Adventures in Africa

Lion Battle at Selous!

2011-08-15T07:15:00.000-07:00

The following story comes from our friends at Sand Rivers Selous in Tanzania. All photos courtesy Mark Sheridan Johnson.

Hearing lions roar early we made our way over to one of the lakes that is fed by the Rufiji river called Lake Segese, The lake is part of the huge Rufiji water system, all the water that flows in the Rufiji falls within the country, a truly Tanzanian river. As we approached Lake Segese the roars of the lions became more frantic, we picked up speed to see if we could catch a glimpse of what was happening.

Bounding along the shores, a lioness jumped straight into lake Segese fully submerged she reappeared bursting out of the water, she carried on this way making her way to the other side of the lake, behind her on the lake shore was another five lions in hot pursuit.
Oblivious to our presence, the lions carried on charging round the lakes edge, eyes fixed on the lioness ahead. At the helm was a fully grown female, followed by four of her offspring, the adult female also jumped into the lake to cut a corner and catch up with the female ahead. We kept up as they ran through a small Doum palm thicket, passing that the female who jumped into the lake was now cornered. Her only option was a fallen tree that was half in the water, out of desperation she took the chance and made her way hastily along the branches to the end and turned around, teeth showing and snarling.

We pulled up and switched the engine off, the noise was incredible all five lions were roaring, the matriarch and a young male decided to follow her up the fallen tree which was over hanging the water, the female at the end was visibly wounded, deep puncture marks were streaming blood. Taking care the lions edged their way toward the end of the tree, the noise was deafening snarls and roaring.

The attackers were unable to get a good enough grip on the log. They retreated back onto the lakes edge, marking their territory and roaring, finding a shady spot the attacking pride lay down keeping their eyes fixed on the lioness in the tree. Sometime passed, the sun was gradually rising and the lioness was in direct sunlight, her wound was still bleeding and she was in an uncomfortable position over water with five lions trying to get her.

Over the next couple of hours the pride of five tried several times to reach her at the end of the tree, each time they failed retreating back to the shade to watch her patiently. We all decided it was time for breakfast now, so we made our way over to lake Tagalala for a lovely bush breakfast.

An hour later we returned to find them all in the same positions.

As we approached the lioness took the opportunity to make a run for it, she nimbly made her way to the shore, then as fast as lightening dashed off towards lake Tagalala, turning around we found the five lions were in hot pursuit again, we tried to keep up! Finally reaching the pride, where they had stopped, we thought she must have escaped, looking up into a large Wing bean tree, there she was, right up near the top. Five lions at the bottom, another standoff! After watching for a while we decided to head back to the camp for lunch; what an exciting morning!

The female must have been caught wandering or hunting in this prides territory, the prides which are controlled by a matriarch often fight each other over territorial boundaries. In the afternoon there was no sign of any of the lions, we believe she eventually escaped her attackers.

Photos courtesy Mark Sheridan Johnson

Cheesy Chicken in Bacon

2011-08-12T07:30:00.000-07:00

I don't know about you, but where I live it's that time of summer where I can't even bear to turn the oven on inside. Every meal we have is coming off the grill (including dessert some days!). This is an easy chicken recipe from the classic South African cookbook 'Braai in Style' that will have people coming back for seconds (really - what isn't better with bacon??). Serve with ripe, sliced tomato and an arugula salad.

Cheesy Chicken in Bacon
Adapted from Braai in Style by Lannice Snyman
Serves 4-6

8 bone in, skinless chicken breast fillets (you may have to remove the skin yourself)
freshly ground black pepper
Dijon or other coarse mustard
8 narrow slices Gruyere (optional)
1/2 lb bacon

Lie the chicken fillets flat, season with ground pepper and smear with mustard. Place a slice of cheese inside each fillet and fold the chicken over to enclose the cheese.

Wrap each breast in bacon making sure it's completely covered. You can prep the chicken up to a day in advance.

Braai (grill) the chicken over medium-hot coals for 15-20 minutes, turning carefully once halfway through the cooking. When it is done, the bacon will be beautifully crisp while the chicken has remained incredibly moist.

Client Feedback - Botswana Great Wilderness Journey

2011-08-08T07:00:00.000-07:00

We love it when clients take the time to give us direct feedback on their adventures. Sometimes it comes in the form of photos or video or safari stories, and sometimes it is a letter such as this. Every time we hear from a client, it reminds us of why we do what we do - ensuring our clients have the safari experience of a lifetime! Thanks to Kay Hamish-Ladd for the letter and the gorgeous photos!

Kent, thanks so much for your help in selecting a safari for Africa. I think the Bot swana Great Wilderness Safari was the perfect one for us. I wanted to pass along feedback on our wonderful guide in case you communicate with Wilderness Safaris on their staff. Kay

We just returned from a wonderful experience on your Botswana Great Wilderness safari. We believe that a major reason that our trip was so wonderful was our guide, Russell Crossey. My husband and I were part of a group of 5 people that included an 82 year old man and his 14 year old grandson. Every person in our group had wonderful things to say about Russell. He is a wonderful combination of experience and enthusiasm. He is extremely knowledgeable about animals, birds, history and geology. He could identify birds that we could barely see. His enthusiasm never waned from the dark of early morning when he woke us up until the dark of night when he escorted us back to our tents around elephants. He never was flustered, even when he was driving a vehicle that broke down when we were on the way to the Khwai airport and he had to call for someone to come get us in time to make our flight.

Russell was relentless in his efforts to find all the animals we hoped to see, including a leopard and wild dogs hunting at the break of dawn.

Russell is clearly liked and respected by camp staff and other guides. He was warmly greeted where we went. He was always flexible and adjusted the plans any time he heard about an animal sighting. He made sure everything ran smoothly for us and is a real credit to Wilderness Safaris. His combination of knowledge, experience and
personality must make him one of your top guides. He never seemed to tire of our relentless questions and had a wonderful sense of humor.

I had high expectations for our trip - I had waited 30 years to go on an African safari. Because of Russell, my experience exceeded my expectations. He created such a warm atmosphere for our group who had not known each other before the trip. Because of our experience, my husband and I now hope that we might be able to go on another trip with Wilderness Safaris and if we do we will be trying to get on another one led by Russell. We will also give his name to friends who are considering trips to Botswana.

On a separate note, we really liked the itinerary of the Great
Wilderness Safari but it would be nice to have a night or full day in
the Kasane and Chobe River area. We are very impressed with the
logistics and facilities that Wilderness Safaris offer.

Cold Cucumber Soup

2011-08-05T07:15:00.000-07:00

During these dog days of summer, something cool and refreshing is called for. This recipe is adapted from The South African Illustrated Cookbook, but the author originally found it in Good Eating from Woodmead School, which is another collection of South African recipes from a school system in Gauteng (Johannesburg area) that is out of print.

Cold Cucumber Soup
Serves 4
Prep time: 20 minutes

1 large English cucumber, peeled and chopped
1.5 c cream
juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2 c plain yogurt
5 drops Tabasco sauce
6 sprigs mint
1 clove garlic, peeled
salt and pepper to taste
fresh chives, chopped, for garnish
pinch cayenne pepper, for garnish

Place the cucumber, cream, lemon juice, yogurt, Tabasco, mint and garlic into a blender and blend until smooth. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Served chilled in bowls. Garnish with chopped chives and a sprinkle of cayenne. Makes a lovely first course.

Wild Dog Pups in Selinda!

2011-08-01T07:00:00.000-07:00

The past 2 weeks have been fantastic for guests from Selinda and Zarafa Camps in Botswana’s Selinda Reserve, with regular sightings of the 4 to 5 week old wild dog puppies. The alpha female dog was heavily pregnant in early June when she disappeared into the den site. Four weeks later on one of the first visits to the den she revealed her babies, and aren’t they just the cutest thing you have ever seen?? We are really optimistic that these pups will have the chance to reach adulthood and bolster the numbers of the Selinda wild dog pack.

Recipe: Spicy Plantain Chips

2011-07-29T07:30:00.000-07:00

This recipe for plantain chips comes from Marcus Samuelson's Discovery of a Continent. Plantains are a staple food throughout Africa and are used as a starch, similar to the way we use potatoes. These chips are a great snack food to serve prior to a meal to whet the appetite. Green plantains work best here, as they hold up better during cooking.

Spicy Plantain Chips
Makes 2.5 cups

2 green plantains

1 tbsp curry powder

1 tsp confectioners sugar

1 tsp salt

2 sticks unsalted butter

2 c canola oil

Peel the plantains and slice as thinly as possible using a mandoline. Place in a bowl and cover with cold water to soak for 10 minutes to wash away excess starch. Drain, rinse and blot dry with a kitchen towel. Meanwhile, combine the cury powder, sugar and salt in a small bowl.

Melt the butter in a large, deep pot over medium heat, then add enough oil to come to a depth of 1 1/2 inches. Increase the heat to medium-high until the oil reaches 350 degrees. Working in batches, carefully lower the plantains into the oil with a slotted spoon and fry. Stir occasionally to prevent the slices from sticking together until evenly browned (about 4 minutes). Remove from the oil and drain on paper towels. Dust with the curry/sugar mixture and serve immediately.

Book Review - Mark of the Lion

2011-07-27T07:15:00.000-07:00

I tend towards non-fiction books about Africa, perhaps to excess. I do read the occasional novel about Africa and usually enjoy them, but I was skeptical when I picked up Mark of the Lion by Suzanne Arruda, as I was initially put off by some of the more quirky period language in the book. However, as soon as I got a few pages into the story, I quickly ignored it.

The story follows Jade del Cameron, a particularly adventurous woman for the time period near the end of World War I. An American, she volunteered to serve in France as an ambulance driver in the war, before going to colonial East Africa to write magazine articles about Kenya and the exotic goings on there.

It doesn't take long before Jade is embroiled in mystery and danger in Nairobi and Tsavo stemming from a promise she made to a dying soldier. Jade holds her own in the frontier atmosphere and the author paints a vivid picture of the era of Karen Blixen's Out of Africa. Readers will find rich descriptions of the very early days of safari as they become immersed in Jade's adventures.

While some of the plot can seem predictable, Arruda weaves a story that keeps the reader interested, if not occasionally on the edge of their seat. The book is the first in a series, so if you enjoy it, there is the promise of more.

July - Botswana Game Report - Xigera Camp

2011-07-25T07:00:00.000-07:00

This July game and camp report comes to us from our friends at Wilderness Safaris and Xigera Camp.

Hot water bottles, blankets and ponchos continue to be a great hit this winter, with temperatures dropping to as low as 7⁰ C at night and during the mornings. The campfire has been the perfect venue for cosy gatherings in the chilly mornings and evenings, with hot chocolate and coffee being the order of the day.

Water levels continue to drop after having reached their peak in May, and every day we need to reach a little lower to climb into the boats and mokoro.

Wildlife
At this time of year, when the water levels are still high, all the guest activities are centred around boating and mokoro rides.

Guests continue to be mesmerised by the awe-inspiring beauty of the area, and the chance to enjoy the exquisite vegetation, as well as the smaller animals such as frogs. Viewing hippo and elephant from a mokoro is also a special experience that leaves one with a sense of relaxation and harmony. Guests going out by boat on day trips towards Chief's Island have been lucky enough to spot lion crossing the water as well as the elusive Pel's Fishing-Owl.

Game viewing in general has been prolific, with regular sightings of giraffe, kudu, red lechwe, bushbuck, hippo, elephant and crocodile, among other species. A number of elephant have become comfortable around camp and often spent time feeding and sleeping around the camp. An old giraffe has also taken refuge around the camp, and was seen browsing off the trees above the tents daily.

Birds and Birding
The abundance of general bird life in this area, makes Xigera a haven for birdwatchers. Even the guests who are not avid birders have commented on the variety and quality of avian sightings, and how birding has opened another dimension to their safari experience.

As mentioned above, we have had various sightings of Pel's Fishing-Owl, as a pair have begun nesting along one of the water courses. Other regular specials include the Slaty Egret.

Camp News
The past couple of months have seen a hive of activity behind the scenes, with numerous renovations and upgrades taking place, most of which are now complete.

Our brand new walking bridge sports a drawbridge that now allows boats to pass through, even with water levels at their peak. On the other side of the dining area we have created our famous 'sand pit': a patch of sand that captures the tracks of any animals that may walk over the bridge and into camp. So far it seems that only the monkeys have been brave enough to make the crossing. There have been a number of leopard tracks milling around the bridge; possibly the elusive felines are still wary about the new bridge.

The main area has also undergone redesign with the bar now looking onto the channel. The buffet area has been repositioned and a small, cosy library area has now been included. A new, lower foot-bridge (with drawbridge mechanism to allow boats to pass) has also being built to avoid disturbing the view from camp. A new star deck has also been built for dinners, star talks and private dinners.

Perhaps most exciting of all has been the installation of our new solar power system. This system means that we can now provide the whole main camp with power generated by the sun, allowing us to do away with diesel-guzzling generators, and so further reduce our carbon footprint adding to a true ecotourism experience.

Photos courtesy Wilderness Safaris

Recipe: Bacon-wrapped Eland wors

2011-07-22T07:15:00.000-07:00

I don't want to lose you straightaway because the recipe calls for Eland. You're not going to find it in your local market, but try a different type of cocktail sausage or get regular-sized sausages, cut them up into 2 inch pieces and go for it. This is a delicious recipe; great for summer grilling and definitely has a safari/South African braai vibe.

The African Kitchen is also a great cookbook. Lots of great recipes that will make you feel like you're back on safari, and great photos scattered throughout.

Bacon-wrapped Eland Wors with Mealies and Lemon Leaves
Adapted from The African Kitchen by Josie Stow and Jan Baldwin
Serves 6

Ingredients
3lb 5oz eland wors or other cocktail sausages
*you may also substitute regular sized sausages cut into 2-inch chunks; 18 pieces total
24 slices bacon
12 prunes or pitted dates
3-4 mealies (ears of corn)
1/2 c olive oil
24 lemon or bay leaves
salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Whatever sausages you use, ensure that you have 18 2-inch pieces of sausages. Wrap a slice of bacon around each sausage. Cut the remaining bacon slices in half and wrap them around the prunes (or dates). Slice the mealies into 1 1/4 inch rounds.

Thread the bacon-wrapped sausages onto the skewers, alternating them with the lemon leaves, bacon-wrapped prunes and mealies. Each skewer should end with a sausage. Brush the kebabs with a little olive oil and season with salt and pepper just before cooking.

Cook on a grate over hot coals (preferably under a shade tree out in the bush!). Turn the skewers occasionally to cook throughout. Alternatively, broil for 10 minutes, turning, until the wors is cooked. The perfect meal on a stick. Yum!

Movie review: Mugabe and the White African

2011-07-20T07:15:00.000-07:00

This film is a personal account of land seizure in Zimbabwe. A government policy put in place under Robert Mugabe's regime dictated the seizure of white-owned farms and land, to be redistributed to the poor. The reality of the policy was unlawful land grabs that often involved beating, torture or the deaths of the affected farmers, while the stolen land was given to friends of Mugabe's government.

The film follows Michael Campbell, one of the country's few remaining white farmers, as he battles to protect his land. He and his family sue Mugabe for racial discrimination and human rights violations. The film follows the progress of the case, while documenting threats to the family and impacts to neighbors during the seizures.

The story flows at a determined and somewhat slow pace, though any faster and some of what happens might be hard to take in. It is deeply affecting to witness what happened to white farmers during the land seizures, as well as to see their strength in trying to fight for their land, their workers and their Zimbabwe.

Celebrate Nelson Mandela Day!

2011-07-18T07:15:00.000-07:00

Today is Nelson Mandela Day. This recognition takes place every year on July 18th; Madiba's birthday. The day is a call to action for people everywhere to take responsibility for making the world a better place, one small step at a time, just as Madiba has always done.

Mandela spent more than 67 years serving his community, his country and the world at large. On this day, people are encouraged to devote just 67 minutes of their time to changing the world for the better, in a small gesture of solidarity with humanity, and in a small step towards a continuous, global movement for good.

MAKE THE CHANGE: BECOME A MANDELA DAY CHANGEMAKER

Change was the gift given to all South Africans by Nelson Mandela. Now it's YOUR turn. In the spirit of Madiba and his vision to spread justice and freedom for all, this is your chance to step up to the plate and become a part of a continuous global movement for good. By becoming a Mandela Day Changemaker you can show that actions speak louder than words by giving a little of your time to make a change that's close to your heart. (or by giving a little of your time to make a difference to the life of someone less fortunate.)

SHARE YOUR MANDELA DAY DEED

Honor the life and legacy of Nelson Mandela by making your “Mandela deed” part of history. Visit the Mandela Day Activities to pledge your support and describe how you plan to commemorate the day. Then document your act of kindness on Mandela Day and share it with the world. You can comment here, and also send your feedback, pictures and experiences to nmf@nelsonmandela.org.

"It is in your hands to make of our world a better one for all.”
— Nelson Mandela, 25 June 2008 , from By Himself: The Authorised Book of Quotations

Special thanks to our partners at South African Airways for this content

Recipe: Fish Fanditha

2011-07-15T07:15:00.000-07:00

This recipe was inspired during a trip to the Maldives by its award winning cookbook creator, Jeremy Mansfield. I was inspired to buy this Zhoozsh! cookbook in Joburg airport a few months ago, as the recipes looked easy, inspiring and fun - and indeed they are!

Fish Fanditha
Adapted from Zhoozsh! Faking it, by Jeremy and Jacqui Mansfield

Pat dry 1.75 lbs hake medallions or steaks (halibut, cod or flounder will also work well here); lay them in an ovenproof dish and squeeze the juice of 1 lemon over the fish. Add kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.

Deseed and julienne a red, yellow and green pepper and lay them on the base of a separate flat-bottomed bowl. Sprinkle over 1 1/4 c couscous, followed by 2 tsp each of ground cumin and turmeric. Cover the mix with boiling water and let stand for 8 minutes or until all water has been absorbed. Fluff the couscous with a fork.

Using your hands, arrange about 1/3 couscous mix on top of the fish and press it flat to make a crust. Drizzle with oil and bake at 400 F for 12 minutes. Arrange remaining couscous on the serving plates and top with the crusted fish.

Serve with fresh tomato, lemon wedges and fresh cilantro, drizzled with olive oil.

Interested in following your safari with a visit to the Maldives or another wonderful African beach destination? Give us a call and we'll work with you to find the perfect fit!

Travel + Leisure Top Honors

2011-07-13T07:15:00.000-07:00

No. 1 World's Best Hotel Overall - Singita Grumeti Reserves
No. 2 World's Best Hotel Overall - Singita Sabi Sand
No. 1 Best Hotel Spa in Africa & the Middle East - Singita Kruger

South Africa’s Singita Game Reserves has taken top honours in this year’s US Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards 2011 readers’ survey, scooping both 1st and 2nd places among the World’s Top 100 Hotels, as well as securing the winning slot for Best Hotel Spa in Africa and the Middle East.

Having been rated against the finest hotels around the globe, Singita Grumeti Reserves, located along the Western corridor of Tanzania’s legendary Serengeti National Park, is ranked No. 1 on the Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards 2011 list of Top 100 Hotels Overall.

Flagship Singita Sabi Sand, home to Singita’s founding lodges Singita Ebony and Singita Boulders, as well as exclusive-use retreat Singita Castleton, followed hot on its heels as No. 2 on the coveted list of Top 100 Hotels Overall.

In a remarkable achievement, a third Singita product, Singita Kruger National Park, which encompasses Singita Lebombo and Singita Sweni Lodges with its spectacular setting overlooking the N’wanetsi River, not only made it onto this coveted Top 100 Hotels Overall list too (ranked No. 39), but it was also voted Best Hotel Spa in Africa and the Middle East in the same readers’ survey this year.

Singita Grumeti Reserves embodies the philosophy of ‘touching the earth lightly’, and is an exemplary model for the new African eco-philanthropy that ‘gives back’ through significant conservation and community projects.

The Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards 2011 will appear in the August issue of the American Travel + Leisure magazine (due for release on 22 July). The survey results are based on readers’ ratings.

