions an adult spotted hyaena will manage to drive a leopard off a kill, but at other times the leopards fight back and successfully defend their food. The outcome may depend on the motivation levels at that time of the particular animals in question, in other words, which one is the hungriest. Any sustained fighting carries risks for both participants as neither of them can afford to carry injuries.

In this instance, the male leopard had the most to lose. The hyaena had a bulging belly but no stomach for the fight, and this time it backed off in the face of the leopard's aggression. Darkness had already fallen when we left the leopard quietly tearing away at the carcass. The next day there was no sign of him, and the hyaena were back, finishing off what was left of the hippo.

Want to visit Savuti Camp and get in on the excitement? Call us to plan your customized safari!

Observers: Lets Kamogelo and Grant Atkinson
Photographers: Lets Kamogelo and Grant Atkinson