The Singita properties aren't alone on the list of 'Bests' in Africa. Six of the top 10 properties in the top 100 list were in Africa. Other favorites such as Mombo and Le Quartier Francais, Londolozi and the Cape Grace could be found on the list as well. Cape Town appeared in the top 10 list of cities, and all top 10 family hotels on the Middle East and Africa list were found in Africa.

To learn about available specials we have for these properties or book any of them on a customized safari, give us a call!

Photos courtesy Singita and Le Quartier Francais, some text courtesy Singita

Recipe: Fresh Steamed Fish

2011-07-11T07:00:00.000-07:00

There's nothing like serving a light dish in the evening to reduce the impact of summer's heat. This dish comes from Uganda. In East Africa, the recipe is made with a whole fish, either with or without the head. It works well with red snapper.

Fresh Steamed Fish
Recipe adapted from Cooking the East African Way
by Bertha Vining Montgomery and Constance Nabwire

1/4c vegetable oil
2 medium onions, peeled and chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped
3 medium tomatoes, chopped
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 lb fish fillets or 1 whole fish, approximately 2 lbs

In a large frying pan, heat the oil over medium heat for 1 minute. Add onions and saute until transparent. Add garlic, tomatoes, salt and pepper. Mix well. Place fish in the center of the tomato mixture. Cover and simmer for about 25 minutes, or until the fish is tender and flaky.

Serves 4-6

June Zimbabwe game report

2011-07-08T07:15:00.000-07:00

This report comes courtesy of our friends at Davison's Camp.

This month Hwange National Park proved to be one of the best places for safari adventures, offering a host of exciting game with special antelope appearing on every drive.

The open 'vlei' attracted the super predators, which made drives entertaining. We saw three different prides of lion, and we were very lucky to see a couple of hunts, sometimes their relentless enemies - the buffalo - fighting back, even threatening the lives of the king of beasts.

Leopards were even more cooperative, allowing stunning photographs, some on kills, some hunting and sometimes even engaging in territorial battles. On one occasion, one of the vehicles witnessed a leopard stalk and catch a Helmeted Guineafowl; as if this was not enough, the feline then moved on to main course and killed a steenbok. The rosette-clad cats wandered around camp on numerous occasions, breaking the silence of the night with their rasping sawing coughs, and leaving only their footprints right around the main area's fire pit. Hyena are being their usual mischievous selves and have been stealing and robbing kills from the above cats.

A female cheetah and her young fluffy cubs were seen at Back Pans. These sleekly spotted felines are a rarity in Hwange, seen only occasionally, and it was particularly exciting to see the cubs, and indication that the cheetah in the concessions are doing well. Watching these felines hunting just before the sun was about to set was a magical experience. One cheetah successfully took down a wildebeest on the Ngamo Vlei.

A fascinating sighting was that of bat-eared foxes, which were seen teaching their pups how to hunt.

The sable antelope are still frequent visitors to Ostrich Pan; their young calves are growing rapidly, with tiny spiked horns protruding from their darkening chocolate coloured faces. The stately jet-black males proudly stand watch, surveying the scenery as their herds frolic in the midday sun.

Enormous herds of buffalo have been enjoying open grasslands around Davison's Camp. The old warriors known as dagga boys are fearless, marching along very close to lions without a hint of unease for their own hide.

Spending half an hour will never be enough to watch elephants by the waterhole. It is a whole dance played out: the opening act is the dash to the water's edge, then much swinging and curtsying is done, right down into the water. The second act, after a short interlude as they move from the water to the closest dust patch, is one full of great trunks picking up the top layer of sand and throwing this over their backs, resulting in a dense haze in the air and beautiful sunsets of silhouetted elephants.

Drama and spice was added to one of the game drives when a lion had a buffalo by the neck on the ground and an elephant came to the suffering bovines rescue.

Ngweshla Pan offered a good sighting of our ever shy rhino on various occasions, much to everyones great joy. Even people who did not see them firsthand were excited to see the pictures.

Photos courtesy Davidson's Camp.

Book Review - The Fear

2011-07-06T07:15:00.000-07:00

The Fear: Robert Mugabe and the Martyrdom of Zimbabwe is a damning account of the post election violence in Zimbabwe in 2008. After nearly 30 years in power, Mugabe lost the presidential election to opposition candidate Morgan Tsvangirai. Mugabe denied the results and unleashed a brutal crackdown on the people of Zimbabwe. This is a disturbing and violent read, but at the same time the book highlights the incredible resilience of the Zimbabwean people.

The author, native Zimbabwean Peter Godwin, travelled to Zimbabwe during this post election violence at great personal risk to bear witness to the events that the world was largely ignoring. This book is most appropriate for people deeply interested in African politics, and those of Zimbabwe specifically.

Recipe: Abrow Ne Ase

2011-07-01T07:30:00.000-07:00

This Ghanaian dish is not dissimilar to succotash, though the beans used here are black-eyed peas. The dish is traditionally served with corn on the cob broken into small pieces. For ease, we are using fresh off the cob (or frozen) corn and canned black-eyed peas. This makes an easy side dish or vegetarian entree and would certainly be at home at a 4th of July picnic. Recipe adapted from The Africa Cookbook by Jessica B. Harris.

Abrow Ne Ase (Boiled corn and beans)

Serves 6-8 as a side dish

4 c fresh corn cut from the cob (or frozen, defrosted)
2 c drained, canned black-eyed peas
1 c water
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine corn, black-eyed peas and water in a medium saucepan and cook, uncovered, over medium heat for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

June - Botswana Game Report - Zarafa Camp

2011-06-29T07:15:00.000-07:00

This recent game report comes from our friends at Zarafa Camp.

Well winter is upon Northern Botswana. The overnight lows are dipping to 5C but fortunately, and typically, midday temperatures rise to a very comfortable mid-twenties touching 30 degree Celsius. Even as the flood waters continue to push into the area, the dry season has begun; there hasn't been a single drop of rain during June. Ironically, it’s during the dry season that the most free standing water is found.

The flow of water in the Okavango Delta system as well as the Linyanti Swamp system due to massive rains in Angola earlier in the year is resulting in higher than usual water levels in the Zibadianja Lagoon, Selinda Spillway and Savuti Channel. Yet winter continues and the “dry” season unfolds with many trees losing their leaves, vegetation being grazed and dying back revealing game sightings not often encountered during the wetter summer months which are characterized by much dense green vegetation.

With free standing water in the surrounding waterholes all but dried up, the concentration of game along the Zibadianja Lagoon and adjoining waterways is phenomenal.

There are large breeding herds of elephants (Loxodonta africana) moving in and out of the tree-line here to drink from the lagoon regularly. They have even come through camp, drinking in view of our deck pools which was an absolute spectacle for guests.

By far the highlight is the denning of the wild dog (Lycaon pictus) pack. The estimate is that on the 12th of June 2011, puppies were born in the same den used last year. There have been some awesome encounters with the dogs while they have hunted as far over as Zarafa Camp and have been moving around the edge of the lagoon and even seen on Joubert Island crossing shallow water towards their den.

At present the den site is closed to vehicles to give the dog puppies some time to settle. In the very near future though, guests will be able to have scheduled visits to the den and this will provide a once in a lifetime experience watching them rear their young puppies and all the super interactions between the members of the pack during this time. The adult pack have been hunting around camp frequently to the point where a young male impala (aepyceros melampus) was chased into the lagoon in front of the deck and stayed put in the water until long after sunset.

Photos Great Plains Conservation

June Mara Game Report

2011-06-27T07:15:00.000-07:00

This report comes courtesy of our friends at Mara Plains Camp in Kenya. It is written by Dereck Joubert (of 'Last Lions' fame!).

I don’t usually add to the camp dispatches here because we like to see that coming from the guides and experts at our camps, but I’ve just been in Mara Plains for a few days pacing out new tent positions for our new camp which we will be building there in 2012 as well as looking for a site for a new mobile camp.

May and June are traditionally very quite travel months to the Masai Mara and as I walked around the camp I found myself stopping all the time and just shaking my head. This must be the best time of the year in the Masai Mara.

Thousands upon thousands of zebra filtered through and around the camp sometimes getting confused for a moment amongst the tents! As many, if not more, wildebeest kicked up so much noise that it felt like traffic. These wildebeest are different to the usual migration from the Serengeti but come down from Loita Plains where the route to Loita and back is narrowing desperately by fenced off wheat farms. The result is a longer, more extreme northern migration ending up in and around Mara Plains.

Two nights ago, lions killed a zebra right near camp. Within minutes the first hyena charged through camp, tail up and ready for battle. Twenty or more hyenas swooped in on the lions and displaced them in minutes, but the lions rallied and won their kill back again. The Mara hyenas are bigger than those we know so well from Botswana, and they gathered their confidence and attacked again winning the kill, but just for a moment and the lions growled and hissed and clawed their meal back in a final thrust of aggression. This is real Africa, with real drama, and all happening with no one around.

In and out of the reserve in two days we saw two other vehicles.

I’m collecting my cameras and heading back up as soon as possible. Anyone wanting to see the most spectacular wildlife in Africa, without the clutter of other vehicles should do the same. I’m a new fan of May and June at Mara Plains!

Report courtesy Mara Plains and Dereck Joubert

Recipe: Spicy Tomato & Lentil Soup

2011-06-24T07:30:00.000-07:00

This recipe comes to us from our friends at Leopard Mountain Game Lodge in South Africa.

Spicy Tomato & Lentil Soup
SERVES 6

Ingredients
1 onion
4 garlic cloves
2 tsp fresh chopped curry leaves (optional)
1 chilli
4 tsp fresh chopped coriander (cilantro)
1 tbsp garam masala
1/2 tbsp curry poweder
1 tsp turmeric
1 tsp cumin
2 c cooked lentils
5 tomatoes (deseeded & chopped)
4 c water

Fry onion, garlic, chilli, curry leaves & coriander with a little salt. Once cooked add the remaining spices and cook on a low heat for about 30 seconds. Add lentils & cook for a minute or two. Add tomatoes, cook until they start to break down. Add water and simmer for 15 minutes. Taste for seasoning and adjust as desired.

Serve with minted yoghurt and chopped coriander (cilantro)

Minted yoghurt for garnish

1/2 c Greek yoghurt
1 tbsp mint leaves
1/2 tsp cumin
1 tsp lemon juice
salt to taste

Mix together and adjust seasoning

Safari Q+A

2011-06-22T07:00:00.000-07:00

Why do reptiles sun themselves?

Reptiles are classified as ectothermic, which means that they are unable to regulate their body temperature internally and are therefore dependent on environmental heat sources. On safari, we frequently see reptiles sunning themselves. Reptiles will move in and out of sunny spots, retreating to shade to keep their body at a constant temperature.

Photo courtesy Gretchen Healey

South Africa Events Calendar

2011-06-20T07:34:00.001-07:00

Bringing you the latest goings on in South Africa this winter season.

Cape Town

JULY

Danscape 2011

This annual showcase of dance allows the young up and coming Jazzart dancers and choreographers the chance to perform in a professional environment. A number of young artists and companies who have never before featured on this platform will perform. Artscape Theatre.

7 to 10 July 2011

Kylie Minogue Aphrodite-Les Folies

Aphrodite was released in July 2010 and became Kylie`s fifth #1 album in the UK, hitting the top spot a full 22 years to the week since her debut album Kylie entered the chart. Grand Arena / Grand West

13 and 14 July 2011

The Nutcracker - Ballet

Imperial Russian Ballet - The Nutcracker: Following their 2009 sell-out season of Carmina Burana by Carl Orff, the Imperial Russian Ballet Company returns to South Africa to perform The Nutcracker. They are joined by South African children from ballet schools. Artscape Theatre

14 to 16 July 2011

Indigenous Orchestra Ensemble

Is an eclectic mix of indigenous to mainstream South African contemporary music and jazz, accompanied by brass instruments, keyboard, Imbira, traditional instruments and dancers. It is narrated through storytelling, which tells the tale of how indigenous instruments were introduced in our communities. Artscape Theatre.

28 to 30 July 2011

AUGUST

James Blunt – Some Kind of Trouble Tour

This 5-time Grammy award nominee has many hits which include You’re Beautiful, Goodbye My Lover and 1973. Blunt has been compared to the likes of Damien Rice and David Grey. He has sold over 15 million albums world-wide. Grand Arena at Grand West Casino.

30 August 2011

Swan Lake Ballet

The greatest of all classical ballets ever choreographed, this masterpiece embodies mystery and romance portrayed in sublime, ethereal movement. Tchaikovsky’s score transports the viewer and inspires the dancers in their portrayal of this tale of love’s triumph over evil. Artscape Opera House.

19 to 26 August 2011

Cape Town Fashion Week,

Africa’s largest gathering of fashion talent, has grown into one of the premiere “new world” fashion weeks providing an international platform for designers from across sub-Saharan Africa. The thirteen collections will showcase emerging designers along with industry heavyweights. Cape Town International Convention Centre.

11 to 14 August 2011

Johannesburg

JULY

Parlotones Dragonflies and Astronauts

This rock theatre production is complete with storyline, sets and characters revolving around the greatest hits of The Parlotones. On the 16th of July the show will be broadcast live from The Teatro at Montecasino in 3D. The transmission - a world first - will be beamed via satellite to 3D outlets around the globe. Teatro at Montecasino.

13 to 17 July 2011

The International Ballet Gala

Showcases a galaxy of ballet stars, in showpieces from legendary ballets such as Swan Lake, The Sleeping Beauty and The Nutcracker. Glittering performances by international ballet stars. Teatro at Montecasino.

7 to 10 July 2011

Trio Fibonnaci

Relax with JMS and enjoy the world’s musical masterpieces, brought to you by exciting international and local artists of the highest caliber. Linder Auditorium.

30 July 2011

Mediatech Africa

Mediatech Africa showcases cutting edge technologies and services from industry leaders in television and broadcast, sound and audio, lighting and staging, animation, communication and related fields. Coca Cola Dome – Randburg

20 to 22 July 2011

National Antiques & Decorative Arts Faire

Local and international exhibitors showcase their collections. There will be a wide range of furniture from the Victorian, Georgian, Edwardian and Art Nouveau collections. There will be jewellery, glassware, porcelain as well as prints, maps, coins, military memorabilia and books on display. Sandton Convention Centre.

22 to 24 July 2011

AUGUST

James Blunt – Some Kind of Trouble Tour

This 5-time Grammy award nominee has many hits which include You’re Beautiful, Goodbye My Lover and 1973. Blunt has been compared to the likes of Damien Rice and David Grey. He has sold over 15 million albums world-wide. Coca Cola Dome.

26 August 2011

Rain - A Tribute to the Beatles

Direct from Broadway; listed as number 17 in Pollstar’s top world tours this adoring Beatles tribute band will take you back to a time when all you needed was love and a little help from your friends. Teatro at Montecasino.

23 August to 11 September

Johan Botha Gala Concert

For a one-night-only gala performance, Johan Botha returns to Gauteng where he studied and made his stage debut (as Max in Weber’s Der Freischutz in Roodepoort in 1989). Conducted by Sebastian Lang-Lessing and including glorious Romantic repertoire by Verdi, Puccini, Leoncavallo and Lehar, this concert is a rare opportunity to hear one of the world’s foremost singers live on stage. Teatro at Montecasino.

20 August 2011

Old Mutal Jazz at the Theatre

A monthly jazz experience, happening at Nelson Mandela Square’s Old Mutual Theatre, it brings Jazz lovers the very best of SA Jazz talent in an intimate Theatre setting.

7 August 2011

Standard Bank Joy of Jazz

Celebrating its 12th anniversary in 2011 The Standard Bank Joy of Jazz has a fantastic line up of top international and local artists. This year international aritists hail from America, Sweden, Spain and the Netherlands and will be joined by top performers from South Africa and the African Diaspora. Newtown.

25 to 27 August 2011

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

Recipe: Marinated Olives and Feta

2011-06-17T07:15:00.000-07:00

There is no shortage of South African cookbooks available. Today, I've taken a recipe from Braai in Style by Lannice Snyman. The recipe is for a very simple starter. This recipe makes a large batch; you can keep it in the fridge as it will be good for several weeks. You can easily halve the recipe if you prefer. Serve at room temperature as a snack, or scatter the mixture over a salad.

You can find the most fantastic feta cheese in South Africa. I eat it to excess every time I visit. It's thick and creamy and not nearly as salty as what I find in the markets here in the States. Be sure to sample some on your own trip to South Africa! Only use block feta in this recipe, not pre crumbled. While it might not be as good as the feta in South Africa, if you use quality ingredients throughout the recipe, the flavors will shine.

2 1/4c green olives
2 1/4c black olives
1 3/4c block feta cheese, cut into large squares
4 cloves garlic, skinned and halved
1 tbsp whole coriander, lightly crushed
2 fresh red or green chillies, hoalved and seeded
fresh rosemary sprigs
olive oil

Drain olives and place in a bowl with the cheese, garlic, coriander, chillies and rosemary. Toss gently to mix. Put the mixture into a large jar and fill to the brim with olive oil. Seal and refrigerate until serving.

Makes 3.3 lbs

AfricAid's Tanzania

2011-06-13T06:48:00.000-07:00

Twelve kind, curious, and adventure-seeking Americans and Canadians + four Tanzanian schools + three game parks + two nights camping in the bush = one truly amazing, once-in-a-lifetime safari.

AfricAid and Africa Adventure Consultant’s first guided trip to Tanzania concluded a few short weeks ago. Participants witnessed AfricAid’s programs first-hand and got to experience Tanzanian culture through school and home visits. And, of course, it included the classic safari experience. The group visited Tarangire, Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti. In one day, they saw thirty lions and one leopard – and that’s just the cats.

The trip provided a very unique opportunity to see life-changing programs close-up and to enter Tanzanian schools and homes. The group visited two primary schools: Upendo and Losinoni, and two secondary schools: Muungano and Arusha Secondary. This was a blend of public and private, and urban and rural schools. Still, one thing was constant; there are thousands of bright, spirited, beautiful children who simply want to learn and make their lives and communities better. Children and travelers engaged in a postcard activity where each shared stories and pictures of their homes and lives at Losinoni, and sang, played, and asked questions to learn about one another at Upendo. Multiple home visits, including a visit to a traditional Maasai home, afforded the opportunity the better understand the culture in an authentic, unfiltered way.

The game park visits were extraordinary and offered the chance to see some of the famed wildebeest migration, as well as hundreds of other animals from the tiny dik dik to the mighty lion. Venturing out among a field of elephants is truly a life-changing, awe-inducing moment.

As we concluded this year’s trip, we’re already planning for next year. There’s certainly something in the air in Africa. The smell of smoke from cooking fires and fragrant flowers mix with sounds of calling birds and the occasional distant drum. Yes, there’s something magic in Tanzania and it’s not just in the air; it’s in the people. We hope each and every one of you can join us soon and experience it for yourself. Our 2012 safari will take place in June of next year and will be a family-friendly trip. For more information on AfricAid and Africa Adventure Consultant’s 2012 trip, please contact us.

Guest blog courtesy Elizabeth Abeshire (AfricAid). Photos courtesy Elizabeth Abeshire and Ashley Schulyer.

Recipe: Cheese Crisps

2011-06-10T07:15:00.000-07:00

This recipe comes from one of my favorite South African cookbooks, Cape Town Food by award winning cookbook author Phillipa Cheifitz. The cooking methods used are very approachable, and the photography throughout the book is very nice - both of the food and of Cape Town. The recipes in this book never disappoint, and often they're the talk of the party.

This recipe is a great snack for the cocktail hour. You'll be surprised how quickly they'll disappear!

Cheese Crisps
Adapted from Cape Town Food by Phillipa Cheifitz

1/2 c gruyere cheese, grated
4 tbsp soft butter
1/2 c cake flour
pinch cayenne pepper
salt, to taste

Mix all ingredients together to form a dough. Roll into a sausage shape and wrap in greaseproof paper. Freeze until firm enough to slice.

Slice very thinly and bake at 375 degrees for 5 minutes or until golden, but watch carefully as they can easily burn. Allow to cool slightly, then lift carefull onto a wire rack. Store in an airtight container until serving.

Gretchen's Trip Report - part 2

2011-06-08T07:15:00.000-07:00

The next destination in my journey was Chobe National Park in Botswana. You can fly into either Kasane (Botswana), Livingstone (Zambia) or Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe) to get to Chobe. Flights to Livingstone and Victoria Falls tend to be more economical than to Kasane.

I flew into Livingstone and was greeted then transported to Chobe via the Kazangula border crossing. This is a river crossing; you are dropped by one guide and vehicle on one side and met by another guide and vehicle on the other. I love African border crossings (though I don't think that's a universal feeling amongst all travelers). They are most often very busy and some level of commerce is always present, as well as people, vehicles and animals. They are always interesting to pass through, and Kazangula just popped to the top of my list of favorites.

After being met on the Botswana side, we finished the border crossing and made the short transfer to Sanctuary's Chobe Chilwero Lodge. The lodge is perched on top of a bluff overlooking the Chobe river. It's very luxurious and intimate, with only 15 guest cottages. Each cottage is spacious with both indoor and outdoor showers, freestanding bathtub, luxurious bedding and a sitting area. Because of its location, it also has power for little luxuries like an in room mini-fridge (no wait for a cool beer on a hot afternoon!) and air-conditioning. In keeping with little luxuries, there is a private garden out back with seating and relaxing hammock, as well as seating out front overlooking the Chobe river.

There is a pool on the grounds for those hot days when you need a cool dip. The main area is airy, spacious and comfortable, with lots of indoor and outdoor seating; afternoon tea on the lawn is particularly lovely. There is wi-fi and cell phone reception if you must, or if you want to post a quick email home to let everyone know you arrived and that everything is wonderful, there's a guest computer available for use. The connection speeds are tolerable, but it's not broadband. There's a nice curio shop with all sorts of interesting things to take home to your family and a few supplies like batteries and such in case you forgot yours.

The food is exceptional - this was the case at all of Sanctuary's camps and lodges. Breakfast is a buffet followed by cooked options if you wish. Lunch is a buffet as well, with wonderful light choices, including a variety of healthy options. Dinner is plated and multi course. Additionally, you have a choice of entrees, and of course any dietary restrictions can be accommodated. When you travel, let us know in advance if there is anything you can't or don't wish to eat so we can make your wishes known early. At Chobe Chilwero, you have the option of dining inside or out, though barring terrible weather, I find dining outside in Africa to be wonderful and special any time of day.

Activities at the camp include game drives in Chobe National Park and sundowner cruises on the river. If you find either of these strenuous or just want to treat yourself, Chobe Chilwero has an amazing full service spa offering everything from couple's treatments for your romantic trip, body treatments, hydrotherapy and more. Book your treatment in the tree house for an extra special experience. I can attest to the credentials of the spa staff; I was lucky enough to have an absolutely amazing massage during my stay.

While you're waiting for the next report, don't forget to keep an eye on our Facebook page for trip photos, more trip report information and links to You Tube videos from our travels!

Next up: game drives and sundowner cruises in Chobe National Park - living the safari life!

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

Sanctuary Zebra Plains camp opens

2011-06-06T07:15:00.000-07:00

We are excited to announce that Sanctuary Zebra Plains, Sanctuary Retreats first luxury walking safari camp in Zambia’s fabled South Luangwa, is now open! This is a fantastic bush adventure by foot as you experience the sights, sounds and smells of the bush while enjoying personalised service, fine dining and the most luxurious tented accommodation.

Garth Hovell, one of Africa’s most highly respected guides and explorers with twenty years of experience, will host guests at Sanctuary Zebra Plains and lead two walks each day. Even after twelve years of guiding walking safaris, for Garth there is simply no match for the adrenaline rush of a walking safari: “On foot your senses are heightened by all that surrounds you to give you the ultimate safari high.”

I had the pleasure of going on a walking safari with Garth last month at Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge in the South Luangwa and it was one of the best walking safaris I've ever enjoyed. Garth is an amazing guide and is incredibly passionate about his work, which he demonstrates on every walk. You'll hear more about that walk in an upcoming trip report.

We're equally excited to bring you this special opening offer. If you book a stay for two at Sanctuary Zebra Plains, the second guest’s stay is half price – a savings of up to $825. Valid for new bookings with travel between June 1 and October 31, 2011.

Zebra Plains is a seasonal camp operating from June to October each year. The camp has been designed to leave the lowest possible carbon footprint and will be packed up completely between seasons leaving no trace that it was ever there.

There are set departures on Mondays and Thursdays, with a three night stay. We recommend combining a Zebra Plains walking safari with a stay at Sanctuary Puku Ridge Camp or the newly renovated Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge. We are currently offering three nights for the price of two at the Presidential Lodge. These permanent properties in the South Luangwa both offer morning and evening game drives so that you have a diverse safari experience.

Call us for more details or to plan your safari!

Photos courtesy Sanctuary Zebra Plains

Recipe: Summer Refresh drink

2011-06-03T07:30:00.000-07:00

I went to a tea tasting last weekend at a shop with over 150 varieties of tea; dozens of which were variations of the fantastic South African Rooibos (pronounced 'roy-bus'). Even better, I found a new cookbook in the shop with recipes based on Rooibos tea as a cooking ingredient.

The book, A Touch of Rooibos, has over 100 different recipes from 14 of South Africa's top chefs. The cookbook gives you a quick study of each chef as well as some tips on cooking with Rooibos, then heads in to delicious territory with soups, salads, mains, desserts, drinks and more. Rooibos tea is very easy to find these days; check your grocery store tea aisle and I bet you'll find some.

I chose a drink recipe to share with you today. It comes from a fantastic lodge in the mountains of the Cederberg region that is well worth a visit and a special place to stay. The valleys are dotted with citrus groves and there is hiking nearby as well as mysterious and beautiful San rock art. The highest vineyard in South Africa can be found in this region as well. If you'd like to learn more about Bushman's Kloof lodge or include it in your own South Africa itinerary just give us a call. On with our refreshing recipe...

Summer Refresh
Recipe by Bushmans Kloof from A Touch of Rooibos
Makes 20 glasses

4 cups cold, strong Rooibos
4 cups orange juice
4 cups lemonade, chilled
2 cups soda water, chilled
1 lemon, sliced
fresh mint leaves
crushed ice

1. Mix the Rooibos and orange juice. Place in the refrigerator to chill.
2. To serve, half fill a tall glass with the Rooibos mixture. Top up with the chilled lemonade and soda water to taste.
3. Garnish with lemon slices and mint. Serve with crushed ice.

Voila! Enjoy this summertime treat. No doubt, it would be nice to sip during an African sunset.

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

Gretchen's Trip Report - part 1

2011-06-01T07:15:00.000-07:00

As you know, several of us in the office recently spent time in Africa to see what's new, what's improved and what's happening. I had the pleasure of a quick but very interesting trip to South Africa, Botswana and Zambia.

I flew South African Airways from Washington, DC to Johannesburg. This flight stops in Dakar, Senegal en route. It's a quick and painless stop, but can be frustrating on a long journey to spend an hour somewhere you aren't staying. If you want to take a nonstop flight, the JFK (New York) to Johannesburg flight became nonstop on May 1st. I personally feel like it's better to get it all done in one fell swoop, but we'll leave that to seat availability and your discretion on your own journey!

Upon arrival in Johannesburg, I was met and greeted at the airport and escorted to the Gautrain station. Get it? Johannesburg is in Gauteng province, hence the Gautrain!

I hardly needed the escort, as the way to the train is very clearly signposted, but it's always nice to be greeted upon arrival. Joburg airport is amongst the best in the world; it has decent places to eat, great airport lounges for frequent fliers and shopping galore. I know a number of people that build a little extra time into their journeys just for the shopping!

Getting my Gautrain ticket was easy. There are automated kiosks as well as a manned booth. I opted for the latter and got a 'return' (two-way) ticket to Sandton, a desirable area of the city where my hotel was located. I entered the station with my 'Gold Card' (ticket) and awaited the train. The station was immaculately clean, well lit and staffed with security. The train runs frequently (every 12 minutes during peak hours), so you never have to wait long.

When the train arrived, I alighted and took a seat. The train was as spotless as the station and was comfortable. The ride to Sandton takes fewer than 15 minutes; a fraction of how long it might take by car depending on the traffic. The Sandton station is clean and well lit as well, and easy to navigate. I took the elevator and found myself on the street opposite my hotel; the Radisson Blu Gautrain.

The rooms at the Radisson are spacious and modern and will fulfill your needs for a short city stay. For dining, you will find the 'All Day Restaurant' in the hotel serving up very good food (including some traditional African dishes), with a nice wine list and views of the surrounding area. The breakfast buffet is staggering; it's a heck of a way to kick off your morning.

The hotel also has a bar, as well as a sundeck with a pool and an outdoor bar. If these aren't enough for you, there are a few restaurants within the building on street level, though I did not have the opportunity to dine at any of them as my stay was short. Finally, the hotel also has free wi-fi (and decidedly expensive computers for you to use if you don't have your own; about $7 for 15 minutes access) and good workout facilities.

I would submit that taking the train to the city after an 18+ hour journey is not for everyone; sometimes you just want to fall in the back of a vehicle and be whisked to where you're going. Definitely weigh this before deciding whether the Gautrain is right for you and your trip. The benefit is that it's a budget friendly way to get into Sandton. The drawbacks are that it requires some maneuvering after a very long and tiring journey, and only goes to two places (as of this writing), so the lodging options are very limited.

My return journey to OR Tambo the following morning was just as easy and uneventful. From there, I was off to Botswana and Zambia. More on that next week!

Gautrain station photo courtesy Gretchen Healey

Hotel photos courtesy Radisson Blu Gautrain

Book Review - A Guide to the Birds of East Africa - A Novel

2011-05-31T07:15:00.000-07:00

A Guide to the Birds of East Africa by Nicholas Drayson is a thoroughly charming read. It is about a widower named Mr. Malik and his unannounced love of another widower, Rose Mbikwa. They live in Nairobi and met during a weekly educational bird walk of which Rose was the leader.

The story gets interesting when Mr. Malik finally decides to do something about his secret crush; he plans to ask Rose to a ball. Trouble arises when his childhood nemesis makes an appearance and announces his intent to ask Rose to the same event.

Amusement ensues as a wager is made to determine which gentleman be allowed to ask Ms. Mbikwa to the ball. I won't reveal anything else so as to avoid any spoilers. Suffice it to say, it's a very satisfactory story. It paints a vivid picture of Nairobi as well as many other parts of Kenya. It also introduces the reader to a very endearing character in Mr. Malik.

Somewhat in the tradition and feel of the No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency series, but with its own special voice and characters; this book is sure to please.

Poached Guavas

2011-05-27T07:15:00.000-07:00

We're keeping it sweet this week with a recipe for poached guava fruit, a Cape Malay recipe adapted from The South African Illustrated Cookbook by Lehla Eldridge.

Poached Guava
Serves 4

1.5c sugar
1.5c water
3 pieces stick cinnamon
5 whole cloves
8 guavas, peeled

Dissolve the sugar in the water with the cinnamon and cloves. Boil for 10 minutes or until a syrup forms. Reduce heat and add the guavas whole to the syrup. Poach gently for 10 minutes, until pink.

This dessert is traditionally served with evaporated milk.

Book Review - When She Was White

2011-05-25T07:15:00.000-07:00

When She Was White is the fascinating true story of the life of a woman born and raised in South Africa during apartheid. What makes the story compelling is that Sandra Liang's race was reclassified more than once, resulting in a drastic change in the course of her existence.

Born to white parents and registered as 'white' at her birth, people complained of her physical characteristics during her rural youth, eventually leading to a reclassification as 'coloured' at the age of 10. This prompted the all-white school she attended to kick her out, and she was removed from the world of white privilege as well.

This was devastating for Sandra's family and they fought bitterly to have her race changed back to white. It eventually was, after a change in the law that made descent the determination of race, rather than physical appearance and community acceptance, but by then it was too late.

The story follows Sandra's life via her own recollections and of those who knew her, and unfolds in a tragic tale of the impact of the race classification system in apartheid South Africa. Some of the stories are muddled and conflicting due to the different sources, but the author still manages to weave an interesting albeit somewhat incomplete tale.

When She Was White is a fascinating read for anyone interested in the history of South Africa and the impact that apartheid had on the average family.

H.O.P.E. for an Unreached World

2011-05-23T07:00:00.000-07:00

Long time Africa Adventure Consultants client Sandra Washburn serves on the board of directors for a charity involved with community transformation throughout the globe. Her particular work focuses on Uganda. H.O.P.E. for an Unreached World is pursuing 501c3 status, but isn't waiting for it to be finalized to get their feet on the ground working and to make a positive impact.

Sandra leaves for a trip to Uganda to visit the communities that HOPE works within next week. Gulu is located in Northern Uganda, and the district has been the location of much of the insurgent fighting by the Lord's Resistance Army. Over 90% of the district population was displaced, mostly into camps clustered around towns and trading centers. To avoid abduction by the LRA thousands of children used to travel from rural areas to seek refuge in towns every night. There has been relative peace since 2007, so people can now focus on healing and community rebuilding.

Sandra is soliciting donations for some low cost items that can make a big impact. $16 purchases either a basketball (which are in short supply in Uganda!) or a talking watch for the blind. $8 purchases a braille atlas. Either amount makes a big difference.

In the evenings, basketball practice takes place at Karauna Ground (the municipal park). The men’s team are called the Gulu Hawks and are a registered team in division two basketball league. The women's team is in the process of being formally organized. They are considering the name Gulu Pride for their team in honor of the teamwork exhibited by lionesses as they hunt.

There are 26 blind students at Gulu Primary, 18 blind students at Gulu High School and 6 blind students on HOPE scholarships at various secondary schools in Uganda. There are over 40 blind people outside of school-age within the community as well. During past projects, HOPE has had white canes custom made for blind community members, then instructed people in their use. Now they hope to distribute talking watches and atlases to those same community members.

To make a donation (and a difference!) to HOPE, visit their website.

Kashata

2011-05-20T07:15:00.000-07:00

Today's recipe is sweet rather than savory. Kashata are popular during the holidays throughout East Africa. Make some as a sweet treat to end a meal this weekend.

2/3 c sugar
1/2 tsp cinnamon
2 c grated coconut or 1/2 lb unsalted peanuts, finely chopped

1. In a heavy skillet, heat the sugar until it melts (10-15 min), stirring constantly. The sugar will become dark brown and syrupy as it melts.
2. Add the cinnamon and the coconut or peanuts.
3. Cook for 2 minutes, or until the sugar turns light brown.
4. Remove from heat and let cool.
5. When mix is cool enough to handle, form 1-inch balls and place on wax paper until set.

Makes about 20 balls.

Recipe adapted from 'Cooking the East African Way' by Bertha Vinig Montgomery and Constance Nabwire

Book Review - From Microsoft to Malawi

2011-05-18T07:00:00.000-07:00

This book is one of the stars of the Peace Corps genre of stories (there are scores of Peace Corps books out there, quite a few of which focus on assignments in Africa). Michael Buckler leaves his comfortable, corporate life for the Peace Corps after a personal shake up prompts him to pursue a calling with deeper meaning. What he discovers is that he not only has much to offer, but much to learn. This 'diary' of his two year assignment to a village in rural Malawi paints a vivid portrait of the country and its people, as well as the struggle a Westerner faces during such an incredible lifestyle change.

A wonderful bonus of purchasing this book is that the proceeds will fund the educations of three boys he met and tutored during his time in country.

It's a quick and enjoyable read that will keep you captivated by its simple storytelling style, and by getting to know the wonderful people that Buckler meets and develops relationships with along with way.

April Mara Game Report - part 2

2011-05-16T07:00:00.000-07:00

Part 2 of the Mara game report from our partners at Governor's Camp in Kenya. Call us to plan your visit to this special area!

Rhinos, as usual, have remained the more elusive of the Big Five. Even so, two males and a female with a three month old calf were seen fairly regularly between Chemorita and Paradise.

Cheetahs were also less visible last month due to the movement of the bigger predators. The three brothers were seen in the Salinga area towards the middle of the month, after which they moved into the Paradise area. A young female was on Topi Plain for some time.

The big herd of buffalo that seems ever present at the western base of Rhino Ridge was still very prominent last month. They too have many youngsters at foot. These grand beasts are often over-looked but can offer hours of entertainment should one take the time to sit and watch them. There is a definite method to their movements and their actions that bears observation. Their interaction with various bird species can be of especially great interest.

The "little critters" remained captivating last month. Birding has been good as the avian migrants are still around, but are soon to leave. One of our guests left Kenya having seen 203 species in 10 days. No mean feat considering he only visited Lake Nakuru National Park and the Masai Mara! Of course we are all waiting for the rains to come and the wildebeest that are sure to follow. We had to be very careful where we put our feet last month as there were huge collections and processions of "siafu" (safari ants), a sure sign that this is on the way. Once again nature moves through its processes as it has since time immemorial, seemingly with no big method but definitely with a plan and an end goal. All one has to do is quietly observe and all becomes clear.

Photos courtesy of Samantha McLellan

Book Review - Casting With a Fragile Thread

2011-05-11T07:15:00.000-07:00

Casting With a Fragile Thread is one of the best examples of a non fiction Zimbabwean coming-of-age story on shelves today. This is the story of three sisters growing up during the end of the colonialism age in Zimbabwe, as told by the eldest girl. It examines race and inequality in a frank manner, and explores the concept of 'home' not just as a place, but a feeling. Wendy Kann weaves a compelling, real-life tale of her childhood (and adulthood) that will keep you up past your bedtime.

April Mara Game Report - part 1

2011-05-09T07:00:00.000-07:00

From our partners at Governor's Camp in the Masai Mara comes this review of game activity during April.

Once again we experienced dry weather during the first week or so of the month - it just didn't seem to want to rain! There would very often be a big build-up of clouds all along the western and north-western horizon which would raise our hopes, but the first decent, soaking rains only came fairly late in the month.

Last month's spate of rain (where it rained heavily for about four days) meant there was (and still is) lots of water in the marshes and luggas, which attracted a big collection of herbivores, especially zebra, wildebeest and elephant, in these areas.

The Marsh Pride has been seen regularly around Bila Shaka and has fed there almost every night. It is amazing to see fifteen lions all together around a kill! The lioness with her four three month old cubs was seen a number of times around Musiara Swamp. They are still fit and healthy and seem to be making progress in, to them, what must seem like a harsh world. These poor little fellows were really thirsty one day and had the unfortunate experience of all falling into the murky water! One cub was covered in mud and mewled incessantly like a distressed child!

The Paradise Pride has been seen mostly around the crossing below Serena Lodge, but on some days as far a-field as Chemorita. Notch and one male seem to have the urge to patrol more than the other males and these two have been seen between Rhino Ridge and Salinga on a number of occasions. One particular game drive vehicle was treated to the spectacle of about 16 hyenas trying to chase 6 lions off a warthog kill on the far southern reaches of Rhino Ridge. The lions were having none of it, but the noise and interaction was quite fantastic to experience!

Leopards were seen fairly regularly last month, in fact as often as three times a week. A mother with two cubs was seen around Paradise quite often and on one day five leopards were seen together. These were the same three as mentioned above with two males. Watch this space in just over three month's time. The existing cubs are close to the age where they would leave their mother, so perhaps more youngsters are on their way! Of further interest was another female leopard with a cub of three months old in the "Base" area.

Photos courtesy Katie McLellan and Samwel Kiplangat

Chicken Sosaties

2011-05-06T07:15:00.000-07:00

It's verging on braai (barbecue) season, and every time the weather is remotely nice, we're using the grill. No one seems more serious or more passionate about grilling than South Africans; it's deeply rooted in their culture. Today, I'm sharing a recipe from a friend for 'Chicken Sosaties', or chicken skewers. This dish is more typically made with lamb, but this version requires less time to marinate and still provides a bold flavored dish. It's a simple, but tasty and rewarding dish. Enjoy!

1.5 lbs boneless, skinless chicken breast
2 tbsp olive oil
4 yellow or white onions, thinly sliced
1 tbsp hot curry powder
1 tsp coriander seeds
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp brown sugar
1 c freshly squeezed lemon juice
Wooden skewers for grilling

Cut the chicken into 3/4 inch cubes and place in a deep bowl. Heat the oil in a saucepan and fry the onions until they are lightly browned. Add remaining ingredients and cook for 2 minutes over low heat, stirring constantly until the sugar is dissolved. Allow the marinade to cool, then pour over the chicken. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for 24 hours.

Soak wooden skewers for 1 hour or more. Heat your grill to medium. Remove chicken from marinade and drain excess liquid. Place chicken on the skewers, then grill for 10 minutes, turning once, until the chicken is cooked through. A classic accompaniment would be Mrs. Ball's chutney, but any chutney will do. A crisp, lemony arugula salad is nice alongside.

Serves 4

Book Review - African Air

2011-05-04T07:15:00.000-07:00

This stunning book of photography should be on every Africa-lover's coffee table. National Geographic photographer George Steinmetz captures fourteen different African countries on film in a way few have seen them; from the air. He captures a variety of images - throbbing urban scenes, views of wildlife, rivers carving the land into new shapes - but he seems especially captivated by the desert, which he frames in a majestic way.

Starting with the story of how Steinmetz discovered Africa and fell in love with it, the book will capture the reader's imagination as well as their visual passion. Vignettes about his adventures are dotted throughout the images, giving them more backdrop and meaning. Most of all, the reader will be granted a new perspective on this beautiful continent. Beware - it may further drive the desire to travel!

Leopard - Hyena clash: Savuti Camp

2011-05-02T07:00:00.000-07:00

From our friends at Wilderness Safaris, we bring you this exciting game report from Savuti Camp in the Linyanti Concession in Botswana.

The healthy flows of water in the Linyanti River over the past few years have been good for the local hippo population. And where animals live, so too they die, and when an adult hippo succumbed just a few hundred metres from the river, its demise signalled a free-for-all amongst some of the resident carnivores. For the first day and a half, a clan of spotted hyaena dominated the carcass, tearing it open from the belly, and eating a large portion of the meat. The next day, the hyaenas, having fed to saturation point, moved a short distance away.

Some of them lay down in nearby pools of water to cool off, and others made their way to the river to drink. Some simply lay in the shade of bushes, digesting their easy meal. Their absence allowed another carnivore's access to the remnants of the hippo, in the form of a young male leopard. When we arrived at the sighting the leopard was struggling mightily to try and bite his way through the very tough skin of the hippo's leg. It looked to us as if he was trying to sever the leg and make off with it. The skin was too tough though, and the leopard continued to methodically work off small bits of meat, and gulp them down.

Later that afternoon, as the sun was setting, the first hyaena returned. The hyaena approached the carcass directly opposite the leopard, and began to eat, but the leopard was having none of it, and after threatening the hyaena for several seconds, he made a sudden, snarling rush at his bigger adversary.

When male leopards and hyaena clash, it is not always clear which animal is dominant. On many occasions an adult spotted hyaena will manage to drive a leopard off a kill, but at other times the leopards fight back and successfully defend their food. The outcome may depend on the motivation levels at that time of the particular animals in question, in other words, which one is the hungriest. Any sustained fighting carries risks for both participants as neither of them can afford to carry injuries.

In this instance, the male leopard had the most to lose. The hyaena had a bulging belly but no stomach for the fight, and this time it backed off in the face of the leopard's aggression. Darkness had already fallen when we left the leopard quietly tearing away at the carcass. The next day there was no sign of him, and the hyaena were back, finishing off what was left of the hippo.

Want to visit Savuti Camp and get in on the excitement? Call us to plan your customized safari!

Observers: Lets Kamogelo and Grant Atkinson
Photographers: Lets Kamogelo and Grant Atkinson

North African Lamb Stew

2011-04-29T07:15:00.000-07:00

This is a supremely easy recipe and takes almost no time or effort to make. It's great to pop in the slow cooker in the morning to be ready at the end of a workday, and is actually quite healthy. Feel free to increase the spices if you like or if you don't have them all in your pantry, use what you have and make it your own recipe!

1 lb lamb or goat stew meat
1 tbsp olive or canola oil
1 tbsp plus 1 tsp ground cumin
1 tbsp ground coriander
1/2 tsp ground cayenne pepper
1/4 tsp ground turmeric
1/4 tsp ground cardamom
1/2 tsp salt
Lots of freshly ground pepper
1 large yellow onion, roughly chopped
1 28 oz can diced tomatoes
3/4 c water
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 can chickpeas, rinsed
6 oz baby spinach

Trim lamb of excess fat. Place it in a 5-quart slow cooker. Mix oil and spices into a paste in a small bowl, then use it to coat the lamb. Toss well. Top with the raw, chopped onion.

Bring tomatoes with their juice, water and garlic to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Pour over the lamb and onion. Cover and cook until the lamb is tender, 5.5-6 hours on low (or 3.5 hours on high).

Roughly mash 1/2 the chickpeas with a fork, then stir all chickpeas into the stew along with the spinach. Cover and cook on high until the chickpeas are warmed through and the spinach is wilted, 5-10 minutes.

Serve over couscous - whole wheat if you're feeling healthy. Delicious!
Serves 6-8.

African Cats - Movie review

2011-04-27T07:15:00.000-07:00

The second big cats movie of the year arrived on the big screen this Earth Day. African Cats follows the lives of a lion family and a cheetah family in the Masai Mara. You can expect spectacular close ups of animals, beautiful scenery and stunning, slow motion river crossings; not just of wildebeest and zebra, but also predators.

This is a Disneynature production, so it is rated 'G' and is meant to be more appropriate for children than the unsparing view of big cat life found in the National Geographic production 'The Last Lions', released in February. 'G' rating aside, there is violence - and while most of it is offscreen, there are some intense scenes that include kills. The movie relies on edge of your seat action and drama to keep the audience engaged but misses some of the magesty that we saw in The Last Lions.

Samuel L Jackson does a nice, but unremarkable job narrating, and that is where most of the darker parts of the movie are described, rather than being shown directly on screen. The music does a nice job of conveying what the filmakers want you to feel at a given moment, but doesn't really evoke Africa.

If you want to enjoy scenery and close ups of African game, this is a good movie. It's also potentially a good family movie and is appropriate for most ages (and a good way to get your 'Africa fix'). If you want a more stark and intimate look at the lives of lions (sparing no emotion), I'd suggest The Last Lions.

Photo courtesy Gretchen Healey

Summer 2011 Gorilla Trekking

2011-04-25T07:00:00.000-07:00

Time is running out to secure your gorilla trekking permits for dates in summer 2011. Explore our Rwanda and Uganda Gorillas trip, take a group trip, or we can customize your gorilla adventure. Remaining permit availability and dates are as follows:

Rwanda

June 2011
1st = 40
2nd = 30
3rd = 30
4th = 25
5th = 40
6th = 6
9th = 2
10th = 8
11th = 3
12th = 3

July 2011
23rd = 1
24th = 1

August 2011
4th = 3

There are no permits left for September.

Uganda is slightly less limited, however many dates are already sold out - especially in July and August. September still has good availability. Permit availability changes daily, so book your trip quickly to secure your spot for this magical wilderness experience!

We are also pleased to announce that there is now a new gorilla group open for trekking in the Kisoro/Clouds Lodge area. The group is called 'Mishaya' and it currently has 9 members. In July 2010, the second ranking Silverback called 'Mishaya' broke away from the main Nshongi group, taking 8 other individuals with him.

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

Banana and Meat Stew

2011-04-22T07:15:00.000-07:00

I had this dish the first time I visited Tanzania. I was skeptical when I was told I would be having banana and meat stew for lunch, but I'm a firm believer in trying everything once. This recipe will make you try it once, twice, then three times, then again...

Banana and Meat Stew
adapted from Cooking the East African Way
by Constance Nabwire and Bertha Vining Montgomery
Serves 4-6

1lb beef (preferably grass fed), cut into cubes
2c water
2 onions, sliced
2 tomatoes, peeled and sliced
2 tbsp oil
2 medium green plantains, or 4 small green bananas; washed peeled, sliced and placed in a bowl with cold water (I'd use the plantains unless you're getting your bananas from Africa!)
1c coconut milk
salt and pepper to taste

Place the meat and water in a pot and simmer for an hour. Saute the onion and tomato in hot oil in a large skillet until the onions soften and take on some color. Add cooked meat, plantains and coconut milk. If the coconut milk does not cover the meat, add some of the meat stock. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer gently until bananas are cooked and the meat is tender. If you are using regular bananas, add them 15-20 minutes before the meat is done.

Enjoy!

Le Quartier Français does it again

2011-04-20T07:20:00.000-07:00

Le Quartier Français has been included, for the 7^th consecutive year (and 8^thyear overall), in the S.Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants.

This year saw the Tasting Room, the only South African restaurant included in the 2011 Top 50 Restaurants, placed 36 overall and best restaurant in Africa & The Middle East.

Two other South African restaurants -Rust-en-Vrede and La Colombe – were recognized and included in the S.Pellegrino World's Top 51-100 Best Restaurants rankings; reaffirming our belief that South Africa, as a food destination, continues to impress on a global scale.

An extremely proud Susan Huxter, owner of Le Quartier Français, was delighted by her team’s success and aptly summed up what this achievement means:

“Seven consecutive years in the S.Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurant rankings is an unbelievable accomplishment. An award like this is not something that just happens, it really highlights the fact that Margot Janse, her team and our front of house staff are constantly working on The Tasting Room experience; it shows that this is a culinary space that never stagnates. Every year phenomenal new restaurants enter the global market resulting in a level of competition that is intense, and the pressure to wow with every bite is higher than it has ever been. Even with all this pressure Margot remains true to her love – South Africa – and her passion, food that delights but never at the expense of its childlike wonder.”

Le Quartier Français is a luxurious Relais & Châteaux country inn situated in the French Huguenot valley of Franschhoek, in the Cape Winelands. The Auberge offers eleven unique en-suite Auberge Rooms, three Grande Rooms, two Petite Garden Suites and two deluxe Auberge Suites (with splash pools), which open onto a rose-filled central courtyard and swimming pool. For the ultimate in luxury, there are four state-of-the-art suites, The Four Quarters, overlooking a private pool and sun-splashed deck.

Want to visit? Check out our delicious 'Gourmet South Africa Honeymoon' itinerary. It's not just for newlyweds!

Photos courtesy Le Quartier Français

Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge reopens!

2011-04-18T07:00:00.000-07:00

On Wednesday 13 April, His Excellency Dr Kenneth Kaunda visited Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge to officially re-open the property after an extensive refurbishment. The lodge was originally built in the 1970s for Dr Kaunda, the first Republican president of Zambia, as his private retreat in the South Luangwa National Park.

The opening ceremony was also attended by other dignitaries including former First Lady and now Deputy Minister of Tourism Vera Tembo, The Honourable Minister of Eastern Province Isaac Banda, His Royal Highness Chief Makumbi and Timothy Mushibwe, Chairman of the Zambian Tourism Board, along with members of the local media.

During his speech, former president Dr Kaunda thanked Sanctuary Retreats for the significant investment made in Zambia and the role they are playing in promoting tourism in the country. He emphasised that tourism is critical for the development of the local economy in Zambia as it provides employment for local people and assists in the fight against HIV and Aids.

His Excellency also had time for a game drive in the valley where he spotted plenty of wildlife including the notorious Chichele pride of lions on a buffalo kill with their three small cubs, before ending the day with celebratory sundowner drinks on the magnificent Chichele Hill.

Stay tuned to the blog as we will have a trip report in May that includes this newly reopened lodge!

Can Can Chicken

2011-04-15T07:15:00.000-07:00

This recipe comes from our friends at Zuka Lodge in the Phinda Private Game Reserve in South Africa. It's the perfect dinner to serve under the stars.

Ingredients
Serves 8

4 chickens
4 tbsp sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
4 tbsp olive oil
4 cans of your favorite beer
4 bay leaves
4 cinnamon sticks
20 ml coriander seeds
4 red chillies
4 tsp cumin seeds
4 tbsp Dijon mustard
4 tbsp Dukkah Spice Blend (you can find commercially prepared Dukkah in speciality stores. If you're unable to find any, stay tuned to a future blog for a Dukkah recipe).

Season chickens with salt, pepper and olive oil. Open cans of beer. Drink a mouthful of each (or I suppose you could pour out the equivalent!) and divide bay leaves, cinnamon, coriander, chillies and cumin between the 4 cans.

Place the cans on a baking try and 'sit' a chicken firmly on each can. Roast in a preheated 375 degree oven or grill for 35 minutes. Remove from oven and rub with mustard and Dukkah spice blend, then cook for 25 additional minutes at 325C.

Rest the chicken for 10 minutes. To serve, split the chickens in half, pile on a platter and sprinkle with more Dukkah spice.

Visit the boma in the photo yourself and try some of the cooking directly from Zuka Lodge. Give us a call to start planning your own customized South African safari!

Photo courtesy & Beyond Zuka Lodge, recipe adapted from A Kitchen Safari

March Mara Game Report - part 2

2011-04-13T09:00:00.000-07:00

Thanks to our partners at Governor's Camp in Masai Mara for this March game report.

Rhino lived up to their reputation and were ever elusive. Our drivers were patient and persistent however, and amazed many guests with their uncanny ability to almost sense where these prehistoric beasts were. Various individuals were seen but memorably, towards the middle of the month, three were found together - mother, calf and adult male. The adults were mating! Watch this space in fifteen month's time!

Towards the middle of the month we were treated with a douse of extremely welcome rain! The whole Mara seemed to take a deep breath and change into a new gear. The Mara River rose almost immediately and very soon a different pattern of animal movement became visible. Cheetahs, for which fairly large distance had to be travelled previously, were seen much closer to our camps. This is most likely because of there suddenly being a greater availability of food for herbivores and their subsequent decrease of movement. Less prey movement meant less large predator movement and thus a relatively safer environment for less robust predators such as cheetahs.

More water meant a better deal for elephants and indeed, a large number (in big groups as opposed to the smaller family groups of February) is still to be seen around the marshes. The African Green Heart tree is still bearing fruit and there is still a group of elephants that visit the camps regularly to take advantage of the shorter grass and Green Heart fruit. A little more work for our watchmen to keep us forewarned and a marvelous sight for all!

An interesting phenomenon brought about by the rain is the slow return of the Loita zebra to their residential area. As conditions improve the attraction of home draws them south and east of us. Many of them had been caught on the "wrong" side of the Mara River and, amazingly, a crossing of some seven hundred zebra and - fourteen giraffe - was seen on the 29th of March! Only one poor little zebra was caught by crocs.
Photos courtesy Samuel Kiplangat and Kate McLellan

Kathy Wojcik joins AAC

2011-04-12T06:45:00.000-07:00

Kathy Wojcik has joined the safari specialist staff at Africa Adventure Consultants. With 25 years of experience as a leisure and cruise travel consultant with American Express Travel, she brings to AAC a wealth of experience and passion for her work. She has traveled to 65 countries including Kenya, Tanzania, Botswana and Zimbabwe.

On her most recent safari, Kathy visited Amboseli, Lewa Conservancy and Masai Mara where she was thrilled to encounter many species of animals and birds—the big cats being a special favorite. She enjoyed her first camel ride at Lewa—she recommends wearing padded biking shorts if you have them!

Kathy also is an avid outdoorsperson, enjoying many of Colorado’s hiking trails, and loves tending to her organic flower and vegetable gardens. She welcomes your inquiries and will be happy to discuss your preferred travel destinations.

The Vision of Wangari Maathai - movie review

2011-04-11T06:45:00.000-07:00

This movie review was generously shared with us by the Sierra Club's Green Life Blog.

Taking Root: The Vision of Wangari Maathai (2008)

Limited screenings and available on DVD

Wangari Maathai has worked since the 1970s to promote democracy and women's rights in a culture that's traditionally repressed both. Her success is all the more remarkable when you consider that the groundswell of change and empowerment she inspired came about through such a seemingly simple act: planting trees.

Born in British-ruled Kenya, Maathai came to the U.S. as part of the Kennedy Airlift, the same program that brought Barack Obama’s father here for higher education. Some alchemy of new confidence and a perspective that offered possibilities beyond those she saw in her home country brought her back to Africa, where she began a tireless, often perilous, campaign to realize her dream of a greener and more just world.

Via interviews and historic footage, this film traces Maathai's path from her first activist ventures to the 2004 Nobel Peace Prize ceremonies, where she became the first African woman, and the first environmentalist, to be honored. Facing formidable opposition from government and societal institutions (she was repeatedly assaulted and jailed by government sympathizers, especially during the rule of Daniel arap Moi), she slowly built a coalition of mothers, wives, and sisters who came together to plant trees. In finding a livelihood and sense of purpose, the women of the Green Belt Movement were empowered to stand up to the forces that held them down.

Since its founding in 1977, the Green Belt Movement has planted more than 40 million trees and helped thousands of women earn a living while preserving their natural and cultural heritage. Maathai’s work stands as proof that justice and environmental health are inseparable parts of global well-being — and that one (indomitable) person can change the world.

Review by Zoë J. Sheldon
Reprinted with permission from Sierra Club

March Mara Game Report - part 1

2011-04-08T07:15:00.000-07:00

It's been a while since we've checked in with our friends at Governor's Camp in the Masai Mara. With that, here is the latest game report, straight from camp. This report focuses on many people's favorite - big cats.

March started in much the same way as February ended, with dry conditions, hot days and a great deal of animal movement. Vultures and other birds that use thermals seemed to be up and away much earlier, while there was a longer rest period in the middle of the day for the general game. Nonetheless, there was still much to see in our corner of the Mara.

The Paradise Pride of lions split up (although it is unlikely to be permanent) with members moving to either side of the Mara River. This split is probably because of the same animal movement as was seen the previous month and is typical of a pride needing to "broaden their horizons" in order to feed. With six big males to make their collective presence known, it is also no surprise that younger males and some females feel the pressure! This pride is still hunting hippo.

The Marsh Pride seemed settled in the Bila Shaka area and made good use of the Loita zebra and the resident warthogs as their prey. An interesting occurrence in March was the first sighting of four very young cubs. They belong to a female who is associated with the Marsh pride, but who hasn't yet been accepted by the other females. The cubs are believed to be her third litter.

In the walking area the Acacia Pride male lions were still to be seen earlier in the month enforcing their dominance. Towards the end of the month four lucky walkers were treated to a spectacle of no less than fourteen lions moving past them, the young ones gambling and tugging at each other tails while the adults stoically endured the rabble!

Leopard sightings were almost on a par with last month. Seen regularly was a young male near Private Camp. Of great interest was the sighting of a female with a three month old cub near Chemorta. What a privilege to be allowed a glimpse of a very secret and fiercely protected world!

Game report courtesy Governor's Camp, photos courtesy Katie McLellan and Samuel Kiplangat

2004 Guardian Peak Shiraz - wine review

2011-04-06T07:15:00.000-07:00

I opened this dust-covered bottle the other night to accompany thyme scented lamb burgers. Guardian Peak is a South African wine produced outside of Stellenbosch in the beautiful Cape Winelands. If you'd rather skip the review and head out on a wine and food adventure to the Cape Winelands instead, give us a call to plan your trip.

Alarmed after reading that it was meant to be consumed within 4 years, I nevertheless soldiered on. Wine almost always benefits from decanting, whether in a decanter or a large glass, and it did so in this case as well. The new-world style wine was perfect with the lamb. It had a faint smokiness reminiscent of Pinotage, but it was subtle rather than overwhelming. It was velvety smooth and had a soft finish with few to no tannins. It has a deep burgundy hue and was made for drinking with food. The winemakers suggested a Cape Malay curry, which would no doubt be delicious, but it wasn't on the menu in my kitchen that night.

If you have an '04 gathering dust in your basement (I expect the vintage to be unavailable for sale at this stage), I'd open it now. It's probably not going to improve further, but you're definitely not too late. Gesondheid!

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

East African Cuisine - Doro W'et recipe

2011-04-04T07:15:00.000-07:00

Doro W’et (Ethiopian Chicken Stew)

As promised, here is Kate Wheeler’s recipe for the Ethiopian dish Doro W’et using spices from the Savory Spice Shop. Get your own Berbere and more at their retail locations or their online store.

Ingredients:

• 1/3 cup ghee

• 2 medium yellow onions, chopped

• 3 large cloves garlic, minced

• ½ tsp. dried ground ginger

• ¼ cup Berbere Ethiopian Style Seasoning (see notes below)

• black pepper to taste

• 1/2 cup chicken stock

• 3/4 cup tomato sauce

• 2 lb chicken thighs, cubed

• 1/3 cup natural peanut butter

• 1 hard-boiled egg per person

Notes: This dish is VERY spicy. If you like it less spicy, just cut back on the Berbere. You can also make this dish with bone in chicken parts with the skin removed. Feel free to experiment with beef, tofu, or lamb. Any protein works!

Directions: In a large pot or Dutch oven, add clarified butter and sauté onions and garlic until translucent (about 5 minutes). Add ginger, Berbere, pepper, chicken stock, and tomato sauce and simmer for 15 minutes. Add chicken to pot, stirring to ensure pieces are fully coated, and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove a small amount of sauce into a small bowl and combine with peanut butter to thin it out. Then, return everything into the pot. Lightly score the eggs, so that the delicious juice can penetrate, and continue simmering until chicken is done (10-20 minutes depending how big your pieces are).

Serving Suggestions: With injera bread (or tortillas if injera cannot be found) and one egg per person.

Yields: 4-5 Servings If cooking isn't your thing, or you'd like to go straight to the source, give us a call and we'll plan a cultural adventure to Ethiopia for you!
Recipe and photo reprinted courtesy The Savory Spice Shop

East African Cuisine

2011-04-01T07:15:00.000-07:00

We are fortunate to have an amazing array of fantastic spices available to us through our local Savory Spice Shop here in Denver. They have enough spices to transport you around the globe when you visit their stores, or you can take a trip through their online collection to get what you need for your own culinary trip to East Africa.

The following article is by Kate Wheeler, the Lead Trainer for the Savory Spice Shop franchisees and who is a wealth of food and spice information. She shares some of this knowledge with us with this article reprint from Indulge in Denver magazine. Special thanks to the Savory Spice Shop for permission to reprint the article and recipe.

I love African cuisine. The complexities of this ancient cuisine come from the many worldly influences based on countries that have conquered the land and controlled the spice routes. Africa is a vast continent with varied flavors and ingredients; because of this we will have to focus on a specific region. In this article I would like to discuss East African foods with a main focus on the mysterious fare of Ethiopia.

Eastern Africa was one of the first Indian kingdoms, controlled for a thousand years resulting in much trade of spices and slaves. As a result, Indian spices like fenugreek, cumin, cardamom, and cloves are widely used. Cloves were brought to the island of Zanzibar where they flourished; which is not where the majority of the world’s supply comes from. Because Eastern Africa was located at the crossroads of the spice route, indentured servants were brought down from India to help build the railroads to help transport goods. These servants brought with them a unique style of preparing food, which has highly influenced modern East African cuisine.

In East African cuisine there is a large focus on chilies. Once they were brought over from the New World it was discovered that they grew especially well in the hot, blistering sun of Africa. There is an old Yoruba proverb that I read in A World of Curries, by Dave Dewitt and Arthur J. Pais, which reads, 'The man that eats no chile is weak; while chile is the staff of life.' Scorching hot capsicums are used to make Piri-Piri from Mozambique, a fiery spice mixture used as a main seasoning and a condiment. The same can be said for Berbere, a deeply flavorful and almost painfully hot blend from Ethiopia.

Traditional Ethiopian curries differ from Indian ones in the fact that they do not use turmeric (a rhizome that makes Indian curries yellow). A similarity between the two is the use of lentils as main and side dishes. One of my favorite traditional Ethiopian meals is a W’et (a curry and stew like concoction) but with fiery additions. My favorite is Doro W’et, a hot chicken stew served with hard boiled eggs. The eggs work to cool the dish down perfectly.

Ethiopian food is traditionally eaten with the right hand. Diners tear off pieces of injera (a sourdough crepe made from teff flour) and use it to pick up pieces of stew, lentils or vegetables. The food is served family style on one platter that is covered with a large piece of injera.

I hope I have inspired you to try this fun and incredibly flavorful food. If you would like to try Ethiopian food before attempting making it, visit an Ethiopian restaurant in your town. Because all the food is served on one platter, you can sneak some of your companion’s goodies and try a multitude of dishes. Have a culinary adventure!

Next week, we will feature Kate’s recipe for Doro W’et so that you may try your hand at this exotic and delicious dish in your own kitchen.

Article and Kate Wheeler photo reprinted courtesy Kate Wheeler and The Savory Spice shop, remaining photos courtesy Africa Adventure Consultants

'Beyond the Hour'

2011-03-30T07:15:00.000-07:00

Our partners at Sanctuary Retreats’ lodges and camps in Botswana, Zambia, Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania all eagerly supported Earth Hour on Saturday, 26 March between 8:30 and 9:30 local time, switching off generators and all the lights in and around the camps. In line with Sanctuary's theme this year the lodges and camps all managed to “Go Beyond the Hour"! Here, they share the efforts and celebration with us.

The staff at Sanctuary Olonana, our tented camp in the Masai Mara, spent Saturday afternoon at the nearby Enkereri Primary School where Julius, one of our staff members, gave a talk on sustainable practices. Sanctuary Olonana donated 50 trees to the cause and each of the students planted their own tree. All these trees were tagged with the students’ names and we believe this will create a sense of ownership and responsibility.

Later that evening, guests in camp celebrated Earth Hour with a candlelit dinner and even asked if the lights could stay off after 9:30 pm… Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Camp’s staff and guests also commemorated the day with a tree planting session. The camp staff then launched their ‘Conservation Club’ who will ensure that though various practices they not only conserve power but also come up with innovative practical ideas on environmental sustainability at the camp.

Hundreds of candles and lanterns were lit at all of our lodges and camps during dinner, with traditional song and dance performances by the staff providing the background music and entertainment for an unforgettable night under the African stars.

In Botswana Sanctuary Chobe Chilwero staff built a tree using recycled items and spelled “Earth Hour” with candles on the lawn in front of the lodge. At Sanctuary Sussi & Chuma in Zambia, the guides led a stargazing presentation well into the night - showcasing Sanctuary’s pledge to “Go Beyond the Hour”. Want to visit one of these great eco-lodges? Give us a call to plan your trip!
Photos courtesy Sanctuary Retreats

Kings Pool Camp Sightings - March

2011-03-28T07:00:00.000-07:00

Something interesting or exciting is literally always going on in Botswana; and most times our partners at Wilderness Safaris are there to see it. This game report comes from Kings Pool, a beautiful, luxurious camp in the Linyanti Reserve in Northern Botswana.

Kings Pool Camp has nine beautifully appointed tents of canvas and thatch. Each has a large bedroom area, lounge, private plunge pool and 'sala'. The spacious en-suite bathrooms are tiled with double showers and hand-basins - as well as an outdoor shower for those who wish to shower close to nature. The lounge, dining room and pub areas are on expansive raised decks. There is also a communal pool and an open-air 'kgotla' for dining under the stars. Game viewing at the camp is wonderful, as evidenced by the following sightings report.

As the sun slowly sets at the close of another great African afternoon, a range of vibrant colours reflect off the great Linyanti River as it leisurely meanders downstream. Just before the colours disappear completely, the tranquil water surface explodes, and the last afternoon light sparkles off of each water drop as a hippo breaks the surface in front to breath.

Hippo males have been fairly aggressive towards other males this month and two hippos have died from male territorial clashes. These carcasses have been located close to camp on two separate occasions, attracting numerous vultures and other carrion eating birds as well as hyaenas, jackals and on the second carcass - the lion.

Another recent addition to the Kings Pool package is a resident male lion. Guests have heard his majestic roar calling his lioness and cubs on most mornings and evenings. These contact calls have been so close on occasion that they can be heard above the cracking and rumbling of thunder and lightning during a typical summer storm. This male lion has also attracted the attention of another two males form the concession next door and they have been making brief visits to the Kings Pool area. The Kings Pool lioness and cubs have also been playing their part in entertaining our guests this month. The cubs always put on a good show as they pounce, run, stalk, bite, and play attack each other - fun, fun, fun!

Elephant are never far from the area, with breeding herds slowly moving through camp and the big males moving around without a care in the world. Our guests this month have had the pleasure of spending an afternoon on the Queen Silvia - the Kings Pool double-storey barge - and witnessing elephant crossing the great Linyanti River. From the upper deck of the Queen Silvia, looking down on a small herd of elephant swimming, playing, splashing and at some points fully submerged with only their trunks out of the water for air is truly a magnificent sighting - just add a gin and tonic and a beautiful sunset and life cannot get much better.

A trip to Kings Pool would not be complete without seeing a leopard or two. Our guides found male leopards, female leopards, climbing leopards, leopards with kills, shy leopards, sociable leopards, young leopards and old leopards during the course of the month.

Unusual and rare sightings this month have included roan antelope, cheetah, wild dog, Osprey and Bat Hawk. So all in all, quite an exciting wildlife month here at Kings Pool.

Guides - Khan, Diye, O.D. and Lemme

Wildlife photos courtesy O.D., camp photo courtesy Dana Allen - Wilderness Safaris

Shrimp Peri Peri

2011-03-25T07:15:00.000-07:00

Peri peri is a native African bird's eye chilli that grows wild in Malawi, Mozambique, Zimbabwe and South Africa. Peri peri means 'chili chili' in KiSwahili and saying it twice makes sense as it's one of the world's hottest chilis. It's terrific dried in spice blends (some commercial peri peri blends are available - Nando's is a favorite and comes in a variety of heat options) and also as a fresh sauce served with chicken or fish.

This recipe is fairly simple and showcases the chilies themselves. This recipe is adapted from Marcus Samuelsson; an Ethiopian born, Sweedish rasied, world renound chef. You can sample his creations yourself with his fantastic cookbooks (this comes from Discovery of a Continent), or visit one of his amazing restaurants in New York, Chicago, California or Sweeden to cut out the middleman.

Peri Peri
Makes 1 cup

8 red bird's-eye chilies, seeds and ribs removed to reduce heat, chopped
Juice of 3 lemons
2 tbsp chopped cilantro
1 tbsp chopped parsley
2 garlic cloves
1/2 c olive oil

Combine all incredients except for oil in a blender and puree until smooth. With the blender running, add the oil slowly and blend until well combined.

Store refrigerated for up to two weeks.

Peri Peri Shrimp
Serves 4 as a starter

12 jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/2 c plus 1 tbsp Peri Peri, divided
2 tbsp olive oil
1/2 tsp salt
2 limes

Toss the shrimp with 1/2 c of the peri peri in a large bowl and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

Heat oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add shrimp and cook for 2 minutes per side, or until opaque. Transfer to a plate and sprinkle with the salt. Squeeze one lime over the shrimp.

Serve atop hot, cooked rice or cous cous. Mix the additional 2 tbsp of peri peri throughout the cooked grain prior to topping with the shrimp. Garnish with quarters of the second lime.

Be warned - this is a very hot dish! A cold beer would go nicely alongside.

Owen & Mzee - The Language of Friendship - book review

2011-03-23T07:15:00.000-07:00

This wonderful, true story describes the unlikely friendship between a rescued, orphaned hippo and a 130-year-old tortoise living together in a wildlife sanctuary in Kenya. It's possible you've heard of this pair, as they made headlines around the world in 2004 when they first met. This children's book is full of charming photos and describes their first year or so living together.

Owen the hippo was only a baby when he was rescued from a coral reef at the mouth of the Sabaki River and brought to the sanctuary. At the time, Owen was only two feet tall (but about 600lbs!). He has thrived in the sanctuary through his friendship with Mzee (Swahili for 'wise old man'), and despite Owen growing much larger, Mzee the tortoise is most certainly still in charge.

The book is one of a series focusing on Owen and Mzee written by father and daughter team of Craig and Isabella Hatkoff in conjunction with the director of Owen and Mzee's care, Dr. Paula Kahumbu. It is a positive, uplifting story of friendship through adversity and is appropriate for all ages. If you'd like to visit Owen and Mzee at Haller Park in Malindi, Kenya - call us to plan your trip!

Tubu Tree Camp Sightings - March

2011-03-21T07:00:00.000-07:00

This game report is courtesy of our partners at Wilderness Safaris. We can never get enough reports on the big (and little) cats!

With anticipation growing daily we were finally shown the new kittens of Tubu Tree. Since the beginning of November, when the Jao Concession lion pride was last seen together, the daughter looked as if she was ready to give birth any day. She disappeared for a while only to be seen in December again - looking thinner and obviously lactating. Then she was seen in the daytime hunting, even hunting out front of Tubu Tree Camp on the floodplain. This got everyone excited and all decided to try and follow to get the answers to all the questions of how many cubs there were, where they are, male or female etc.

One of our questions is now answered as camp guide and guests recently investigated a Hooded Vulture sighting and found the mother feeding on a wildebeest. Having heard an unusual sound, they decided to sit and wait it out to see what would happen. Their patience was rewarded when over an hour later, just before full darkness, four little ones came out to join mother. What a sight - they were able to catch a couple of pictures and spend a little time with them before they went back into hiding.

Tubu Tree Camp is also known for leopards. Of course they were not to be outdone by the lions: our resident queen leopard, Boat Station Female was also seen lactating on the 23rd of November 2010. She also kept her cubs hidden for a while and then sightings started up again and tracks were seen of a little one with her, which just added to the anticipation for cubs.

Finally we had some sightings but with the bush being lush and thick it made it hard to follow. One morning drag marks were spotted going across the airstrip and into the bush. Just a few metres in, there she was with an impala kill and one little cub who was full energy and a little shy of its safari vehicle encounter.

This now leaves us with three young male lions just over a year old and four little lion cubs making a total of seven young lions running around, coupled with two one-and-a-half year old leopards and another young leopard cub. The questions is now how many kittens can Tubu Tree have? Never enough, it seems.

Observers: Justin Stevens, Jacky Collet-Stevens, Brooks Kamanakao
Photographers: Cathy Kays, Brooks Kamanakao

The Boy Next Door - book review

2011-03-18T07:15:00.000-07:00

The Boy Next Door is the debut novel from Irene Sabatini, though you would never know that this was her first book. She weaves a tale of two people whose lives are intertwined despite the political and racial difficulties they face in the fledgling nation of Zimbabwe. She no doubt draws from her childhood growing up in Zimbabwe to paint such a vivid picture of this fascinating country.

The story is told in the voice of Lindiwe, a teenager living in Bulawayo, Zimbabwe in the 1980's at the book's inception. She and Ian, a white neighbor a few years older than she, become friends after Ian is accused of a terrible crime. The author follows Lindiwe and Ian's lives as they grow apart and then back together over twenty years.

Ultimately this is a love story, but the environmental aspects of the book are equally intriguing. Between the challenges that Ian and Lindiwe face as a mixed race couple and the changing politics during the 80's and 90's in Zimbabwe, the reader will be engaged on many levels while enjoying this book.

Want to learn more about Zimbabwe and see what things look like now? We have a terrific trip called 'Essential Zimbabwe' that will fit the bill, or we can customize an adventure to suit your needs. Call us to plan your Zimbabwe exploration!

The Last Lions - movie review

2011-03-16T07:15:00.000-07:00

I'm just back from a screening of The Last Lions and I'm still breathless. The movie tells the story of a lioness and her cubs and their struggle to survive in the African bush. It also paints a picture of the need for conservation, as lion numbers have decreased from 450,000 just 50 years ago, to around 20,000 today. With the constant expansion of human settlements and encroachment on to once protected lands, lions are more threatened than ever before. The cinematography in the movie is absolutely stunning. The images have an almost still photo quality about them, but are brought to life in a way that keeps the viewer at the edge of their seat for the entire movie. From the quiet beauty of the Okavango Delta landscape, to the images of birds skimming the waters for fish, or capturing the erie nighttime fog surrounding an enormous herd of Cape Buffalo; this is National Geographic at its best. The story itself is more tense than I thought possible; over 90 minutes of intense action in the lives of this little lion family. This movie is not for the faint of heart, nor is it for young children or those sensitive to the occasional violence seen in nature. It is however for lovers of Africa, its wildlife and nature in general. It is typical of National Geographic and does not shy away from difficult images or an unhoped for result in nature, so be prepared. The other bit of magic worth mentioning is the sound. Sitting in the theatre (even one with a somewhat dated sound system) made me feel like I was in the bush. The morning sounds of African birds, the nighttime sounds of hippos and insects, buffalo marching through the tall grass...it's all there invading your senses and takes you straight to the African wilderness. Kudos to National Geographic and Dereck and Beverly Joubert for making a masterpiece. Feel free to share your thoughts on the film with us on Facebook or leave a comment below. Don't forget to watch the trailer; for every trailer viewing on YouTube, National Geographic will contribute $.10* (up to $100,000) to lion and big cat conservation in Botswana. You can also text LIONS to 50555 to donate $10. (msg & data rates may apply). Donations go to the National Geographic Big Cats Initiative. Want to visit the Okavango Delta? Call us to plan a trip to Duba Plains where the movie was filmed.

Photo - Beverly Joubert / National Geographic

A day in the life - Pafuri Camp

2011-03-14T07:00:00.000-07:00

We want to share this 'day in the life' from Sean Carter and our friends at Wilderness Safaris. Sounds like a great (and not atypical) day at Pafuri Camp in the Makuleke Concession in Kruger National Park, South Africa.

I was hosting six great guests who are all birders and therefore I knew the pressure was off about searching only for big game or the "Big Five." Our second evening together proved to be quite incredible.

We headed out on our afternoon drive along Luvuvhu West. Our plan was to drive to a recent elephant carcass which has been fascinating to view, as well as being a hive of activity. On the way there we bumped into a lone elephant bull, the first of what would turn out to be a very rewarding few hours. When we arrived at the carcass, as expected, there was an entourage of vultures (Lappet-faced, White-backed, White-headed and Hooded) and a number of hyaena picking the bones dry. The smell was quite unbearable and it wasn't long before everyone in the vehicle was ready to head off.

As we drove back towards camp we were called with the news that we had just driven past a leopard. Needless to say we turned around and headed back finding the camouflaged leopard lying flat in an appleleaf tree. She was extremely relaxed and we watched her from 30 metres away for about 45 minutes. She eventually stretched and gracefully climbed down the tree. She had been watching impalas in the distance and we followed her towards them. The impalas were quick to spot her and started panicking at the same time as a huge herd of buffalo appeared. All of this was taking place at the same time as the sun was setting over the Hutwini Mountains ahead.

We had just lost sight of the leopard when we heard a faint mumble behind us. Lo and behold there were two rhino making their way towards us. This was by far the best sighting I have had of rhino at Pafuri as they were in the open instead of making off into the distance which has been my usual experience.

At this point we chose to head back to camp, having had a fabulous evening, but on the way decided to pass the airstrip to see if could catch a glimpse of the male lion which had been spotted in the area that morning.

We did hear the lion calling, but unfortunately our luck had run out as our search proved hopeless. However, we did see a baby chameleon, a greater bushbaby, an African wild cat, two Barn Owls, an African Owl and two Pel's Fishing-Owls before getting into camp.

After a celebratory dinner I was heading to the staff village only to come across a lioness 20 metres from the boardwalk. Another incredible day in Africa!

Recipe: Senegalese Rice

2011-03-11T07:15:00.000-08:00

Today, we're going retro with our recipe. During a recent 'better books' sale at our local library, I picked up 'Recipes of All Nations', which was complied and edited by Countess Morphy back in 1935. It's a charming, dated book that is mostly focused on Europe, despite its more diverse sounding title. Way in the back, near page 800 or so, they have a small section on Africa. It's very interesting and includes dishes like 'Fricassee of Iguana' (which I'm hoping isn't on menus anymore!). I chose something more tame to share with you today: Senegalese Rice. This is (nearly) verbatim from the book:

SENEGALESE RICE is as popular a dish in Senegal as the couscous. It can be made with meat, chicken or fish. The pork, mutton or chicken is cut in somewhat large pieces, and the fish also. The pieces of meat or fish are first of all fried in oil with a chopped onion, seasoned with salt and pepper and, when well browned, they are covered with hot water and seasoned with chilli pepper or cayenne, cloves, and other spices. Then all kinds of vegetables are added, and always very small marrows and tomatoes. All this is simmered till tender-the meat, of course, takes longer than the fish. When done, the meat and vegetables are removed from the stock and kept hot. The rice-unpolished rice is used-is cooked in the stock, which should not only cover it but be quite two inches above the rice. This is simmered till the rice has absorbed all the stock and is quite dry and flaky. If the rice "catches" and is slightly burnt in the bottom of the pan the [locals] are delighted, as this is considered a relish. The rice when done is put into a large gourd with the meat or fish and the vegetables.

Bon appetit!

Note: 'marrows' refers to zucchini

Botswana Chitabe Lediba Camp Update

2011-03-09T07:00:00.000-08:00

From our partners at Wilderness Safaris comes this excellent game report from Chitabe Lediba.

Weather
The month of January has had some good rainfall and we've recorded 295mls, which in previous years would have constituted half our annual rainfall. We've also had some spectacular storms, as only Africa can produce, with laser-like lightning shows coupled with thunder that at times literally made the earth shake.

Landscape
The concession is alive with youngsters of all living creatures. Everywhere you look there is an enormous variety of birds - especially waterbirds - and animals and the flora is looking beautifully lush and green. It truly has become a paradise.

Wildlife
The wildlife sightings have been spectacular as usual, even with the rain. Chitabe can proudly announce a few new family members in our various groups of predators. The collared cheetah was found and to the surprise of everyone she proudly paraded her four new gorgeous cubs. However, it does appear that towards the end of January, she may have lost one of the cubs as we only spotted three little faces on the last few occasions that we have seen them. Mortality rates among cheetah cubs is high, so we do keep fingers crossed that the mother's good parenting skills will enable the remaining three to survive.

Our resident leopard are also sporting and nursing new offspring, together with our two small prides of lion. The Chitabe pack of wild dog have been seen only a couple of times during the month, which is normal as this is the time of year that they traverse their home ranges. Numbers fluctuate between 24 and 26 dogs, but we are pretty sure that the pack is still at full strength with a total compliment of 26 members.

Love seems to be in the air as our guests and guides spotted both leopard and lion mating. We hope therefore that we can announce some new arrivals in the near future.

All the general game including impala, giraffe and zebra are also in abundance and all proudly showing off their young. It is such a treat to watch these young animals running and playing with their herd mates, so full of energy and excitement.

Birding
Birding has been absolutely amazing. The summer migrants that visit us at this time of year are still keeping the camp and concession entertained by their beautiful song and chatter. Thanks to the rainfall all the floodplains and depressions have filled up, attracting a huge variety of hunters and waders, congregating together as friends.

Camp News
During the last two weeks of January all the old rooms at Chitabe Lediba were dismantled and removed and the sites have been prepared for new structures. In addition to all new guest rooms, Chitabe Lediba will also be replacing the swimming pool and the decking surrounding the pool as well as putting in a new kitchen, laundry and a couple of storerooms.

Photographs courtesy Bill and Barton Barker; Sondra Lee and Debra

The Last Lions - part 2

2011-03-07T07:00:00.000-08:00

We've written about the new movie The Last Lions before. We want to keep your attention focused on this special film in hopes that you will get out to see it when it's available in your city, as it is likely to be a limited engagement.

In order for The Last Lions to play in more theaters, National Geographic and the filmmakers need YOUR support! Call your local theaters and ask them to book it. Then chat it up with friends, family, local community groups and get them to go. The better the film does, the more theaters it will show in. The more people that see it, the more people will understand what is required for these majestic creatures to survive.

"The Last Lions," is a spectacular feature documentary with breathtaking cinematography from National Geographic (and narrated by Jeremy Irons) about a wild lion and her cubs in Botswana. Check out the trailer here.

Here's where it will open this coming Friday:

Scottsdale, AZ Camelview 5
Berkeley, CA Shattuck 10
Irvine, CA Westpark 8
La Jolla, CA La Jolla Village
Sacramento, CA Tower Theater
San Diego, CA Hillcrest 5
San Francisco, CA Pleasant Hill 21
San Francisco, CA San Rafael Regency 6
San Jose, CA Santana Row
Denver, CO Esquire
Wilmington, DE Theater N (Ends March 13)
Lake Park, FL Mos-Art Theater (Ends March 17)
Sarasota, FL Burns Court
Atlanta, GA Tara Cinemas
Chicago, IL Pipers Alley
Baltimore, MD The Charles Theater
Detroit, MI Maple Art 3
Minneapolis, MN Uptown
St Louis., MO Plaza Frontenac 7
Charlotte, NC Regal Cinemas Manor Twin
Brooklyn, NY Bam Rose
White Plains, NY Cinema 100 Quad
Portland, OR Fox Tower Stadium 10
Dallas, TX Angelika Film Center 8
Plano, TX Angelika Film Center & Cafe
Seattle, WA Harvard Exit

For a complete listing of theatres and release dates, check here.

We will be visiting Denver's Esquire theatre to see the film; we'll have a review next week, but we have no doubt it will be fantastic! Afterward, we'll plan to watch this Q&A with the filmmakers, Dereck and Beverly Joubert.

Photo courtesy Gretchen Healey

Botswana Savuti Camp Update

2011-03-04T07:15:00.000-08:00

From our friends at Wilderness Safaris comes this exciting update from Savuti Camp in Botswana.

The first three weeks of February were unseasonably dry and hardly any rain fell at all during this period. Some rains and cooler weather returned toward the end of February, however due to the results of the first three weeks the roads becoming quite dry, and many of the seasonal pans becoming quite shallow and muddy. Elephant viewing was good through the month as a consequence, and at times elephant densities were similar to what we see in the dry season. Some herds were close to camp, but most were seen along the Linyanti River.

We enjoyed some good sightings of all the major carnivores, with the single male cheetah that frequents the area showing up twice, once on the airfield and once near Dish Pan. He appears to be doing well despite the loss of his coalition partner some time ago.

There were a few lion sightings that took place. Most were of the lioness known as the Savuti Female and her two sub-adult male offspring. For February they seemed to be spending most of their time to the west of Savuti, and we found them eating a kudu quite close to Zibadianja Lagoon. We are hoping they will cross the river and move a little closer to their old haunts around Savuti in the months ahead. The Linyanti Pride was also seen on a few occasions, usually to the north of camp.

The Linyanti wild dog pack put in some good showings for us too. All four pups are still alive, and the pack is maintaining its size of 11 animals in total. They were finding it a little harder to hunt than in the earlier months of the summer, when baby impala were easy pickings. They caught a baby kudu close to the Linyanti early in the month that we were able to see. Late in the month they moved east and out of our game drive area.

Spotted hyaena sightings remain quite consistent, especially in the area along the Linyanti.

Undoubtedly the star of our month in terms of the carnivores was the DumaTau male leopard. He was seen a number of times, two of these occasions found him mating with females. In another incident we watched him attack an adult female warthog. As he was trying to subdue the warthog, her two adult companions attacked the leopard, one from each side, butting him with their tusks in his side. He let go of his victim, but after they had all fled, managed to follow the wounded warthog and finish her off. Aside from a bit of a limp, he appears to have come through the warthog attack in one piece and was seen again a few days later again hunting warthogs. He obviously has a taste for them despite their dangerous defences.

The Savute Channel itself is maintaining quite a high level. On some days there are hippo in front of camp, and waterlilies are growing along the channel in profusion. Carmine Bee-eaters added colour to the grassy edges of the channel.

Photographs courtesy Anna Butterfield and Grant Atkinson

Book Review - The Elephant Whisperer

2011-03-02T07:15:00.000-08:00

The Elephant Whisperer is about a conservationist in South Africa who takes in a group of unwanted elephants on his Zululand game reserve. While the title is a bit trite, the story itself certainly isn't.

Lawrence Anthony is approached by the Elephant Managers and Owners Association about a 'troublesome' group of elephants in Mpumalanga, and is as asked by EMOA to take the animals in. This is ostensably because Anthony has a way with animals (and his own game reserve). Despite major reservations, he does so; as his acceptance of the elephants is their only chance. They will otherwise be destroyed. Predictably, it changes his life.

The book is the ensuing story of Anthony's 'way' with animals. He works to habituate the elephants to human presence and to correct their 'troublesome' behavior, he and his staff protect them from poachers, and eventually they introduce the elephant family to guests to help maintain the upkeep of Thula Thula, Anthony's game reserve. There are highlights and heart-wrenching moments, and overall it's a very satisfying read.

Care to visit Thula Thula and these very special animals? Give us a call!

Cover image courtesy Amazon.com

Mahale Mountains National Park - Part 1

2011-02-28T07:15:00.000-08:00

Mahale Mountains National Park in western Tanzania consistently ranks as one of the favorite places to visit in Africa amongst the staff here at Africa Adventure Consultants. It is without a doubt one of the most beautiful. This hidden gem is tucked away on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, its crystal clear waters reflecting the mountain range that starts just beyond the beach.

The park is best known for its chimpanzee trekking. It's a stone's throw from Gombe where Jane Goodall did her pioneering research, however it is 30 times larger than tiny Gombe. The chimpanzees are well habituated to human visitors, though with the size of the park you might sometimes have to do some serious hiking before finding them.

At the tail end of my trip to East Africa in December, I was lucky to spend four nights at Greystoke Mahale, which is now on my 'favorites' list, too. It's not an easy place to get to. After about 4 hours flying time from Arusha (depending on number of stops and routing), you'll reach Lake Tanganyika. From there, you'll board a dhow for the 90 minute boat ride to the camp, which on a calm day is a relaxing and visually stunning experience.

During my stay, there were only six total guests at Greystoke. We had varying fitness levels, which came into play when chimpanzee trekking. We were greeted at the airstrip by our guide Kakae, who accompanied us to camp. We had flown through some storm clouds en route, but the sun was out when we landed, and the waters were extremely calm. Lucky for me, as I don't have the strongest 'sea legs'. A multi-course lunch was served on the boat, complete with cold beverages.

Greystoke is set on a sandy beach and looks like a dream camp on a fantasy island. Thatched roof wooden bandas are exotic looking, but perfect for this remote paradise. With only six very private bandas, it feels like the most exclusive of retreats. The bandas as very well appointed with a four poster bed, a porch, a vanity and closet area, and a running water bathroom in the back. As an added bonus, there's a lounge upstairs (and the stairs are pretty unique!).

The bar area is tucked away in vegetation on a rocky outcropping; perfect for watching the spectacular sunsets over the lake. The food and service are the icing on the cake. More on that later! I would not recommend this property for anyone that might have trouble getting around, as it requires navigating sandy beaches and narrow stairs both day and night. Additionally, chimp trekking does require a moderate level of fitness, and can be strenuous, depending on where the chimps are located on the day you are trekking.

As our boat came in to shore, we were greeted by a large number of the staff and made to feel instantly welcome. After we were oriented to the camp's workings, our first afternoon was all relaxation. We had a swim in the placid waters of Lake Tanganyika (the staff will tell you when and where it is safe to swim) and enjoyed thumbing through the primate books in the library overlooking the shores. Dinner was a communal affair and they accommodated my dietary requests, which meant I got fish...from the lake...yum!!

Next up: chimpanzee trekking

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

Events in South Africa - March 2011

2011-02-25T07:15:00.000-08:00

EVENTS & FESTIVALS : South Africa, March 2011

Cape Town

Mummenschanz

This extraordinary Swiss theatre troupe, are masters of make-believe and illusion. By using everyday objects and materials, such as cardboard boxes, rolls of toilet paper, refuse bags, etc., they create ingenious costumes and masks, and portray everyday situations. Mummenschanz`s quirky humour and imaginative visual shows are appealing to audiences of all ages and cultures. Baxter Theatre

1 to 13 March 2011

A Handful of Keys

Roelof Colyn and Jonathan Roxmouth at two grand pianos, give a dazzling display of pianistic virtuosity and hilarious impersonation. Music that ranges from the great classic masters Bach and Beethoven, through the kings of soul Ray Charles and Fat Waller and via the queens of showbiz and pop, Elton John, Freddy Mercury and Liberace.Theatre on the Bay.

2 February to 12 March 2011

Andre Rieu Arena Tour

Having topped the tour rankings with his sold out SA Tour last year, the Dutch violinist and conductor will bring another spectacular grand-scale production to our shores featuring his Johann Strauss Orchestra, choir and soloists, plus a number of surprise special guest performances. Held at Grand Arena at Grand West.

11 to 13 March 2011

Cape Argus Cycle Tour

The Cape Argus Pick ‘n Pay Cycle Tour is the largest timed cycling event in the world. Attracting in excess of 35 000 cyclists from around the globe each year. Based in Cape Town, the Cycle Tour represents 109 km of some of the most scenic spots in the world.

13 March 2011

The Cape Town Carnival

The primary objective of the festival is to bring together the diverse people of the City of Cape Town. An annual theme will be interpreted through a variety of dance styles, carnival songs, and festive floats. One of the main judging criteria will be based on the ability to portray the mash-ups of the different cultures and elements.

19 March 2011

Cirque de Soleil Saltimbanco

The critically-celebrated international entertainment group Cirque du Soleil will perform for the first time ever in South Africa with its vibrant signature production Saltimbanco. Features breathtaking acrobatics. Full of colour, amusement and amazement, a fun show for the whole family. Grand Arena, Grand West

23 March to 3 April 2011

Poetry in Motion - Ballet

highlights the beauty of ballet, interwoven with music and the spoken word - a production that transports the viewer into the realm of fantasy in movement. The work features a series of dance vignettes to enhance and showcase the Poetry that is ballet! Artscape Opera House.

26 March to 6 April 2011-02-02

Cape Town International Jazz Festival

2 Day Jazz Festival, 40 international and national artists and 5 stages. Cape Town International Convention Centre

25 to 26 March 2011

Johannesburg

Strictly Tap Dance Fever

Direct from its smash UK tour, the adrenalin-driven show takes the audience on a whistle stop roller-coaster ride of the greatest tap dance moments in show business history. Featuring fantastic musical classics mashed with modern day beat. The Mandela at Joburg Theatre

15 February to 6 March 2011

Hobby-X Johannesburg

Leading exhibition of materials, equipment and supplies used for a wide variety of hobbies and crafts. From DIY-home décor to creative hobbies, from adventure and outdoor to fine art, fashion and scholastic. With theatres of activity where you can learn new decorating tricks; demonstrations of exciting new techniques. The Coca Cola Dome, Randburg.

3 to 6 March 2011

Tina Turner – Simply the Best

Rebecca O`Connor first came to international attention as the winner of the prestigious European impersonation competition Stars in their Eyes in 2002. The Tina Turner Tribute Show, SIMPLY THE BEST, toured all of Europe to much success. The Mandela at Joburg Theatre

10 to 20 March 2011

Dreamgirls – The Musical

Full of onstage joy and backstage drama, Dreamgirls is an international award winning smash hit Broadway musical featuring a multi-talented all-South African cast that brings to life the brilliant energy, history and magic that grew out of the music of the 1960`s and 70`s. Teatro at Montecasino

11March to 17 April 2011

EVITA The Musical

The rise and fall of Argentina`s first lady, Eva Peron, is played out in this hit musical. With lyrics by Tim Rice and music by Andrew Lloyd Webber, and featuring the hit song "Don`t Cry for Me Argentina". Pieter Toerien Main Theatre

25 February to 27 March 2011

Streets of Gold – The Musical

An original South African musical, tells a rousing story of the fight for freedom and love in a world choked by corruption and greed. Award winning playwright Alan Swerdlow delivers a provocative and delightful script, fusing elements of film noir, animation, high fashion and gold jewellery design. The Lyric at Gold Reef City Casino

25 March to 3 April 2011

Gardenex Green Living Fair

The biggest gardening and floriculture exhibition in the Southern Hemisphere. The show now incorporating pets, patio decor, pools and outdoor leisure activities.

26 to 28 March 2011

Durban

High Notes and Highlights

Rory Rootenberg, much loved by Durban audiences, returns for two weekends of charm, wit and beautiful music. Celebrating his friendship with his long time Durban pianist Anne Duthie, Rory will thrill with renditions from some of the great musicals, and also some past highlights. Rhumbelow Theatre

11 to 20 March 2011

Trends and Tastes 2011

This year Decorex SA in collaboration with the KSA Kitchen and Bathroom Fair are proud to announce the launch of an all new décor and lifestyle exhibition, Trends and Tastes 2011. Durban Exhibition Centre.

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

18 to 21 March 2011

Gorilla trekking

2011-02-23T06:30:00.000-08:00

Have you been gorilla trekking yet? As they say, no time better than the present. However the present is selling out fast! Our latest report from Rwanda has July and August nearly sold out for gorilla permits, and June is on track to sell out as well. If you want to share in this special natural wonder this year, the time to book is now.

We have both private and group departures for Rwanda gorilla trekking. If you have more time, check out our Rwanda and Uganda Gorillas 2011 trip. If you want to really experience all that Rwanda has to offer (including chimpanzee trekking!), our Unforgettable Rwanda will fit the bill.

We also have myriad of trips to Uganda, including our Ultimate Uganda Safari, which gives you a gorilla trekking experience as well as highlights such as Murchison Falls National Park, where The African Queen was filmed. There are thirteen primate species in Uganda and you'll have the chance to see plenty of them on this trip!

Don't forget you can check out You Tube for some of our gorilla footage. You can also read some first hand trip reports here and here.

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

Book review - Cutting for Stone

2011-02-21T07:15:00.000-08:00

A few of us in the office recently read 'Cutting for Stone' by Abraham Verghese. The book is a generational epic that starts with a young nurse in Yemen in 1947 and follows her all-to-short life and that of her orphaned twin sons in Ethiopia and America. The story focuses predominantly on the life of one of the twins and how losing both his mother and father in his childhood impacted and shaped the course of his life.

It took a few pages to capture my attention, but once it did it was difficult to put down. It gives the reader a vivid picture of Addis Ababa; the sights and sounds are brought alive throughout the story. It is the perfect backdrop to this engaging story and sets the stage for many of its most dramatic moments.

With love, betrayal and healing, it's a novel that will hold the reader in its grip and its effect will linger well after the last page.

Book image courtesy Amazon.com

The Last Lions

2011-02-18T07:15:00.000-08:00

An amazing nature film about wild lions is coming to the Boulder International Film Festival (BIFF), which is taking place Feb 17-20, 2011, and we invite you all to attend.

"The Last Lions," is a spectacular feature documentary with breathtaking cinematography from National Geographic (and narrated by Jeremy Irons) about a wild lion and her cubs in Botswana. The film will play on Saturday, February 19, 2011 at 10:00 a.m. at the Boulder Theater. Check out the trailer here. You can also read a synopsis of the film and buy tickets online here. "The Last Lions" is a Call 2 Action film, meaning there will be a short Q & A session after the movie.

Tickets are available via the Boulder Theater box office, and seating is limited. Tickets are $12/adults, $10/students/seniors, and special pricing is available for groups of 10 or more. Contact the Boulder Theater box office for group pricing information.

Also of note about BIFF this year: Oliver Stone and James Franco will be there!

Info courtesy Boulder International Film Festival. Photo courtesy Gretchen Healey

Zambia from the air

2011-02-16T07:15:00.000-08:00

Zambia is a very special place. The birthplace of the walking safari is heaving with wildlife but not with people. It's off the beaten track. It has the famous (Zambezi River), the infamous (Victoria Falls) and the off-the-map (Kafue, North and South Luangwa).

We have a special opportunity for you to take to the skies in style. Gaze out over the seemingly never-ending scenic splendor and fly eye-to-eye with eagles while watching herds of wildlife and flocks of endangered Wattled and Crowned Cranes far below.

Africa Adventure Consultants and Wilderness Safaris are thrilled to offer an exceptional hot air ballooning experience in the Kafue National Park - one of Zambia’s prime and largest wildlife destinations.

Stay for three nights in one of three stunning camps on the Busanga Plains – Shumba, Kapinga or Busanga Bush Camps – and be treated to this breathtaking experience FREE OF CHARGE - which concludes with a champagne breakfast under a grove of fig trees! Call us to plan your customized Zambian adventure!

*Offer valid from August 1 to October 31, 2011

Photos courtesy Wilderness Safaris and Gretchen Healey

Pafuri Camp Update - Male Lion Conflict

2011-02-14T07:30:00.000-08:00

We wanted to share a very exciting sighting from our partners at Wilderness Safaris and Pafuri Camp in South Africa with you.

Pafuri Camp guests enjoyed an amazing experience recently. It was a battle on a grand scale between two male lions. One of the males is the six-year-old adult, a territorial male who has dominated the area for the past three years. He is also the father of the younger male (about three years old) who is his oldest offspring and the first cub sired during his 'reign'.

The dispute was over one of the females that was on heat, and ended with the sub-adult male inflicting some intensive blows and ultimately getting the prize of the female - this time. If these two males stay together they could become an impressive coalition and very good for the lion dynamics of the area as a whole.

It is not unknown for fathers and sons to form coalitions although it by no means the norm and we anticipate that this will not be the last conflict of this nature that we observe between the two.

Some other good news on the lion side is that the sister of this younger male had her first litter in August 2010 and has two cubs of her own. The cubs are alive and healthy, both doing very well. This female and her cubs are seen quite often now - these lions and the sub-adult male already mentioned are frequently seen quite close to Pafuri Camp itself, this point forming the centre of the range given that the cubs do not range as widely as the adults are able to.

There was also another pride of females seen two weeks ago with two very small cubs, so that's three more lions on the concession at the moment! Overall, some incredible lion viewing opportunities at Pafuri Camp right now.

Want to visit Pafuri? Call us and we will customize a Southern Africa safari for you!

Photos and sighting courtesy Sean Carter and Wilderness Safaris

Curried Corn

2011-02-11T07:30:00.000-08:00

Corn has been adopted by Africa and become a staple all over the continent. This easy side dish combines Africa's love of corn with East Africa's love of spices. It's especially great because it can be made with fresh or frozen corn.

Curried Corn
Adapted from The Africa Cookbook: Tastes of a Continent
by Jessica B. Harr
Serves 6-8

1 tbsp butter
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 tsp hot curry powder
5 cups corn kernels, fresh or defrosted if frozen
1/2 tsp cornstarch
1 cup coconut milk
2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped
(could sub canned, diced tomatoes if out of season)
salt and pepper to taste

Melt butter in a heavy saucepan over medium heat until foaming. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are very lightly browned. Add curry powder, stirring to ensure onions and garlic are well coated. Add corn and continue cooking. Combine cornstarch and coconut milk in a small bowl and add to the saucepan along with the remaining ingredients, stirring well to distribute the liquid evenly. Lower heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for 7 minutes, or until the coconut milk is almost all absorbed.

Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge Opens

2011-02-09T07:30:00.000-08:00

Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge has opened and they are welcoming their first guests. In celebration of the opening of the iconic hilltop game lodge in Zambia’s South Luangwa, we are pleased to offer three nights for the price of two. This historic property is open year round. In addition, the lodge accepts children of all ages – making it the ideal destination for the family holiday of a lifetime! It has one interconnecting suite and two triple rooms that are perfect for families. This special opening offer is valid for travel from 1 February–15 June 2011 and for new bookings from 15 January 2011. Call us to book now.

Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge was originally built for Kenneth Kaunda, the former Zambian president, in the 1970s and the original colonial style has been retained in the furnishings. A long veranda stretches outside the dining room, from which guests are afforded views down the valley to the Luangwa itself. When possible, dinner is served outside. On cooler nights, roaring fires take the chill out of the air. The roar of lions or the saw of leopards can often be heard from the wooded valleys that surround the lodge.

Each of the ten elegant suites at Sanctuary Chichele comprise of four-poster beds, air conditioning, and private veranda. In keeping with the rest of Chichele, the suites are decorated in an understated colonial style with a fully appointed en-suite bathroom. Large French windows offer a light, airy feel to the suites, opening onto your private terraces -the ideal vantage point to relax and enjoy the wildlife.

Game viewing at South Luangwa is considered to be some of the best in the world. It is a notably good place to see leopards, particularly in the dry season when they have less cover in which to hide. From Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge, guests have the particular privilege of being able to go on night game drives when it is possible to see all sorts of animals that are seldom seen by day - like leopard, hyena and bush baby. Plains game, such as antelope and zebra, are not scared by the lights so guests are able to get very close to animals for fabulous photographs. The early evening is the best possible time to see diurnal animals and a little later is the best time for nocturnal wildlife, so a game drive combined with sundowners gives guests the best of both worlds.

There are also wonderful opportunities in the area for walking safaris. Guided walks are conducted by a professional guide and an armed parks scout. It is on foot that Sanctuary’s guides can show travellers some of the most fascinating signs of the bush, many of which are hard to spot from a vehicle. Out in the bush with an armed game scout and a guide, travellers can follow animal tracks along sandy paths. It’s not just the big animals that are fascinating – termites, dung beetles and chameleons all have their stories to tell too. The park hosts many herds of the endemic Thornicroft giraffe which can always be found in the prolific Mopane woodland on the valley floor.

Call us so we may work with you to craft a customized Zambian adventure that includes a visit to Chichele Presidential Lodge and all the wonders that Zambia has to offer.

Off the Beaten Path: Mfangano Island Camp - community development

2011-02-07T07:00:00.000-08:00

We also wanted to share the 'other' side of Mfangano Island Camp from our friends at Governor's; what they do for the environment and the local community. Read on...

Community Development

The local communities and especially the kids on Mfangano Island have proved extremely bubbly and welcoming to guests on cultural walks. Their charm has worked wonders, with many guests generously donating to various charitable projects. A big thanks must go out to Erk Thomsen from Germany who is has invested so generously that he is now famous on the island!

Currently we have 3 great community projects on the go:

Solar Electricity

Our neighbouring village of Nyakweri now boasts a good primary school with over 300 pupils largely down to the Camp and our charitable guests. In addition to 4 classrooms, our latest project which is currently underway is to introduce solar powered lighting and electricity to the school. This is a first of a kind project in the area and should help to allow students requiring extra tuition to do so at night without the expense incurred by their parents currently of fueling gas lights. Teachers will also be able to use radio and other multimedia to help in everyday classes, broadening the perspective of this isolated community.

Nyakweri Clinic

Late 2010 we managed to secure financing to build a government operated clinic in Nyakweri Village. The construction for this is commencing in the week ahead. The new clinic will provide nursing and drug prescription to this community, who have so far had unfortunate deaths with critically ill or injured individuals which would otherwise be preventable with easy medical access.

TIPS School (www.tipsinternational.wordpress.com)

Erk Thomsen was so taken by this small (74 kids) community run school that he decided to become its patron. The school (in Yokia) provides very affordable and valuable education for Kids aged 2yrs - 14yrs and helps to freely educate orphaned children. The school is also developing a programme to help economically disadvantaged widows to become self-sufficient.

A feeding programme started in October 2010 where kids get fed a free lunch every day, where previously many children just went hungry. Last week 100 school bags and uniforms were distributed to the pupils for the first time. Currently we are deciding on a contractor to build a classroom for the year 5's. We are also securing a supply of books and syllabuses for the kids and teachers as well as other teaching materials and even additional teachers. The kids have also been given a football to kick about! To witness the turnaround in progress is astonishing. Where less than a year ago there were nothing but a few syllabuses shared between teachers for 7 classes and not a dictionary in the entire school! The classrooms are nothing but tin shacks with rubble floors. 30 new desks have also been supplied. It really is a miracle, and we hope to see it progress into a definitive success story in community development and co-operation!

Photos courtesy Governor's Camp

Off the Beaten Path: Mfangano Island Camp - birds, otters & monkeys

2011-02-04T07:30:00.000-08:00

From our friends at Governor's Camps, here is the continued story of Mfangano Island Camp, a little slice of paradise on Lake Victoria.

Birds:

December highlights included frequent sightings of a transient guest in camp believed to be a 'Black-Chested Snake Eagle'; which provided fluttering gems of excitement, being seen swooping a few metres above ground level in the Northern side of the camp for a three week period. The resident African Pied Wagtail duo successfully hatched their second chick in 2010 on the 18th of December in their favourite nesting site, our 120 HP boat Atutu. We hope to accommodate them again in the New Year! The small migrant population of Open-Billed Storks' also migrated to Mfangano in late December. As ever the egg-eating snakes on the island have been taking full advantage of breeding birds and just yesterday a 5ft Green Mamba was seen snaking its way in to a weaver bird colony at an elevated residence of more than seven meters.

Otters & Monkeys:

Native Vervet Monkeys have tripled their numbers in the last year and don't seem to be stopping there. This is giving the farming community a real headache as they battle to protect their farms from sunrise to sunset during the upcoming growing season. Within Camp approximately 75% of all adult females are carrying young infants. These mothers troop around in a crèche with the month old babies clinging closely to their bellies. Whilst the last batch of 4/5 month old youngsters are now fully independent and foraging on their own and bounding between trees with boundless energy. Surprisingly, a large male monkey in the 30+ strong troop in the northern side of the camp has been seen carrying an infant around in maternal fashion. This is not something we have seen before and we assume the mother has died and the baby is cared for by this relative and suckled by nursing female(s) of the family.

Otters have been seen in abundance over the last few months with all guests being fortunate enough to see these graceful creatures. We were even fortunate enough to witness a loved up couple mating and courting in the shallows on a stretch of heavily bouldered shoreline with a backdrop of steep sloped and unblemished forest on the eastern side of Wakula Village.

Coming up: Community Development at Mfangano Island

Photos courtesy Kaila Millar

Off the Beaten Path: Mfangano Island Camp

2011-02-02T07:15:00.000-08:00

An ideal retreat from the hustle and bustle of modern life, Mfangano Island Camp is an oasis of tranquility, lapped by the waters of Lake Victoria and shaded by giant fig trees. Lawns hug the waterline, flowerbeds and rock gardens surround the camp. Enormous boulders sit at the water’s edge, a perch for cormorants or giant monitor lizards to sun themselves. Each room features a private veranda and sun beds. The food is as fresh as can be, fished from the lake (hopefully by you!) or picked fresh from the island’s vegetable gardens and orchards. We are featuring excerpts from 'Life on the Lakes' from our friends at the Governor's Camp collection this week in the Safari Journal Blog.

Camp & Island Life

The Drought:

Mfangano Island experienced a very long dry season as from July 2010 up until the end of December. The anticipated rains of October never materialised and the island was only saved by a relatively small spattering of rainfall from the end of December to early January, where mists shrouded the horizons. Thankfully the Island's dependence on just one yearly crop and fishing meant that the Suba were not crippled by this localised drought, instead the residents are now cultivating the land ready for the rainy season (mid March - May).

Fishing:

January has seen bountiful catches of 'Omena' (the bitter East African whitebait), which is a Luo and Suba tribe staple. This is a good sign for the Lake's well being, as are the daily Otter sightings which have provided an entertaining sight for all our lucky guests!

Late 2010 saw good fishing from the Camp. We managed to record a 39kg Perch in October by Mr. Tim Mountfort from South Africa. In November Mr. John Delgado from the States caught a 20kg fish which also made it to our board of fame. The largest caught in December was 9kgs caught by Mr. Andrews from California. We look forward to some more good fishing in 2011 and anticipate getting more names on the record board!

Next post: birds, otters and monkeys

Photos courtesy Kaila Millar

Ethiopia: Kent's trip report #4 - Gondar

2011-01-31T07:15:00.000-08:00

The drive from Bahir Dar to Gondar is a pleasant three hour excursion north along Lake Tana through farmland, mountains and plains. As with many Ethiopian towns, Gondar is very hilly, making it a hiker's delight and a challenge for those who are less mobile.

Since we arrived on the eve of the famous Timkat Festival, the streets were filled with Christian faithful from all over the region, here to celebrate Ethiopian Epiphany which commemorates the baptism of Christ according to the singular Ethiopian Orthodox Church. In Ethiopia, holidays are different (Christmas is January 8), as is the year (7 years behind the Western calendar) and even the time is told differently (6 pm our time equals noon Ethiopia time).

Gondar is worth a visit anytime to see 17th century castles and churches built by King Fasilidas and his progeny. It also makes for a great base from which to explore the beautiful Simien Mountains, home to endemic species such as Galada baboons, Walia Ibex and Simien red fox. We were here for Timkats, which exceeded my expectations in terms of pageantry, attendance and exuberance. Part religious service, part parade, and part party, it was a celebration in every sense of the word.

Really the festival spans several days. People attending the festival dress in sparkling whites and the priests in brilliant reds, greens, purples and golds. The festival begins with parades of arcs or "holy af holies," without which no Ethiopian church is consecrated. These are mini-replicas of the original Arc of the Covenant which, according to Ethiopian tradition, holds Moses's original 10 commandments and is said to have been brought my Menalik I from Jerusalem after he took it from King Solomon's temple. (Ethiopians believe Menelik I was the son of King Solomon's affair withe the Queen of Sheba who they believe was Ethiopian, though many scholars are not convinced). The arcs are brought from 40-plus regional churches to be blessed with holy water from King Fasilidas's pool.

The parade of arcs is led by bat wielding boys whose enthusiastic chants and jumps kept more than one onlooker far on the sidelines. Next come guards or escorts in red and and attendants in white. Sometimes floats are involved and there is lots of singing and chanting, drumming and horn blowing. Grass and heavy carpets are laid down before the procession of priests carrying the arcs, wrapped in cloth, on their heads, which are shaded by colorful umbrellas. This goes on for hours until all the arcs reach the walled pool. That night there was much singing, dancing and even fireworks in town while the priests spent the night praying by the pool.

The next morning, the faithful and curious trekked back to the pool for the service, some of which was translated into English for the foreign visitors in attendance. The pool is in an enclosed walled compound big enough for the clergy, some dignitaries, and paying tourists. The majority of people gather around the stone walls. The excitement was too much for some locals who created a mob scene as they pushed toward the walls, trapping the ones in front and causing the police to wield their batons with some force. Inside after much praying and chanting the water is blessed by Ethiopia's archbishop and all hells breaks loose as young men jump into the holy water and people use spray guns to hose the pilgrims. The clergy then parade the arcs back out and the people spend the rest of the day celebrating, some of them into the night.

In retrospect, Timkats was one of the most unique and impressive (and frightening) cultural events I've ever seen. It is certainly a sight to be seen for culture lovers, but people who don't like unruly crowds, noise and walking should stay away. There are also annoyances. I lost a bit of cash to pick pockets, which is not uncommon amongst such crowds. Hotel space is limited and reservations are not always honored, even when they have been paid in full.

The best hotel in town is the Taye, followed by the Goha, and the Qura and others like it. Next stop; Kelly accompanies the group to visit the Southern tribes.

Photos courtesy Kent Redding

Ethiopia: Kent's trip report #3 - Bahir Dar

2011-01-28T07:30:00.000-08:00

From Lalibela, Bahir Dar is just 20 minutes by plane. A very pleasant town of 250,000 people, Bahir Dar sits at the south end of Lake Tana. Tana is Ethiopia's largest lake and the source of the Blue Nile, which meets the White Nile in Khartoum and then flows to Cairo, Alexandria and the Mediterranean Sea.

In Bahir Dar, we spent the morning visiting the Ura Kindnemihret monastery, one of many that are located on islands and peninsulas on Lake Tana. Getting there by boat makes for a pleasant excursion, especially if you get to see some reed canoes, white pelicans and more. The monasteries feature some vivid and colorful paintings illustrating scenes from the bible.

After a tasty lunch we headed to the Blue Nile Falls. Much of the river's water is diverted to the hydroelectric damm so in the dry season the falls are not impressive. Even so, there were plenty of interesting sights to enjoy, making for a fun afternoon.

That night, we enjoyed authentic Ethiopian food in the stylish dining room of our hotel, Kariftu Spa and Resort. Set right on Lake Tana, the hotel is beautiful with huge rooms with wrap-around balconies. The hotel also has a large pool and wide deck with lake views. Guests also get one massage, pedicure or manicure (per room) at the hotel's spa.

Other hotel choices include Summerland, Abyiminch, Tana Hotel, Tana Resort, a Sheraton property.

Photo, left: Amhara man plays the misigo, a one stringed instrument made of goat skin and horse hair.

Photos courtesy Kent Redding

Ethiopia - Kent's trip report #2 - Lalibela

2011-01-26T07:15:00.000-08:00

Lalibela is a must-see on any first visit to Ethiopia, and that's where we headed on the second day of our tour. About an hour's flight from Addis Ababa (if you book the direct flight and twice that with stops), it's a town of approximately 25,000 people who live perched on gorges, bluffs and steep hills in a mountainous and arid region northeast of the capital city.

The main reason to visit are the impressive rock-hewn churches, carved out of stone below ground level in the 12th century. For me, these churches (especially Bet Giyorgis) are spectacular, especially when one considers how and why they were built; the answers to which are clouded in legend as are so many things in Ethiopia. The churches are connected by a series of tunnels, bridges and bumpy paths, which can pose issues for those who are less mobile. The churches are hosted and guarded by priests who dutifully pose for pictures holding their impressive ceremonial crosses -replicas of which are available in a variety of materials and prices in the town's numerous curio shops.

Other fun excursions include seeing a traditional coffee ceremony and navigating the bustling Saturday market. The market appeared to draw every single resident, young and old, from a 30-mile radius. My favorite expedition was a trek up Asheton Maryam, a stunning 3,600-meter peak above Lalibela. The trek can be done on foot, but using mules speeds up the trip and adds a lot of flavor, especially when novice riders are involved. Note - mule riders still have to walk up and down the steep parts! There are some very steep and slippery segments, so it's not for everyone.

Lalibela is a poor town in an isolated region, so infrastructure is basic but improving. The best hotels are the Mountain View and Tukul, followed by LAL, Jerusalem and the rather tired Roha. All are simple but clean with good service and decent food.

Next stop; Bahar Dar, Lake Tana and the Blue Nile.

Photos courtesy Kent Redding

Katavi NP activities - Gretchen's trip report #7

2011-01-24T07:15:00.000-08:00

This blissfully big park has abundant game which you can see in a vehicle or on foot. If you're intrepid you can also fly camp for an additional fee (weather dependent!). This involves sleeping away from camp on a bedroll with a mosquito net; nothing much between you and the stars. You'll have all the comforts of camp - the great cuisine, hot bucket showers, the works; but you'll get a deeper and more intimate bush experience. It's not for the faint of heart, but it's very memorable.

I did both traditional safari as well as a walking safari. Walking in Katavi is not on par with Zambia; I did not see nearly as many animals, but I enjoyed it just the same. My guide Phillip was incredibly knowledgable and made the walk very interesting. We saw elephants, antelope (there's lots of Topi in Katavi), giraffe and birds. I also got some tracking tips, and learned where not to stand when near a warthog den!

Because I visited in the green season (about three weeks into the rains), the game was more dispersed than in the dry season. Katavi is most famous for its abundant crocs and hippos. When its dry they can be seen in the thousands. Green season or no, I saw lots of hippos and crocs, as well as more giraffes than I have ever seen anywhere, antelopes, monkeys, buffaloes, and more birds than I can recall. I also saw a few unusual looking animals, such as a broken-necked giraffe and a hippo with his teeth growing more like warthog tusks (both pictured here). Unusual and interesting.

The magic of the green season (other than really attractive pricing) is that the animals are very relaxed. There is food and water for all. I saw monkeys using a young tree as a see-saw to play, hippos each with their own private pools (some on their backs while lolling in the mud), giraffe drinking all over the place (it's the riskiest spot for them to be in), and nobody looked hungry.

Elephants were in camp every day, and something was always nearby at night. My most memorable evening was spent by the fire after dinner. The chorus started with the hippos making their usual nighttime noise followed by a hyena 'whoo-ooo'-ing. The sing-song capped off with lions roaring as they came up the road. All in all, a pretty satisfying end to my day!

As I departed, the elephants came to see me off. Katavi is a camp I'm going to get back to as soon as I can; it's a really special place.

Don't forget you can see more video of our travels on our You Tube channel!

Next: Mahale Mountains National Park and chimpanzees!

Photos and video courtesy Gretchen Healey

African Drumsticks

2011-01-21T07:14:00.000-08:00

Today's recipe doesn't come directly from the African kitchen, but that doesn't make it any less delicious. Famous British chef Nigella Lawson gives a global twist to much of her delicious cuisine and this recipe is no different. The drumstick recipe comes from a South African friend of hers and Nigella modified it to suit her tastes. I've added some additional options based on my experience cooking similar South African dishes as well. There would have been a photograph of the chicken to accompany the recipe, but we ate it all before the camera came out. Oops!

African Drumsticks

Adapted from Kitchen by Nigella Lawson

Serves 4-8 depending on age and appetite

80ml Worcestershitre sauce

4 tbsp tomato ketchup

2 tsp English mustard powder, or to taste

1 tsp ground ginger

1-2 tbsp apricot jam, depending on your preference for sweetness (or chutney is also excellent here - not only apricot, but any fruity chutney)

1 onion, peeled and finely chopped

8 chicken drumsticks, preferably organic (can substitute bone-in, skin-on thighs or a mixture of the two)

1 tbsp garlic oil (olive oil is also fine)

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees celcius. Mix the Worcestershire sauce, tomato ketchup, mustard powder, ground ginger, apricot jam and chopped ionion in a shalow dish.

Dunk the drumsticks in the marinade to coat them all over. (If it helps, you could at this stage leave them to marinate, covered, in the fridge overnight.) Put the oil into a smallish roasting tin or ovenproof dish, in which the drumsticks will fit snugly, and tip the tin about so that the oil more or less covers the base. Arrange the drumsticks in the tin and pour over them any remaining marinade.

Cook for 45 minutes to 1 hour, basting once or twice: (no worries if you forget!) the deeper the dish, the longer the drumsticks will take to colour and cook through.

Serve with a spiced cous-cous sprinkled with almonds or toasted pine nuts and lots of cilantro.

Ethiopia: Kent's trip report #1 - Addis Ababa

2011-01-19T07:15:00.000-08:00

My trip to Ethiopia started with a pleasant flight direct from Washington D.C.'s Dulles International Airport to Bole International Airport in Addis Ababa. With their new specially outfitted 777s, Ethiopian Airlines can now fly non-stop. That makes the trip just 12 hours, much faster than with any other airline. The planes are modern and comfortably outfitted, the service is good and the fares are reasonable. Ethiopian Airlines also has an extensive flight network within Africa, making it a reasonable choice for people traveling to other countries in East and Southern Africa.

Ethiopia has had its share of negative press over the years--famine, war, etc. which has led many people to imagine it to be a dry, barren wasteland. Nothing could be further from the truth, however. Much of the country sits on a high plateau which is incredibly fertile. Grains, vegetables, herbs and more are grown in abundance. Ethiopia is purported to be the birthplace of coffee and they make it thick and strong and unbelievably tasty. The people are extremely friendly and crime is relatively rare, even in Addis which has 3-5 million people.

Most visitors to Ethiopia spend one ore two nights in Addis. Undoubtedly the best hotel in town is the Sheraton. It is very luxurious, has incredible gardens and a huge, beautiful pool. Next up is the Hilton, which is frankly looking tired, but has a lively atmosphere. The Intercontinental is a great choice and I really like the Jupiter, which currently has Jazz nights on Thursdays (awesome) and Soul night on Saturdays in the bar.

With one day in Addis you can see most of the major sites. I enjoyed both the National and Ethnological museums, and a trip up Entoto Hill afforded great views of the city. The "palace" and church near the summit are mildly interesting. Back in town, the Mercato is purportedly Africa's largest open air market and is very lively and for me, a little claustrophobic. It employs somewhere near 13,000 people. As with any crowded city market, you're best to keep an eye on your wallet. The Holy Trinity Church is worth a visit if only to see the tomb of Haile Selassie.

Next stop: Lalibela

Hotel photo courtesy Sheraton Addis

Katavi National Park - Gretchen's Trip Report #6

2011-01-17T07:00:00.000-08:00

Katavi National Park is remote - really remote. From Arusha, it takes about 4 hours, plus a refueling stop in Tabora, to get there. My plane was nearly private - just one other passenger who was on her way to Mahale Mountains National Park (my next stop after Katavi). She was from Italy and was nearly as excited as I was to be headed to some of the most remote areas in Tanzania.

After finally landing at the airstrip near park headquarters, I was met by my guide Phillip. The airstrip close to Chada Katavi is being resurfaced and should be done next season (around July 2011) if all goes to plan. This meant a long-ish game drive back to camp, but also allowed me to see more of the park than I might have otherwise.

Phillip had the vehicle kitted out with all the comforts including fly whisks for the tsetses and cold beverages. There is a bit of mopane woodland to traverse through, which is where the blasted tsetses can be found, but the fly whisks really are handy. It's also interesting scenery; not a lot of animals, but a few interesting things like technicolor lizards and bird life, as well as some human settlements which are very basic. The human activity included charcoal kilns and small trading centers, as well as agriculture.

We stopped for a bush picnic on the edge of the plain en route. It was incredibly peaceful watching giraffe and topi in the distance and gave me a chance to chat further with my guide. It turns out that for the duration of my stay, there were only a total of four guests in Tanzania's third largest park! We did manage to see the other guests once during a game drive, but that was it for seeing any other humans outside of camp!

We got back to camp in the afternoon with time for a cool drink, a shower and a short nap. I was warmly greeted by Mark and Kristen the camp managers. My tent was large and comfortable with a very big bed, a veranda overlooking the plain and a basic but very functional bathroom setup.

Katavi is rustic - no doubt about it, but it is a glimpse back to the glory days of safari. A guest will want for nothing here; the food and service are wonderful. You have power, a library full of interesting books, a campfire to while away the evenings, walking and driving safaris - it's a terrific package. But if you want an ultra luxury experience (or a shower that lasts more than a few minutes), this is not the camp for you.

Bathrooms are, as I said, perfectly functional. They recently installed chemical toilets (to replace long drop toilets), and hot water is delivered in the mornings, as well as waiting for you after game drives and in the evenings at bedtime. Hot (bucket) showers are al fresco and are quite nice to get the day's dust off. If you wish, you can arrange for extra water for a slightly longer shower.

The camp is spread out and each tent feels very private. The maximum number of guests is 12 (six total tents), so you really get an intimate bush experience when you stay here.

There are some other guests that frequent the camp on a nearly daily basis - elephants. A large elephant family has found that they enjoy visiting the camp and its tamarind trees. It is a quiet oasis and they have made it part of their routine. The first time they visited during my stay, I was walking out from my tent and Phillip called out that I should stay put. I did as he said and then watched wide-eyed as the elephants materialized out of the woods and moved towards the library tent. They had no interest in me; I got to enjoy an uninterrupted and magical 10 minutes watching them move through camp.

Once they were past the library, I moved to the library and got another long view of the eles - this time from the comfort of a couch! As I said, this was a daily occurrence and often from different venues. It was one of the most special experiences I had in Katavi.

Next: Game activities in Katavi & nighttime lions!

Langebaan Cinnamon Pumpkin

2011-01-14T07:00:00.000-08:00

There is no end to the variety of African recipes for pumpkin. This traditional Afrikaans recipe is a delicious side dish or dessert. It comes from the beautiful west coast of South Africa. You can visit Langebaan in combination with the Cedarberg and Namaqualand on a customized safari and get well off the beaten track. If you wish to serve the pumpkin as a sweet end to the meal rather than a side dish, omit the butter and salt, then top with fresh whipped cream.

Langebaan Cinnamon Pumpkin
Serves 2
from The South African Illustrated Cookbook
by Lehla Eldridge

500g pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled and chopped
1tbsp sugar
1/2tbsp ground cinnamon
1tsp butter
pinch of salt (optional)
or 1Tblsp cream or whipped cream (omit butter and salt)

Place pumpkin in a saucepan and partially cover with water. Add the sugar and cinnamon and boil until the pumpkin is soft. Drain, then mash the pumpkin with butter. Add salt if necessary.

Serve this dish with any main course (it's great with bobotie!), or as a pudding in small ramkins with a dollop of cream and a dusting of cinnamon. It multiplies easily.

Photo courtesy Gretchen Healey

Introduction to Chada Katavi

2011-01-12T07:00:00.000-08:00

Before the next installment of Gretchen's trip reports, here is an introduction to the next destination that will be covered. In the (slightly edited/condensed) words of the camp managers themselves (thank you Mark and Kristen!).

It's a good day in Chada Katavi, slightly overcast, winds out of some direction or other, chance of rain a strong maybe, chances of sunshine about the same, and chances of us winning a writing award, nil. From today onward, "Chada" will be how we refer to the camp where we live and host safari guests, and "Katavi" will mean we're talking about the national park in which Chada camp is nestled.

Simply stated: when in Chada, if you walk for days in any direction, seeing another human is not an expected outcome. What you will see are animals. Animals by the savanna-load, so to speak. Herds of buffalo, pods of hippo, prides of lions, flocks of vultures, journeys of giraffe, melodies of larks, blah blah blah. Some people spend hours trying to figure out what a bunch of zebras should be called. We call them a beautiful gathering of wild, striped horses, faster than most other animals out here, except some types of antelope and, of course, the cheetah!

We spend our working hours being civilized, studying wildife behaviour, patterns, seasonal migrations...
We have dinner parties with our guests in a big tent, with some rather fine dining, if we do say so ourselves...
We take people on professionally guided walks and drives and our local guides' knowledge is staggering...
Sometimes our guests do some staggering of their own...

Tomorrow we are expecting 6 guests, that means our camp will be exactly half full. Yes, we are tiny. Not only are we tiny, but the camp is too. 6 big tents on decks with outdoor showers. The tents are, I just told you, big, so there is space inside for beds, tables, old fashoned wardrobes...it's really not too bad.

Only the insane drive here, so no offense to those few of you who have driven in this season, but the way to get here is to fly. Even by air, people step off the plane, turn in a bewildered circle, and then sprint to the nearest bush to 'check the tires'. These little planes don't have toilets and the flight is long. The drive here takes 4 days from Arusha. 4 days! Having worked in southern Sudan, Kenya, Burundi and Uganda before, we really thought we were living in the middle of nowhere. Maybe we were, but if that was the middle of nowhere, this is another planet.

I can attest to the remoteness, the animals, the dining, the guides' knowledge...and more. Look to my next trip report for all of the details on this amazing spot.

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

Kigali to Arusha - Gretchen's trip report #5

2011-01-10T08:00:00.000-08:00

After reluctantly leaving Clouds Lodge, I headed back to Kigali and an afternoon city tour. Kigali is a vibrant, clean and organized city. Taking a half day city tour allowed me to see and learn more about it.

By far, the most moving part of the city tour was my visit to the Genocide Memorial. Rwanda experienced a tragic genocide in 1994 and the Kigali Genocide Memorial is one of many memorials throughout the country that stand as a reminder of the genocide with the intent of preventing it from ever happening again. While touring the memorial is definitely a sobering experience, it provides a deep understanding of what happened in 1994, as well as giving insight into other genocides around the world. If you are in Rwanda, you will not know the country as well without this learning experience.

I once again stayed at the Kigali Serena for my final night in Rwanda. See my earlier trip blog for details on this excellent property. After a good meal and a great, but all-to-short sleep I was off to the airport for my very early flight to Arusha. As I was on a charter flight, we had a few stops along the way, including in Mwanza on Lake Victoria so that we could clear customs.

Arusha is a bustling city and the starting point for most safari activities in Tanzania. There are myriad lodging options from basic to luxurious and most travelers going on safari will spend at least one night here. This trip I stayed at Rivertrees Country Inn in Usa River, about 25 minutes outside of Arusha. If you are joining us on Africaid's Tanzania safari this May, you will have a chance to stay at this delightful property.

I stayed in a cottage on the river. All of the rooms are very nicely appointed, however the two cottages have added privacy and nice touches such as day beds, outdoor showers and pretty patios facing the river. The property rambles along the riverside and is a quiet respite from the city. There is a pool, a bar and restaurant as well as common areas with books, games, cozy gathering spots, and if you must - Internet access. The guest computer has a nice view of Kilimanjaro on a clear day. I'd recommend getting up early to see it before it clouds over!

The food was abundant and excellent, and the staff and owner were very welcoming. Most especially, I needed to recharge a bit after the excitement of the prior week. Rivertrees allowed me to do just that - a quiet spot with lots of nooks to relax in; both indoors and out.

While in town, I also visited the newly reopend Mt. Meru Hotel. It had only been open for two weeks when I visited, however with the polished service and the professionalism of the staff, you would never know it had just opened!

The hotel is elegant and luxurious. There are a variety of room types for the needs of every traveler, and all are very well appointed. Things like flat screen TV's are standard, and little luxuries like upgraded toiletries, robes and slippers are found throughout. The views are excellent; the front of the hotel faces Mt. Meru, while the back overlooks the amazing pool facilities and a beautiful golf course.

There are two restaurants as well as a coffee shop, and a sleek cigar and Cognac lounge. They claim to have the largest selection of wines, cognacs and spirits in East Africa. You'll have to visit to find out for yourself!

Mt. Meru hotel also has a world class spa with 'guaranteed relaxation'. If you need to wrap up a bit of business or check in on what's going on at home, they have state-of-the-art conferencing facilities. Internet speed and availability appears to be above average here.

I would recommend this hotel for travelers that want a bit of luxury before heading off to or coming back from the bush. It would work well for couples as well as families. If you're staying elsewhere in Arusha and just need a cool down, they also have pool access available for a fee.

Next: On safari in Katavi National Park

Photos courtesy Gretchen Healey

African stir-fry

2011-01-07T09:15:00.000-08:00

Thanks to our partners at Mateya Safari Lodge in Madikwe Game Reserve for this recipe. This is a malaria-free area, so its perfect if you wish to experience safari without fussing with malarial prophylactics. Call us if you'd like to plan a visit and try some of their kudu stir fry after a great day of game viewing!

Traditional Kudu stir-fry

Ingredients

500g boned kudu chuck, cut into strips (may substitute beef or bison)
75ml cooking oil
2 large onions, sliced
1 green bell pepper, seeded and julienned
3 carrots, julienned
200g spinach, shredded
300g sliced mushrooms
1 small cauliflower separated into florets
410g tinned pineapple pieces, drained, juice reserved for sauce
salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

•Heat oil in a wok or heavy frying pan. Brown meat in hot oil.
•Add veggies in the order given above. Fry for a few minutes, stirring constantly.
•Mix sauce ingredients of your choice and add to meat.
•Simmer for 2 minutes or until sauce thickens.
•Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately with cooked rice.

Bon appetit!

Photo courtesy Mateya Safari Lodge - Werner Dippenaar

Bwindi gorilla trekking - Nkuringo Group - Gretchen's Trip Report #4

2011-01-05T07:00:00.000-08:00

After our community visit, my guide and I headed off across southwestern Uganda to the Nkuringo area of Bwindi. The drive is breathtaking. After getting back to the 'main' road, we took that road essentially to its end. The hills became steeper, and if possible they seemed greener. That may have been the storm clouds making the scenery looking dramatic!

We drove through the town of Kisoro, arriving just after what must have been a very substantial rain storm. The streets were running with water - knee deep in some places. People were picking their way through town trying to stay somewhat dry while balancing goods on their bicycles or their heads. It was a chaotic, colorful scene.

We had another hour and a half drive from Kisoro to our lodge. The area we drove through seemed less developed and more remote than anything we had experienced so far. There was less agricultural development due to the steepness of the landscape, and the hills were packed ever more tightly together.

We finally arrived at Clouds Lodge around dusk. This beautiful lodge is perched at the very top of one of Bwindi's hills, surrounded by forest. It is community owned, and employs its staff from that same community. The clouds were in fact present, swirling just below us on the mountainside. I was warmly welcomed by the staff and escorted into the lodge for a quick briefing. This had to go in the books as the best briefing ever, as it was accompanied by a complimentary hand and arm massage from the local spa staff.

The main lodge is airy and light. It has several fireplaces for cool nights and is full of couches that just beg to be curled up on with a book or a drink. The bar is at one end, while the elegant dining room is at the other. It has a veranda around 2 sides, with fantastic views of Bwindi and the Virungas beyond. Every day is a different view depending on how clear it is or where the clouds have landed, but every day is beautiful.

My room, or perhaps I should call it a villa, was just down the hill from the main lodge. It had a porch with another tremendous view and was surrounded by flowers and trees, with its own little garden in the front. Once inside, I found an enormous sitting room with those same welcoming couches and my own fireplace. The bedroom was as light and airy as the sitting room with an enormous bed, and access to the same pass through fireplace. The bathroom was large and luxurious with a shower.

Meals at clouds are fantastic. In the mornings, I enjoyed custom made smoothies with mint and ginger, muesli and a cooked breakfast (essential when trekking!). Lunches were hearty but not too heavy; things like salads and fishcakes. Dinners were sublime; three course affairs with expertly executed dishes with surprisingly creative sauces and desserts that I couldn't resist.

My second day of trekking could not have been more different from the first. The ranger station is only a few minutes walk from the lodge, and is much smaller than the Buhoma area. There is only one group to trek to see from here, with a total of two groups in the Nkuringo area. There is a small village and shop area outside the ranger station.

Nearly all of the trekkers wisely hired porters this time (see why that is important here). We began our trek from the ranger station. Trekking from Clouds to the gorillas is downhill, which is unique. It also means your return trek is uphill! The trail is very good for most of the way, and you don't reach the forest until you hit the valley floor and pass by the tracker's camp - about an hour into the hike. We once again lucked out with the weather and needed sunscreen rather than rain gear for our hike.

Once in the forest, it was only a matter of minutes before we were told to leave our gear with the porters and to take our cameras and follow the guides to the Nkuringo family group. We excitedly crept through the forest to the group and suddenly found ourselves nearly in the middle of it. They were feeding on the ground and in trees; there were babies, adolescents, black and silverbacks all within sight.

The gorillas were obviously comfortable with our presence and continued their feeding without interruption. One blackback came and sat directly in front of our group. He had a small wound on his left hip which he almost seemed to be showing us. Our guide confirmed that this family does in fact show the rangers and trackers any injuries they have in the manner we were witnessing. After he gave us a good, long look at his wound, the gorilla moved on to feed some more.

We enjoyed what felt like quite a long time of uninterrupted viewing of the gorillas as they moved around the clearing feeding, as well as the fun of two juvenile gorillas playing up in the trees. The group finally started to move off and as we still had time left in our hour we were able to follow them further into the forest for a bit more observation. At one stage, the silverback slapped the ground two times not far in front of me; I could feel it through my feet! This behaviour is considered to be one that prevents conflict between and among groups.

The final and most exciting part of the day for me was when one of the blackbacks (named Karibu - thank you in Swahili) sat nearly at my feet to feed. Because of the dense vegetation, I was unable to back away, so the guide advised me to stay put. The gorilla sat peacefully feeding for a few minutes before moving on his way, continuing to follow his family. Our time was finally up, and we left the Nkuringo family with regret, but also with joy at the privilege of spending time with one of the planet's most amazing creatures.

I mentioned before that it was difficult to put the experience of observing mountain gorillas in the wild into adequate words, and I feel I've had the same struggle in this blog. What I can say is that it is one of the most profound nature experiences that I have ever had, and is certainly amongst my favorite and most memorable experiences I have had in Africa.

When we returned to the lodge, I enjoyed an afternoon massage which worked the fatigue out of my muscles and refreshed me immensely. The spa at clouds is simple, but the treatments are wonderful. I spent the rest of the afternoon in the lodge reading and talking with other guests. During our sundowner drinks, we were treated to a performance by a local youth community group. They sang and danced for the guests, incorporating the importance of gorillas to the community into their performance. (see performance video on our You Tube channel!)

We have several itineraries available that offer gorilla trekking in both Rwanda and Uganda. If you wish to stay at Clouds Lodge (and I can't recommend it highly enough!), we can create a customized itinerary for you. Just give us a call!

Next: Arusha and the newly opened Mt. Meru Hotel!

First photo courtesy Clouds Lodge. Remaining photos and video Gretchen Healey